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This a 50 cent window track lock from Tru-Value hardware. See the next picture as it is clamped onto the clutch arm 'nubbin' backwards. So that the head of the bolt engages the floor board cut out switch about an inch early. This reduces clutch throw and over centering, and at least it feels like the clutch grabs sooner off the 'floor'.
OK - I just have to ask. Why are there bolts in your clutch pedal?
OK - I just have to ask. Why are there bolts in your clutch pedal? D
I had a neuroma on that foot, and the bolts took the pressure off it. The neuroma went away, but I left the bolts for a bunch of reasons. First they provide nice grip. Number 2, the bolts help by about a cm with my short leg reach (5'7"). And next laziness. And but not least, unfortunately, my bad back and trying to get under there.
I had a neuroma on that foot, and the bolts took the pressure off it. The neuroma went away, but I left the bolts for a bunch of reasons. First they provide nice grip. Number 2, the bolts help by about a cm with my short leg reach (5'7"). And next laziness. And but not least, unfortunately, my bad back and trying to get under there.
So there you go!
Glad to hear your foot is all better. I just found it interesting to see those bolts.
I sucked it out and replaced 5 or 6 times. Its definitely better, but still not what I expect. Every car I have owned since 93 has been a manual, and this is by far the worst clutch I have had to deal with. It just seems to grab right at the end of the pedal travel. I might want to try adjusting it so it grabs a bit earlier. I'll do some searching on that, unless someone wants to point me in the right direction.
The easiest way to find out is trying to talk to the original owner. Your symptoms sound like a twin disc clutch.
I bought the car from a dealer that had it on consignment. The original owner lives a few hundred miles away. I probably won't be able to contact him. I know the car has Corsa catback exhaust, so its possible that he did other mods.
If your clutch is chattering on a slow smooth start, the flushing is not going to do anything for you. I would put a new clutch in. You would love the Katech LS9x dual disk kit. I am selling them for $1,499 with free shipping right now. You can't beat it. PM if interested.
Will he need a Flywheel ? How much is R&C to install it ?
How many fricken horsepower does he have? Why would he need a dual disk clutch? The LS7 clutch has more than enough grip for his car and it is a lot cheaper. If he was going to cam it up or go FI, then get a clamper of a clutch but for a close to stock car? Goodness!
If you're in there, do the pilot bearing, flywheel, and slave. No use doing a partial fix and have to go back in there for one of the old parts.
How many fricken horsepower does he have? Why would he need a dual disk clutch? The LS7 clutch has more than enough grip for his car and it is a lot cheaper. If he was going to cam it up or go FI, then get a clamper of a clutch but for a close to stock car? Goodness!
If you're in there, do the pilot bearing, flywheel, and slave. No use doing a partial fix and have to go back in there for one of the old parts.
Elmer
I hear ya Elmer. I'll be sure to replace anything that would be a PITA to do later.
I seriously doubt I have more than the stated stock horsepower. Like I said, the only mod I am aware of is the Corsa exhaust.
I drove the Vette to work yesterday, and checked the clutch fluid when I got home. It was pretty dark, so I went through the protocol again. I'll do the same the next time I drive it. Didn't drive it today. Its supposed to rain a good portion of the day.
Just to let you know, I flushed my clutch fluid 2 or 3 times every Saturday morning for atleast 6 weeks before it finally stayed clean and the clutch perfomed normal. I haven't touched the fluid now for 6 or 7 weeks and it is still clear.
How many fricken horsepower does he have? Why would he need a dual disk clutch? The LS7 clutch has more than enough grip for his car and it is a lot cheaper. If he was going to cam it up or go FI, then get a clamper of a clutch but for a close to stock car? Goodness!
If you're in there, do the pilot bearing, flywheel, and slave. No use doing a partial fix and have to go back in there for one of the old parts.
Elmer
Easy dude! I said his symptoms are the same as a twin disc, I didn't say that's what he has. I don't have a clue as to how much power he has or what clutch is in the car.
Easy dude! I said his symptoms are the same as a twin disc, I didn't say that's what he has. I don't have a clue as to how much power he has or what clutch is in the car.
I should have used the quote. I wasn't talking to you, I was addressing the "need" for a twin disc clutch on a stock engine. There is NO reason to spend that much money unless you have high HP and need the clamping force.
I should have used the quote. I wasn't talking to you, I was addressing the "need" for a twin disc clutch on a stock engine. There is NO reason to spend that much money unless you have high HP and need the clamping force.
Besides, I'm much gruffer when I'm not "easy".
Elmer
Sorry for the little snip then. If we assume the OP's car is stock then you are correct about the twin disc. The only thing is the original owner may have had plans to upgrade the power or may have just got a deal on a high HP clutch (which would still be pricey compared to anything stock)...but it's all guess work at this point.
As already posted look up Rangers clutch fluid change out methods, as this has solved the same problem with my '05 clutch.
The other problem folks complain about is the late or high engagement.
This is the "problem" I have with my 09 Clutch. Seems to let out at the very top of the pedal travel and have a very short friction point. Is this normal?!
This is the "problem" I have with my 09 Clutch. Seems to let out at the very top of the pedal travel and have a very short friction point. Is this normal?!
See my post #18. This is a common complaint, and that gizmo has essentially fixed mine, and some others on the forum.
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