Spin:

No its a D1. I had to send it off as the seals were leaking a few weeks ago but other than that I havent had any problems (and it doesnt sound like a tin can).

As far as the gearing I started with 4.11 but dropped back to 3.73.

One other item I changed was the PC intercooler to an A&A. I have had problems overheating and it seems to have had fixed my problem. I now have three oil coolers, 1 tranny, 1 diff. I placed two of the coolers in my foglight openings and installed a dewitts but use it purely for coolant as I think the coolant was actually heating up the oil chamber.
I also make my own duel fan connector using aluminum 1/2 square bar to prevent melting from cranking up the fan (FLA summer months are a B).

I will post the new dyno sheet but it looks like it wont be tommorrow as we have an 80% chance of rain and my NT05R's dont like the wet roads.

Finally, I use only Royal Purple - dont know if it makes a huge difference but my shop swears by it.

I am really interested to see what my 60' and 1/8 mile times will be with the changes. My competition is my modded 911TT which easily runs 0-60 below 3 seconds w/o the PDK tranny. It is qquuuiiicckk!

One last point was my break-in after forging. I used rotella for 5k miles. It was very hard not nailing it hard but I am patient.

No intention of stealing time/focus from the OP but all this info is relevent.

 

900rw out of a D1.....ah the joys of living at sea level.

 

Thanks for all info, I'm not sure if you were talking to me or "CPG1962" but as far as my build goes: my current setup is in my signature and I'm still trying to dertermine what I want to do as far as building this thing. I just had another screw thto throw into the mix, the D1 I thought was being shipped ended up being a P1...
Here's the deal, I bought the setup from "White_Shark" and he had it shipped to ATI for a D1 upgrade but once he decided to sell it he just had ATI inspect it and send it back. The shop that brokered the deal thought it had been upgraded already so they said it was a D1. It's really, no harm, no foul, because I just ended up with a P1 as originally posted for sale, I just thought I was getting a little better deal than I agreed to when I committed to purchase it. From the paperwork that came with it, It looks like it was setup with the 8 rib upgrade but it's missing the alternator pulley and the oringinal 5psi Z06 pulley. It has a new 6psi pulley in a bag full of misc nuts small parts and bolts. I'm really not sure what all is missing yet but the main componants look to be there...

Financially things just changed a little too since at 2:00pm today my daughter wrecked her third car in 2 years! She is fine but the 05' Imprezza I'm not too sure of yet...

So here is what I have, I have a stock bottom end that I previously installed ARP rod bolts in antisipation of running Nitrous in the future. The cam has too much overlap to use so it needs to be changed at the least. I have Stage 3, 243 heads from Livernois that were milled .030 so I believe that puts me just shy of 11.5:1.
I also just talked to ATI and they confirmed the unit was inspected and said I can safely run about 6 PSI without too much problem.

So, how about if run my heads and just change the cam, upgrade the fuel pump, run 58# injectors and run Meth. Is it doable or am I just asking for trouble? I will definitley be doing a stroker sometime in the future but it may have to wait awhile...
How much rwhp can I shoot for and what psi do you think will get me there?

 

What you can run at 11.5:1 is going to be low if youre at sea level. 6psi is ok with meth. Since you have a stock bottom end, the max you will be safe at with meth and the right compression is about 650rwhp. I would lower the compression with unmilled heads. See if there is someone who would swap heads with you that wants the milled ones so you can get under 10.9:1. At 10.9:1 (stock compression) you will be fine for about 10 psi which will be over 650rwhp. The P1 makes more heat for the same boost level so it wont make as much power as a D1 at 10psi.....a 30HP difference?

As far as cam overlap, 4 degrees will just favor the peak HP at the expense of low end TQ to the tune of 10HP more up top at the expense of 10rwtq down low. Its not the end of the world if you dont change it. One only needs to see the crazy huge overlap cams some shops tout as their FI cam in a stroker.

What are the cam specs?

 

I'm running Thunder Racing's "Trak Cam" 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA

 

yeh - until the sea level starts rising and my car becomes a boat.

 

I know detonation is probably by far the leading cause for blown engines when boosted, but barring that, what's the next failure point, rods, crank, pistons, head gaskets?
I installed ARP rod bolts to avoid rod failure due to stretch when I was setting it up for nitrous, so what 's next to pop and at what rwhp and boost?