Easy DIY service
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Easy DIY service
My '06 C6 is approaching 50,000 miles, without any substantial service since it rolled off the assembly line. Having just been quoted $611 for regular maintenance by a local Vette shop, I'm starting to think that I need to learn to do more stuff by myself at home.
I already do brake pads by myself. I'm going to try to change the oil and replace the engine air filter. I looked into changing brake fluid, but that seems to be tricky and require specialized equipment that I have to buy online, so I'll skip that for now.
Is there anything else that can be done at home with reasonable effort and without risking serious damage to the car? Transmission fluid? Spark plugs? The service manual says that spark plugs are scheduled at 100,000 miles - any point trying to do them sooner? The manual also says that the cooling system should be drained and refilled every 5 years; how hard is that?
I already do brake pads by myself. I'm going to try to change the oil and replace the engine air filter. I looked into changing brake fluid, but that seems to be tricky and require specialized equipment that I have to buy online, so I'll skip that for now.
Is there anything else that can be done at home with reasonable effort and without risking serious damage to the car? Transmission fluid? Spark plugs? The service manual says that spark plugs are scheduled at 100,000 miles - any point trying to do them sooner? The manual also says that the cooling system should be drained and refilled every 5 years; how hard is that?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 472
Likes: 5
From: Austin Texas
Transmission fluid is easy, just need a $5 pump to pump the fluid in there. Differential fluid is also easy - use the same pump.
Coolant is fairly easy. Just drain and refill. Do this twice as 100% of the fluid doesn't drain out each time (dealers only do this once).
Don't worry about your spark plugs until you're at 100k or are having issues with them. But they're also fairly easy to change if you need to.
Air filter and oil are probably the easiest of the bunch.
Flushing brake fluid is probably best done by a dealer, but the motive power bleeder you need to do it yourself is only about $70.
If you've done brake pads yourself, you should have no problems with everything else. Just carefully read the DIY threads and you'll be set. The Z06 forum has a great DIY sticky thread that should help even if you don't have a Z06. I thought there was a general C6 DIY sticky, but I can't seem to find it...
Coolant is fairly easy. Just drain and refill. Do this twice as 100% of the fluid doesn't drain out each time (dealers only do this once).
Don't worry about your spark plugs until you're at 100k or are having issues with them. But they're also fairly easy to change if you need to.
Air filter and oil are probably the easiest of the bunch.
Flushing brake fluid is probably best done by a dealer, but the motive power bleeder you need to do it yourself is only about $70.
If you've done brake pads yourself, you should have no problems with everything else. Just carefully read the DIY threads and you'll be set. The Z06 forum has a great DIY sticky thread that should help even if you don't have a Z06. I thought there was a general C6 DIY sticky, but I can't seem to find it...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
I'm getting ready to do a full brake upgrade. All the parts are here, just waiting on a day under 100* outside.
I also ordered a Motive bleeder and will be doing it all myself. I got rotors and pads, SS lines, fluid, AND the bleeder for less than what I was quoted to just change the fronts at the big regional brake shop.
The rest is simple stuff.
I also ordered a Motive bleeder and will be doing it all myself. I got rotors and pads, SS lines, fluid, AND the bleeder for less than what I was quoted to just change the fronts at the big regional brake shop.
The rest is simple stuff.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,492
Likes: 807
From: West coast CA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,492
Likes: 807
From: West coast CA
Sorry to hear that. I recommend staying away from the spark plugs, then. They're easier to cross-thread, and much harder to fix.
Last edited by torquetube; Jun 18, 2010 at 01:11 AM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 472
Likes: 5
From: Austin Texas
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
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I'm still trying to get this done, but it's hard ...
Ordered Irwin bolt extractor kit from Amazon. It came on Monday. It stripped the bolt even further, down to conical shape.
Bought some J-B Weld and tried to glue a socket on top of the bolt. After 18 hours of curing, gave it a twist. J-B Weld came apart as if it were bubble gum.
My next plan is to drill a transverse hole in bolt head, wide enough to fit a screwdriver, and try to dislodge it that way.
Ordered Irwin bolt extractor kit from Amazon. It came on Monday. It stripped the bolt even further, down to conical shape.
Bought some J-B Weld and tried to glue a socket on top of the bolt. After 18 hours of curing, gave it a twist. J-B Weld came apart as if it were bubble gum.
My next plan is to drill a transverse hole in bolt head, wide enough to fit a screwdriver, and try to dislodge it that way.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
Likes: 9,801
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
At first I thought you meant you stripped the threads in the oil pan.
You may be in a situation that would be better letting the dealer handle. Are you using the correct size metric tools??? The plug shouldn't have been in that tight that you would have rounded off the edges but if you used the correct size wrench it looks like there is something going on that isn't normal. Maybe the last place that changed the oil overtightened the plug???? You don't want to do anything that damages that aluminum oil pan or your problems will get worse.
Bill
You may be in a situation that would be better letting the dealer handle. Are you using the correct size metric tools??? The plug shouldn't have been in that tight that you would have rounded off the edges but if you used the correct size wrench it looks like there is something going on that isn't normal. Maybe the last place that changed the oil overtightened the plug???? You don't want to do anything that damages that aluminum oil pan or your problems will get worse.
Bill
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
My big mistake was trying to use a 12-point ring wrench at first, because I couldn't find the right size hex socket. And the bolt was (still is) sitting extremely tight. I think the mechanic at our local Chevrolet dealership overtightened it when I took it there for the last oil change.
San Diego CA
Were do you live?
Racer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 497
Likes: 21
From: Garner NC
Depending on how much of the bolt is left, a good set of vice grips or a small pipe wrench will get the job done. Additionally, you could drill the bolt out, but this requires great care and the car will be undriveable until you get a new bolt.
SUBVETTE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 93
From: San Diego CA
I'd put a pipe wrench on it. Make sure you are trying to turn it the right way. It loosens in a counterclockwise rotation. Once you get it out it's going to have a chewed up head but you can get a replacement from your dealers parts dept.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 695
Likes: 19
My oil pan looks exactly the same. I've done all my own oil changes since I bought the car new in '05. However, it looks like the last time I put in the bolt the rubber seal tore slightly in one spot resulting in a similar looking oil pan.
I highly doubt anything is wrong with your oil pan gasket. Looks like whoever did your last oil change over-tightened the bolt destroying the rubber seal and allowed it to leak a bit.
I highly doubt anything is wrong with your oil pan gasket. Looks like whoever did your last oil change over-tightened the bolt destroying the rubber seal and allowed it to leak a bit.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,492
Likes: 807
From: West coast CA
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 466
Likes: 8
From: San Diego CA
I would pretty much resign myself to taking the pan off and drilling a hole into/through the center of the bolt and try a bolt extractor at this point. put an easy-out bolt extractor into the hole and turn until the bolt comes out. Otherwise, you are just going to have to carefully drill the bolt out.
No offence intended, but that contraption with the spade bit speaks volumes to that fact that maybe it is better for you to let someone that knows what they are doing handle your auto maintenance. From the looks of that oil leak you need a new pan gasket anyway
Good luck!
No offence intended, but that contraption with the spade bit speaks volumes to that fact that maybe it is better for you to let someone that knows what they are doing handle your auto maintenance. From the looks of that oil leak you need a new pan gasket anyway
Good luck!
Last edited by SloChicken; Feb 27, 2011 at 05:31 AM.
