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Sure sounds like air in the system. Have you tried removing the small hose going into the driver's side head (it come off a tee by the radiator) and blowing in the coolant reservoir? Keep blowing until water comes out. I had to do this a week ago after a t-stat change that was causing overheating
The LS2 cooling system is the hardest I have ever had to get the air out. I used a minivac hand vac pump and hooked it to the small hose comming form the head to the tank and pulled a vac on it until water came out, I could actually add coolant/water to the tank as I was pulling a vac on the engine. Was able to get all the water that drained out of the rad back in, worked great.
Hay, I see you are from Sioux Falls, SD, I will be there in about 12 days for the BHCC. Are you attending??
Later
Donald
Last edited by DONALD HALL; Jul 2, 2010 at 10:22 PM.
Yeah I have one, and your not going to like it. It's possible to ballon the flat cooling tubes if you see pressures 50 psi or higher. This would make the tubes expand and crush the fin so no air could get through the core. It could be a pressure cap or stat malfunction or a blown head gasket.
It's hard to see the effects of this so I'll post both a good fin and a crushed fin. Another way to tell is to drop a piece of paper in front of the core and see if you have any pull.
Pull the driver's side head coolant line and purge the system by blowing into the tank. Blow until you get water out the line, put the line back on, then top off.
I had the same problem after replacing a thermostat, it's amazing how quickly it overheated due to air in the system.
Pull the driver's side head coolant line and purge the system by blowing into the tank. Blow until you get water out the line, put the line back on, then top off.
I had the same problem after replacing a thermostat, it's amazing how quickly it overheated due to air in the system.
the coolant line you are talking about goes right by the throttle body right?
where do i blow into the tank? also do i have the cap off during this??
Tdewit that is really hard to see the difference in the 2 pics besides a few bent fins on the radiator. so you are saying with the car running before the fans turn on a piece of paper should stick to the rad?
You had an overheating problem, then replaced the water pump and thermostat but still the same overheating problem? Could it be that the "problem" was/is just a faulty sensor or gauge?
Or; Since you have no water flow thru the hose maybe your replacement thermostat is not opening?
You don't always have mixed oil & water with a bad head gasket or a cracked/warped head. Sometimes a connection between the cylinder and the coolant can happen without involving the oil. This might happen only when you at maximum temperature when pushing it hard.
What kindof temps are you seeing and in what conditions?
temps are getting to 210 or so sitting in the garage after around 2 minutes running.
fans ran on high speed but are not bringing the temp down.
Originally Posted by haljensen
You had an overheating problem, then replaced the water pump and thermostat but still the same overheating problem? Could it be that the "problem" was/is just a faulty sensor or gauge?
Or; Since you have no water flow thru the hose maybe your replacement thermostat is not opening?
i tested out both old and new thermostat and they both opened up fine when up to temp by dropping them into hot water
Originally Posted by timd38
Could you have put the thermostat in backwards?
can only go in onw way and there is an alignment tab
250-260 when i was on the road course and it was purging fluid at a track day.
it has been to the track 4 days previous to this with the new radiator and now issues so something has gone bad it seems.
Check to see there's nothing in front of the a/c condenser or any obstruction blocking the air flow through the condenser to radiator.
See if the air dam is okay.