StayinStock

Can anyone recommend a good push rod length checker that wont break the bank but is still accurate?

ApexClone

The one I got from Texas Speed works well. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-17042-...7800-8800.aspx

StayinStock

Good price till I got to the shipping, more to ship it than the actual tool itself... ouch lol. What yall doing over there Texas Speed...

El_Steveo

Might be a standard shipping plug. Could try calling Texas Speed and seeing if they do it cheaper. GPI also sells a tool for 32 bucks made by comp cams.

torquetube

I prefer to use the length checker as a transfer gauge. Buy any checker you want, and perform the actual measurement of the checker's OAL with a height gauge or large calipers.

El_Steveo

I just clicked the link for that pushrod length checker in the reply above, That seems like it may be too high of a range. You may want a checker with a lower range, factory is 7.400

StayinStock

Yeah I'm currently running 7.400s, thinking I may need to add some preload to stop the chattering.

torquetube

I don't know the current price, but I two years ago I bought a Manton adjustable length checker for $10.

https://mantonpushrods.com/products/tools/

Dano523

Two part problem, being the first is you need to know the total travel of the piston in the tappet Full lower spring compression) to start with since you want to pre-load at least half that travel, then figure out that distance from piston button top to rocker, before it start to compress.



So first thing to do, is pull a few of the lifter sapart to pull all the oil out of it, so you can reassembly and measure that amount of total travel that pistons has in the lifters to start with when you only have to fight are pressure alone, to give you the amount that the lifters should be preloaded in the end.
Note, for me, I use the mill with Dro. Hence backward drill bit n collet or chuck, touch off to the seating button and Dro out the DRO, then compress all the way down to full compress the lower spring via the piston, the half of that distance is the amount that the lifter needs for preload.

Also, if you are pulling the lifters apart, would be a great time to add in limiting rings.
Note with limiting rings, need to measure that amount of total travel of the piston since it going to be reduced, and then use that half amount for pre load instead.

Last one, is to make sure that the button ends of the push rod checker, is the same sizes as the push rods you are going to use as well.

Turbo6TA

For the stock LS2, LS3, LS7 and LS9 hydraulic lifters, the total piston travel inside the lifter is .200" (two hundred thousands)

So, install a set of pushrods that will center the lifter piston ... anything around .070" - .100" (that 70 thousands to around 100 thousands of an inch)

Turbo6TA

BTW ... I have a supercharged LS3 with an aftermarket cam, the stock LS3 lifters and a set of 1.8 ratio roller rocker arms ... I have a set of hardened pushrods that set my lifter preload to .070" (70 thousands).

Close enough for 'Government Work' ....

And they are quiet.

bwill03z

I got the one from Comp and I don’t like it. Maybe they have changed the design (bought mine probably 4 years ago) and the top part turns way too easily. When you are putting the adjustable pushrod in and taking it out the top will spin and throw you off. I have no idea why they made it that way.

StayinStock

I gotta be realistic, I dont think I want to tear the motor down to the point of taking the lifters back out to measure that, if I'm going that far I'll just do heads and a better lifter while im at it lol. I dont disagree, and if I had the motor out on a stand I absolutely would. But I'm hoping I can just add some length and hopefully shut up the clattering. I dont even know that clattering is the right word, more of a flutter that sounds like an exhaust leak. Just more want to check it for piece of mind. Next year when I build a shortblock I may look into that a bit more but I think at that point I'll be looking at other lifter options.

Spaceme1117

Trick Flow® Pro Calibrated Adjustable Pushrod Length Checkers TFS-9501

$20.99 + $11.99 shipping plus tax

Adjustable from 6.8 to 7.8 inches.

StayinStock

Btw, I got that video of the sound for you and keep forgetting to send it, ill try to shoot it over this evening.

bwill03z

Okay sounds good

Hopefully you can get yours sounding better without pulling the heads and changing lifters. If the sound is kind of uniform across the motor and not isolated like mine then I bet putting some more preload on the lifters will help. I would def measure to where you’re at but I bet you prob need a 7.425 pr. Until you get an adjustable pushrod you could always do the rocker bolt turn method to get an idea. If done right it’s pretty accurate. I know I got an issue with mine, that I honestly believe is head related, but I think this BTR cam is just a noisy cam on top of it. I kind of wish that I had went with a Cam Motion cam now. I know Comp used to grind BTR’s cams but they don’t now and they wouldn’t tell me who does when I asked them.

I found a guy selling his factory heads He took off his grand sport around 32,000 miles that I thought about buying because I’m pretty sure my issue is related to the heads. He’s asking 1000 for them both do you think that’s a fair price or too much?

StayinStock

Yeah I feel you there, I like the cam but the noise almost ruins it for me. I almost went GPI but decided against it at the last minute because I figured BTR would ship quicker. As far as the head price not too sure. I've been looking a little for my buddy whos getting ready to throw them on his TBSS build, Prices seem to be all over the place.

bwill03z

Yeah they kind of are. I think LS3 heads used to be pretty easy to come by and we’re relatively cheap but I’ve had a really hard time finding some. These are take offs and supposedly in perfect shape but that price seems high to me.
I’ve heard good things about the GPI cams. I’m happy with the performance of the BTR cam but it’s driving me crazy that I can’t figure out where all that noise is coming from. What makes it so aggravating is the fact that I had motor pulled and had all new bearings done as well as the heads cleaned and a valve job so you’d think it would be perfect. Sounds like crap tho as you heard in the video lol

StayinStock

Yeah i know what you mean, Its a little thing but it frustrates me enough it makes me not want to drive the car some days. Hoping maybe a little more preload could correct it

bwill03z

yep mine is staying parked until I get it back to a shop to try and figure it out. I really think a 7.425 pushrod will help. I’ve got a set of basically brand new TSP 7.425 pushrods I’ll sell you if you want em. Bought them new and used them for a couple hundred miles