I know this thread is old af but m R g S r was right!! I had the same problem. Took the axles off even though they seemed to be ok. Further inspection after taking them out and still didn’t think they were the culprit. But sure enough, I swapped them left to right and problem is 90% gone. Time for new axles.

 

I'm going through some vibration issue similar to this.
Any solution to this thread? I'd like to have some direction before I start removing stuff!

 

Mine turned out to be my half shafts that I got from CARQUEST. All because this one was torn...


This is what happened with the CARQUEST axles after a month...


Pretty sure the CV joints and boots were not supposed to collapse like that! Replaced them with OEM axles last weekend...problem solved.

 

Well, it seems I will be dropping the driveline soon and checking the clutch. After careful listening I am able to tell that RPM's do raise up while the chattering takes place. I just never had a clutch go bad on me and never caused a clutch to slip in my 30 years plus of driving so I would not figure a heavy duty clutch would chatter especilly since I havent raced the car.

I do blip the throttle sometimes and spin the tires a bit but that is while the clutch is already engaged.

My theory is the stop and go traffic on an incline everyday leaving NYC. The light flywheel and clutch demand I apply way too much throttle to get a 427CID engine in a lightweight car to move. I'm betting the clutch is glazed more than anything but again, with only about 20K miles I should not need to be doing this.

I'm not trying to hinder the business of Mcleod but the twin disc clutch didnt hold up like my past few C5's and C6 OEM clutch as a daily driver and it was expensive AND it is a pain to swap out. I am set on the ZR1 clutch and wonder if the added weight of the clutch itself will be enough or I should change out the lighter flywheel while I'm in there.

I am on the fence about doing this job myself since I do not have a lift. I see guys doing their C6 Z06 Clutch at home but they all have lifts. I have a car port with a quickjack.

Any advice if I should DIY this or take it to a pro?

 

Having done a couple of clutches in c5’s in lifts which are easier due to the split bell housing, if you can afford to pay someone I’d pay someone. Stabbing that torque tube in laying on the ground is not going to be fun nor is reaching the top bellhousing bolts (I’d remove the intake and go from the top).

I’m a big fan of the stock LUK clutches. Mine has been great, check my sig. Still going strong.

 

Joe thanks for the advice, yeah I'm going to be on gravel to add to the pain. The labor is about $1k so it looks like I will bring to a shop.
stock replacement LUK clutch huh? Thanks for that as well. Price certainly is better.
I do think the oem and oem styles are best in my very limited experience.

 

I've been doing this a while and I've had and seen great luck with stock clutches. If you are doing a ¼ mile only car, or your car had > 500-600 rwhp, then I might have a different answer for you but you can have fun on street, road course and drag strip with a stock clutch for a very long time.

Mine has 497 passes and 85,000 miles on it and still going strong. Just stay religious on the clutch fluid maintenance as shown here:

www.rangeracceleration.com

You'll thank me for taking it somewhere, doing that for the first time on gravel, you would be hating life my friend, trust me!!