I am trying to find out f I can get more fuel economy with these two features off but I am also wondering if this does something else that can cause my car to over heat. As far as engine performance wise. I have a 2005 c6 LS2. Any info would be appreciated.

 

You want to leave AH and TC on for street use. Not going to hurt fuel economy. If your car is overheating have a mechanic check it out. Your driving style is a big factor in your fuel economy.

 

What overheating temperatures are you experiencing? What are your oil temps and water temps? Are these temperatures seen driving on the street, highway or road course?

 

well it was a theory I was working on... I will say that I was thinking that the AH and TC on reduced power to an extend... I know that if you leave both of them on and if you're in 6th and start to speed up (within 6th) the car stops me at 120mph. With it off... it keeps going.
I guess what I was thinking is that with AH and TC on the timing is less and with it off there is more timing causing my engine to overheat...However I drove it yesterday with them on and the car still over heated... I think its the thermostat as I just checked and the fans came on and into High speed around 220-230*. I just went to buy coolant and a new factory thermostat (as I keep reading that 160*'s are not that good for stock LSX engines) and waiting for the car to cool down so I can change them.

It seems like there is alot of pressure built up from the hoses all around execpt for the one directly from the stat to the radiator. The high pressure causes coolant to leak from any point possible.

 

I didnt get to check the oil temps... the coolant temp would be 196-198 on the highway... on the streets jumped as high as 230* last night... and it was maybe 60* outside.

I want to say its the stat or a clog somewhere... I am just debating if I should do a coolant flush (the high pressure ones at like dealers or like a Mobil 1) or if I should just do the stat and new coolant?

 

T/C & A/H have nothing to do with fuel or timing unless you exceed the traction limits of your tires. With them both off there is no interference. There shouldn't be any "speed limit" of 120MPH regardless of the T/C or A/H settings.

Unless of course you replaced tires with non standard sizes, then the computer gets confused since it doesn't know the true speed of the wheels.

 

Sounds like the stat, change it, replace antifreeze and yu should be good.

 

Can you smell coolant while at idle? I had the high temp problem but I could smell the coolant. Turns out my water pump went bad at 21k miles. RE: 120 mph limit. I was able to get to 165 quick on a "closed course" with both TC and AH on. shouldn't impact top end at all.

 

Sounds like air in the cooling system. Lack of coolant will cause overheating, that leads to boil over, that leads to more air in the system, and on and on......

Be sure to purge the air and check for a correct ratio of coolant / water.

 

Yesterday on the highway I was getting 189* oil temp and coolant was 198* then I may it home and it was over heating... I realized that coolant is leaking on the belt and the belt is throwing it everywhere... I checked all the clamps and they all seem fine! I dont get it... Could it be the Water pump leaking? there is the main haose coming from the top of the resevoir to the pump (i think ) that it seems like coolant is leaking from there... Is there a way to find the leak without tearing then entire cooling system apart? I just installed new coolant and a new thermostat... so its not that... and Mobil 1 pressurized it for free... (i could not make the car burp after an hour so I drove it to mobil 1), after that it was low temps till I went to the gym and after the gym coolant was all over the parking lot. This is fustrating me!!!

 

you can smell the coolant because its leaking from somewhere... I will say that I believe that if the cooling system has air then boiling it... it could force the coolant from somewhere... that is my theory... then the last one would be the water pump. but I need to fix this asap as i am using this as my daily driver.

 

It's the water pump. Especially now that it's throwing water off the belt. Before, it was a slow leak allowing the water level to drop and causing your overheating. Now, you have a serious leak that's coming out fast enough you shouldn't be driving very far -- like just to a shop to replace the pump if it's close. The OEM pumps often times only make it 20k+ miles like mine did.

--Dan

 

Thats what I was thinking too... Cause most water pumps have a weep hole where it will start to slightly leak and then the major problem occurs right. The other thing is that if the pump is not working that is why it get hot at idle and not on the highway as on the highway the air is cooling the radiator enough correct?
Dang... how much is a Water pump for the LS2?

 

It's likely that the pump is still working but it's leaking so you end up without enough fluid and with air in the system. Mine was replaced under warrantee so I don't know what it will cost but MSRP on the OEM pump is $380 plus labor but it can be found for $247. If you get under the front of the motor you should be able to see where it's leaking off the bottom of the pump. It's a fairly common problem.

--Dan

 

I found it for $197 through GMPARTSDIRECT.COM but locally I called Autozone, O'reillys and NAPA and they dont even have a part number for the pump! I need to use the car for work as it is my only car at the moment. If I order it god knows when I will be able to get it? and I dont want to go to Chevy and let them give it to me in the rear...

 

The pump is real easy to change, you can have Gene Expidite your order and get it Tuesday!!

 

who is Gene? and if I could get it Tuesday... that would be great!!!

 

Gene from GMpartsdirect

 

Really!? how can I reach him?

And thank you so much!!!

 

Hi,
You know, I don't want to sound rude here, but you might want someone who really knows what they are doing with these cars to properly diagnose the problem before you just start throwing parts at it.

Without actually seeing the car, it does sound like the water pump is probably leaking from the weep hole. Mine just went out on my LS3 @ 10k miles. When it starts leaking, it will sling coolant from the pulley and you will be able to see the trail.

It could also be a leak from somewhere else. You really need a proper pressure tester device and to give it a good look with a powerful flashlight. Having a good mechanic's mirror will also help you see into the tighter areas. That is the first thing to do. If there are not any leaks, you need to make sure everything is bled properly and then monitor everything as the engine warms up. It is easy to see if the thermostat is not opening or if the fans are not coming on when they should.

I have a 160 t-stat and modified fan settings, so I'm not really sure where the stock cars run any more. I do remember mine (when stock) always being right around 195-200 on the freeway on a cooler day. In stop & go in warmer weather, it could hit 220 I think. The numbers you are reporting aren't that abnormal.

And as others have said, the traction control has no affect on timing or coolant temps. It only activates when traction is lost during aggressive driving/acceleration.

Hope you get it sorted out,

Andy