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Ugh, so lets try this again since after I finished typing everything was erased.
Been having nothing but issues with the starting of my 06 z51 6spd vette. It all started about 3 weeks ago when it had a hard time cranking that got progressively worse over time. After a week or so the hard cranking turned into the starter just clicking every time I hit the ignition switch until it finally turns over(sometimes starts right up or other times it requires 20-30 tries). After checking under the hood I noticed something odd with the starter and pulled it out.
That is what was found and it was replaced. After a few days the clicking during start up occurred again so I searched the forums. After reading numerous comments about batteries I went out and purchased a new Optima red top on Tuesday. Then last night on the way home the "Service Charging System" came on the DIC with a battery voltage of 11.9. After a few minutes driving the message went away and the battery was at the normal 13.9-14.1.
This afternoon, while heading to lunch, I get in and attempt to start the car and the clicking is back. After 5-6 tries it finally starts up.
This is becoming ridicules and I am tired of throwing money at it. I have checked all fuses (with the exception of the large one under the passenger carpet due to not being able to pull it out), it has new plugs (NGK TR6's gapped at .60) and new plug wires (MSG).
This type of problem has been posted many times and 90% or more of the time it's the battery. Sometimes a new battery needs charging. If you haven't already done it make sure all of the battery connections are good including the ground. How far do you drive to work? I have read that if takes up to a half hour to recharge the battery just from starting the engine. Good luck and keep us posted.
It sounds to me like your problem is with the charging system not the battery or the starter. I recommend you check the voltage being produced by your alternator. If its low it could mean a bad/corroded connection between the alternator and battery, or a faulty alternator that needs to be replaced.
I know it sounds as if it could not be related, but I have seen threads on here about the NGK plugs causing exactly this "service charging system" message.
OK, I'll go a bit further: 0.60 gap? I say, in addition to the above, all of which qualifies, I'm not sure of the gap. Where did you get that number from?
I know it sounds as if it could not be related, but I have seen threads on here about the NGK plugs causing exactly this "service charging system" message.
I agree as this has happened to me! Seriously, the wrong plugs will cause noise into the ECU which messes with the ECU commanding the alternator. The problem usually surfaces with the DIC message and too low of voltage rather than a totally dead battery. If I was you, I would first look at the cables to and from the battery and the solenoid itself which is where the electrical all comes together. Do not forget that its electrically hot there unless you pull the negative cable first.
Thanks for the feedback on my issues. The reason my plugs are gapped at .60 is regarding a thread I found running tr6's in a NA car. Mentioned if your running boost to put them at. 35-.40 and NA gap at. 60. I'm not get an spark blow out at high rpms now like I was when they where at. 40.
I ended up pulling the starter again to find the same occurance with a burnt terminal on the battery side. What could be causing this? Checked all fuses and there good to go at the correct voltage. Grounding problem?
OK, I'll go a bit further: 0.60 gap? I say, in addition to the above, all of which qualifies, I'm not sure of the gap. Where did you get that number from?
A burned terminal means a lose connection. Lose connections become resistance which then essentially becomes a small but powerful, heater. This super-heating from the bad connection or bad crimp causes the insulation to change colors and loss of electrical power.
A burned terminal means a lose connection. Lose connections become resistance which then essentially becomes a small but powerful, heater. This super-heating from the bad connection or bad crimp causes the insulation to change colors and loss of electrical power.
A burned terminal means a lose connection. Lose connections become resistance which then essentially becomes a small but powerful, heater. This super-heating from the bad connection or bad crimp causes the insulation to change colors and loss of electrical power.
Thanks for the info. Anything else I should check due to the burning? It's odd the same thing happened to both starters
If the crimp on the battery cable that attaches to the starter solenoid is bad, then this will keep happening. The cable is an entire assembly for the fuse box, solenoid, battery and so on, all in one cable and normally is replaced that way. You could probably obtain just the connection that is burning, cut off the old and re-crimp the new one on there but you need a serious crimp tool for it. The dealer will charge you about $300 for the cable and labor to do it for you.