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Pulled battery now car won't start!!!

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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:33 AM
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Default Pulled battery now car won't start!!!

I've searched.....it IS NOT the battery and YES I actually have the car in reverse and not 5th.....

Just picked up an 05 3 days ago. Today while taking some pics the shift to reverse issue started. Accesories would not power off while the car was in reverse. Yes, it is in reverse and NOT 5th. To avoid drain on the battery until the problem could be solved, I pulled it. When I replaced it (shows 12.5 volts on my voltmeter.....it IS NOT the battery) the car will not start and now the DIC says both service steering column lock AND I still have the shift to reverse on the DIC.

HELP!!!! lol
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:48 AM
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I'm sure you have a low battery. 12.5 volts in itself does not mean it's a good battery. Only a load test can prove that. Put a charger on it and see what happens.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by VET4LES
I'm sure you have a low battery. 12.5 volts in itself does not mean it's a good battery. Only a load test can prove that. Put a charger on it and see what happens.
Folks keep thinking when the see 12.5 volts on the meter all is well... many times it's not! That type meter simply can't properly test the battery. I'd drop a fully charged new battery in BEFORE doing anything else...
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by VET4LES
I'm sure you have a low battery. 12.5 volts in itself does not mean it's a good battery. Only a load test can prove that. Put a charger on it and see what happens.
Originally Posted by cthusker
Folks keep thinking when the see 12.5 volts on the meter all is well... many times it's not! That type meter simply can't properly test the battery. I'd drop a fully charged new battery in BEFORE doing anything else...
It is NOT THE BATTERY!!!! The car had no problem starting with the same battery 2 minutes before I disconnected it. The battery didn't drain while sitting for 120 seconds.

I can't be the only one to have this issue....

Last edited by ZFIDDY1; Aug 31, 2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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Did you put the battery back in? Even though it started 2 mins before I would still have it checked. Did you happen to have a code or check engine light? That might help diagnose it. You could also have a loose connection on your starter.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Make sure you are pushing the clutch pedal all the way down. Sometimes the switch needs a little adjustment.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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it doesn't need to be in reverse to start.

i bet its the clutch engage switch
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by c6 batmobile
Did you put the battery back in? Even though it started 2 mins before I would still have it checked. Did you happen to have a code or check engine light? That might help diagnose it. You could also have a loose connection on your starter.
I appreciate what you guys have said bit IT IS NOT THE BATTERY!!! The dealer has now confirmed that.

Originally Posted by VET4LES
Make sure you are pushing the clutch pedal all the way down. Sometimes the switch needs a little adjustment.
Don't see how that could have anything to do with it but I'll def have the dealer look into that.....

Originally Posted by carlrx7
it doesn't need to be in reverse to start.

i bet its the clutch engage switch
But it does need to be in reverse to turn off, which is what I said part of my problem was....
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by POISND U
Don't see how that could have anything to do with it but I'll def have the dealer look into that.....
If you don't want people's advice, then don't post questions.

Why are you posting questions here if its being fixed by the dealer?

The starter circuit is disabled when the clutch pedal is up. This is a safety thing to prevent the car from jumping forward/backward if the driver has it in gear and does not have the clutch disengaged.

Finally, your profile is incompleted. You've been a member since Dec '07 with 17 total posts.

Last edited by Mez; Aug 31, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mez
If you don't want people's advice, then don't post questions.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by POISND U
I appreciate what you guys have said bit IT IS NOT THE BATTERY!!! The dealer has now confirmed that.



Don't see how that could have anything to do with it but I'll def have the dealer look into that.....



But it does need to be in reverse to turn off, which is what I said part of my problem was....
A. Don't come on the forum then ask a question, then act like a jerk when people try to help.

B. The reverse enable selenoid often goes bad in 05's. This could prevent you from putting it in reverse. (most of the time when it fails the default position is with the reverse lock out out of the way so the shifter can go in

C. The clutch engagement switch definitely could be the culprit.

D. And just becuase it torques you off so much..... CHECK THE BATTERY AND BATTERY CONNECTIONS!

Good luck.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mez
If you don't want people's advice, then don't post questions.

Why are you posting questions here if its being fixed by the dealer?

The starter circuit is disabled when the clutch pedal is up. This is a safety thing to prevent the car from jumping forward/backward if the driver has it in gear and does not have the clutch disengaged.

Finally, your profile is incompleted. You've been a member since Dec '07 with 17 total posts.
If some would read a bit closer it wouldn't be an issue. As for the clutch engage switch all I said is I don't see how that is it. Any percieved attitude from me was unintentional.

I'm posting because the service tech that is checking out the car is thus far as stumped as I am and thought there'd be an off chance that SOMEONE here has had the SAME EXACT problems that I'm having and I could suggest something to him.

