Also make sure you do not drop anything in the intake ports. If your car will be sitting without the intake for a while, put some tape over the ports.
intake manifold removal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 21
From: Placitas New Mexico
intake manifold removal
How difficult is it to remove the IM and TB to send out for porting? I installed headers a couple of weeks ago but this is more intimidating to me because of all the connections. Plus I've heard of people changing the IM out and then having to redo it because something was done wrong in the assembly process. How long would it take for a first timer on and off?
Thanks
Tommy O
Thanks
Tommy O
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
How difficult is it to remove the IM and TB to send out for porting? I installed headers a couple of weeks ago but this is more intimidating to me because of all the connections. Plus I've heard of people changing the IM out and then having to redo it because something was done wrong in the assembly process. How long would it take for a first timer on and off?
Thanks
Tommy O
Thanks
Tommy O
The only issue is removal and reconnection of the vacuum line going to from the rear of the manifold to the brake booster. There is plug for the oil pressure sensor on the top of the block and you have to fish around back there with the manifold half way in/out because once the manifold is all the way in, you can't reach these connections.
The fuel rail is pops off the fuel injectors pretty easy with a firm tug once the hold down bolts are removed. You don't necessarily have to disconnect it. Swing it out of the way and lay it on the cowl with a towel under it. You can buy the disconnection tool at most car parts stores if you want to disconnect it completely by the brake booster.
Maybe 30-45 minutes for a first timer. 12 minutes if you've done it before.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 25
From: Austin Texas
Mez is a lot faster that I am at removing an intake manifold, the first time took me nearly 2 hours (but I'm old and slow). The back bolts are a problem, they won't come out since they're under the firewall, you have to hold them up away from the heads while pulling the intake out.
By the way, if you are using an '05 Factory Manual ignore the part about draining the coolant, you DO NOT have to drain the cooling system.
Re-use all the gaskets, if you have to replace any of them they are VERY expensive.
Not rocket science but requires some thought and the right tools.
By the way, if you are using an '05 Factory Manual ignore the part about draining the coolant, you DO NOT have to drain the cooling system.
Re-use all the gaskets, if you have to replace any of them they are VERY expensive.
Not rocket science but requires some thought and the right tools.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Mez is a lot faster that I am at removing an intake manifold, the first time took me nearly 2 hours (but I'm old and slow). The back bolts are a problem, they won't come out since they're under the firewall, you have to hold them up away from the heads while pulling the intake out.
By the way, if you are using an '05 Factory Manual ignore the part about draining the coolant, you DO NOT have to drain the cooling system.
Re-use all the gaskets, if you have to replace any of them they are VERY expensive.
Not rocket science but requires some thought and the right tools.
By the way, if you are using an '05 Factory Manual ignore the part about draining the coolant, you DO NOT have to drain the cooling system.
Re-use all the gaskets, if you have to replace any of them they are VERY expensive.
Not rocket science but requires some thought and the right tools.
Yes, the rear bolts can not be pulled out completely due to the lack of clearance. I wrapped about 1 inch of that split plastic corrugated wire organizer tube stuff around to keep the bolts up but you can use rubber hose or tape.
The manifolds use "O" rings around each runner which are reusable. I saw someone spray a little soapy water on the heads during reinstallation to keep them from sticking and pulled out of the manifold because you have to slide the manifold the last couple of inches along the heads to get it under the cowl.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 25
From: Austin Texas
LOL. I am catching up to you!
Yes, the rear bolts can not be pulled out completely due to the lack of clearance. I wrapped about 1 inch of that split plastic corrugated wire organizer tube stuff around to keep the bolts up but you can use rubber hose or tape.
The manifolds use "O" rings around each runner which are reusable. I saw someone spray a little soapy water on the heads during reinstallation to keep them from sticking and pulled out of the manifold because you have to slide the manifold the last couple of inches along the heads to get it under the cowl.
Yes, the rear bolts can not be pulled out completely due to the lack of clearance. I wrapped about 1 inch of that split plastic corrugated wire organizer tube stuff around to keep the bolts up but you can use rubber hose or tape.
The manifolds use "O" rings around each runner which are reusable. I saw someone spray a little soapy water on the heads during reinstallation to keep them from sticking and pulled out of the manifold because you have to slide the manifold the last couple of inches along the heads to get it under the cowl.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 264
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
After 7 times I'm at about 15 minutes. A couple of tips to add.
I pop the fuel injectors injectors out of the manifold, not the fuel rail. That way no gas is spilled. They just pop out once the bolts are removed.
I also pop the brake booster line out of the brake booster, leaving it attached to the manifold. It will actually snake past the oil switch while still attached. Then I snake it back in as the manifold goes in. It's a bear to try to unhook that hose while the manifold is still on the car. I actually have a hose clamp on mine with the fast so it's impossible to remove until the manifold is out.
I pop the fuel injectors injectors out of the manifold, not the fuel rail. That way no gas is spilled. They just pop out once the bolts are removed.
I also pop the brake booster line out of the brake booster, leaving it attached to the manifold. It will actually snake past the oil switch while still attached. Then I snake it back in as the manifold goes in. It's a bear to try to unhook that hose while the manifold is still on the car. I actually have a hose clamp on mine with the fast so it's impossible to remove until the manifold is out.
Unplug wires and remove bolts. Not difficult at all.
The only issue is removal and reconnection of the vacuum line going to from the rear of the manifold to the brake booster. There is plug for the oil pressure sensor on the top of the block and you have to fish around back there with the manifold half way in/out because once the manifold is all the way in, you can't reach these connections.
The fuel rail is pops off the fuel injectors pretty easy with a firm tug once the hold down bolts are removed. You don't necessarily have to disconnect it. Swing it out of the way and lay it on the cowl with a towel under it. You can buy the disconnection tool at most car parts stores if you want to disconnect it completely by the brake booster.
Maybe 30-45 minutes for a first timer. 12 minutes if you've done it before.
The only issue is removal and reconnection of the vacuum line going to from the rear of the manifold to the brake booster. There is plug for the oil pressure sensor on the top of the block and you have to fish around back there with the manifold half way in/out because once the manifold is all the way in, you can't reach these connections.
The fuel rail is pops off the fuel injectors pretty easy with a firm tug once the hold down bolts are removed. You don't necessarily have to disconnect it. Swing it out of the way and lay it on the cowl with a towel under it. You can buy the disconnection tool at most car parts stores if you want to disconnect it completely by the brake booster.
Maybe 30-45 minutes for a first timer. 12 minutes if you've done it before.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
ive got a 08 vette and just had the headers , high flows,exhaust,airaid intake and a ecs tune and was thinking about sending out the intake and throttle body to be ported .. if i do the intake a throttle body to be ported do i have to retune the car ???
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
You should. In my case, I needed drop the ignition advance by 3-4 degrees at WOT over 5000 rpm or it would knock. The FAST 92 intake manifold improved cylinder filling (how else would you increase power?) so less advance was needed.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,289
Likes: 129
From: Providence Forge, VA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
This is what I have for Z06:
First Pass: Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
Final Pass: Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
First Pass: Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
Final Pass: Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
