MN6 problem downshifting to 5th from 6th




I should add that everything was fine until I missed a few 2nd-3rd gear shifts and the shifter got hung up in between 3rd and 5th.

I should add that everything was fine until I missed a few 2nd-3rd gear shifts and the shifter got hung up in between 3rd and 5th.

Another thing to look for are torn rubber vibration isolators grommets under the bolt heads between the shifter box and torque tube. Look for excessive right- left play on the shift lever.
It does not sound like a problem with the transmission internals since you are not getting grinding or feel the syncros working. Tough to diagnose remotely.


Another thing to look for are torn rubber vibration isolators grommets under the bolt heads between the shifter box and torque tube. Look for excessive right- left play on the shift lever.
It does not sound like a problem with the transmission internals since you are not getting grinding or feel the syncros working. Tough to diagnose remotely.
that makes me feel a bit better. I was thinking it may have to do with shifter linkage since the tranny seems smooth going from 4th to 5th. I did miss some gears so it's possible I threw something out of alignment. I'm going to order a new shifter and when I install it I will look closely at everything you recommended above. Regarding the solid mounts, where did you get those and did it make a difference in noise, etc. or just made it feel a lot tighter.

The B&M shifter has solid mounts included in their kit. I would assume the other aftermarket shifter companies do also. I fabricated my own from aluminum flat stock between the torque tube mount and the shifter box and a grade 8 washer under the head of the torx bolt.
Last edited by Mez; May 6, 2010 at 06:33 PM.


The B&M shifter has solid mounts included in their kit. I would assume so does the other aftermarket shifter companies do also. I fabricated my own from aluminum flat stock below the shifter box and a grade 8 washer on top blow the head of the torx bolt.

Check the rubber bushings/grommets. You can't get replacements from GM. See the thread I started a while ago titled "Warning 6-speed owners" where this discussed in depth. As soon as I get the next batch of grommets, I'll ship you a pair for beta testing.
Last edited by Mez; May 6, 2010 at 06:40 PM.
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1) After removing the console and sound deadening material, shift the trans into neutral. Then, use the L shaped alignment pin on the front of the box to see if it will fit in the alignment hole below it. Don't move the shift **** while doing this. If it won't fit without moving the shift **** the alignment will have to be reset. You may have multiple problems so continue with the other checks.
2) Check the torque on the T40 head bolt that clamps the shifter output shaft to the shift rod. It should be 22 ftlbs and no less. A loose shift clamp bolt can cause shifting problems. It's common not to be able to get into the higher gears or reverse due to this.
3) Check torque on the two T40 head bolts that retain the shift box to the tunnel. They should also be 22 ftlbs.
4) Remove the two bolts you just checked and examine the two rubber bushings for cuts tears or missing parts. This is common even on low mile cars and causes sloppy shifting and indexing problems.
5) Finally fix all the issues found by a) realigning the shifter with the pin b) torque all three bolts to spec. Test before reinstalling the console.
I should have a fix for the shift box bushings and likely an improvement within a week. Email me thru my profile with an email titled Corvette Shifter Solutions if you have any questions and I'll get back to you immediately.
and when i stop i also have to shift 2sd before shift in first gear .
well i am sure is a probleme of alignment , i want to fix by using the advice of "montereyredc6" , but because i am french i don't understand exactly , so do you have a picture to visualy explane what you tell us .
thanks , i am really embarass.


1) After removing the console and sound deadening material, shift the trans into neutral. Then, use the L shaped alignment pin on the front of the box to see if it will fit in the alignment hole below it. Don't move the shift **** while doing this. If it won't fit without moving the shift **** the alignment will have to be reset. You may have multiple problems so continue with the other checks.
2) Check the torque on the T40 head bolt that clamps the shifter output shaft to the shift rod. It should be 22 ftlbs and no less. A loose shift clamp bolt can cause shifting problems. It's common not to be able to get into the higher gears or reverse due to this.
3) Check torque on the two T40 head bolts that retain the shift box to the tunnel. They should also be 22 ftlbs.
4) Remove the two bolts you just checked and examine the two rubber bushings for cuts tears or missing parts. This is common even on low mile cars and causes sloppy shifting and indexing problems.
5) Finally fix all the issues found by a) realigning the shifter with the pin b) torque all three bolts to spec. Test before reinstalling the console.
I should have a fix for the shift box bushings and likely an improvement within a week. Email me thru my profile with an email titled Corvette Shifter Solutions if you have any questions and I'll get back to you immediately.




I think it may be an internal issue from my missed 2nd - 3rd shifts.