Originally Posted by DrivnXcitment
A. Don't come on the forum then ask a question, then act like a jerk when people try to help.

B. The reverse enable selenoid often goes bad in 05's. This could prevent you from putting it in reverse. (most of the time when it fails the default position is with the reverse lock out out of the way so the shifter can go in

C. The clutch engagement switch definitely could be the culprit.

D. And just becuase it torques you off so much..... CHECK THE BATTERY AND BATTERY CONNECTIONS!

Good luck.
Again, ya read me wrong. I wasn't being a dick, I just don't understand how that could be the issue.....I didn't say it wasn't.

B: There is no problem engaging reverse. The car will move in reverse but the accesories will not power down.

C: I'll relay that to the tech.

D: What "torques me off" is when I clearly state that I know what the problem IS NOT, then someone suggests it is, then treat me like I'm the idiot.




Some of ya'll need to loosen up a bit.....have a drink or somethin'.

I'll post the dealer's findings as they come.....
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #13  
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You have a "service column lock" problem tell the dealer to look into part # 15915003 and #88963402. This is a terrible and known issue on 2005 mn6 corvettes and if your battery is bad its because when you tried to start it the car drained it overnight because of this service column lock. Do a search on "service column lock" a lot to read about.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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What happens when you press the start switch with the Clutch in ? Does
it click or nothing at all. I doubt its the BAT based on what you said. I find
it hard to believe the garage guy is stumped with all the resources at his disposal. You will have to check if the start relay is pulling in. If it is you need to know that the 12 vdc is getting to the solenoid.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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Just got a call from the dealer and the car is ready....told you guys it wasn't the battery. lol

1. The $6.78 switch that detects the shifter is in reverse shorted out. Replaced and now works correctly.

2. The dealer had to reflash the ECM that cleared all the other problems which according to the tech, there were 15 malfunctions. I'm thinking the rest of the problems were caused by disconnecting the battery while the car was in accesory mode still. At first, they thought they'd need to replace the ECM.

Total cost for parts and labor? $380. Mostly for tracing and clearing the ECM issues.

Lesson learned? Next time, let the @#$%ing battery die.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by POISND U
Just got a call from the dealer and the car is ready....told you guys it wasn't the battery. lol

1. The $6.78 switch that detects the shifter is in reverse shorted out. Replaced and now works correctly.

2. The dealer had to reflash the ECM that cleared all the other problems which according to the tech, there were 15 malfunctions. I'm thinking the rest of the problems were caused by disconnecting the battery while the car was in accesory mode still. At first, they thought they'd need to replace the ECM.

Total cost for parts and labor? $380. Mostly for tracing and clearing the ECM issues.

Lesson learned? Next time, let the @#$%ing battery die.
There is no reason to reflash the PCM. If they reflashed it, they were simply guessing it would fix the problem.

The scanner can clear the DTC in just a few minutes. Low voltage caused by pulling the battery cable while in accessory mode probably caused a lot of DTC to be set into memory due to the sudden drop in voltage. To clear them, they just hit "clear" icon on the scanner. I think they made you pay for their lack of trouble shooting skills.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by POISND U
Just got a call from the dealer and the car is ready....told you guys it wasn't the battery. lol

1. The $6.78 switch that detects the shifter is in reverse shorted out. Replaced and now works correctly.

2. The dealer had to reflash the ECM that cleared all the other problems which according to the tech, there were 15 malfunctions. I'm thinking the rest of the problems were caused by disconnecting the battery while the car was in accesory mode still. At first, they thought they'd need to replace the ECM.

Total cost for parts and labor? $380. Mostly for tracing and clearing the ECM issues.

Lesson learned? Next time, let the @#$%ing battery die.
glad ur up and running again.. p.s. were your reverse lights working?
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by El_corvette_ azul
You have a "service column lock" problem tell the dealer to look into part # 15915003 and #88963402. This is a terrible and known issue on 2005 mn6 corvettes and if your battery is bad its because when you tried to start it the car drained it overnight because of this service column lock. Do a search on "service column lock" a lot to read about.
What are those two parts?

I have the same no start/SCL issue with my '05. After the dealer told me I had a bad battery on two occasions, with two different batteries, and each time having the battery in question checked at an independant shop and getting flying colors each time, the dealer finally replaced the column lock actuator. All was good for about four weeks until SCL messages again graced my DIC. Finally in desperation I put a new battery in, and just like with the new actuator, all was good for about four weeks until it again decided not to start.

At this point, when it decides not to start, I get home and put it on a charger overnight. I guess it figures its sort of a hybrid! I hear from my brother who has an 06 that there is a certain way to charge the battery by removing a fuse or something. Any truth to this?

TIA
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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Aaaaaaaaand less than 4 hours later the problem is back. ****.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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Maybe it's the battery or clutch switch.
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