chaver450

I have had my ARH headers and X-pipe for over a year now and have have the X-pipe portion rattle against my body a few times. I think it's getting worse lately. I don't know if it's the weather change or what. I've been underneath and checked it out a few times. The tolerances are way too close. I've had it "fixed" once by a local speed shop but it still rattles, usually at idle and sometimes when turning left. It can be quite annoying.

So, any tips for fixing? Is this something a dedicated muffler shop could possibly fix? Like they may be able to bend it slightly...? If there is no fix, I may have to go back to stock.

Help me out guys.

Neumonic2002

you might be rubbing under the inside passenger side floor board where the header tubes come down and meet at the collector. The turning left discription tips me off to that as it happened to me after I installed mine. Check there and I will bet there isn't enough clearance. the good news is..you can either bend the extra metal away or use a cutting wheel and cut off the extra metal then spray some primer on the small area.

The metal is very thick there so I chose the cutting method then put some paper around my headers and sprayed some primer on the small area where I removed the metal/material.

moog5050

My ARH x-pipe was rattling against the metal cover for the gas tanks. I clamped on a silicone coupler where its was rattling and no more rattling for the last year. Key is to find the rattler first, then it should be an easy fix. Get a good heat resistant coupler if you go this route.

I also agree with Neumonic, we had to clearance that area by rolling the metal a bit when we did the install.

Boomer111

You mean take a hammer to it, right! The shop that did my install told me to take a short walk that I did not want to see this part. LOL I think it is a common problem on the passenger side.

moog5050

that will do it

chaver450

Moog is right, it is rattling where the gas tank cover is. My installers already trimmed the piece on the passenger side near the collectors and we bent the attachment bolt flanges up but there is still a rattle occasionally. I'm curious about the silicone coupler... where to get it and what does it look like. Is that something a muffler shop would have?

Thanks for the help guys.

moog5050

Chaver

I think I got mine on ebay. It is a 2 1/2" coupler for turbo set ups. I cut it and wrapped it around the pipe and then just used a clamp over it to hold it in place. Be sure to place the clamp so that it does not rub against the tank cover. The coupler I have is about 1/2" from wrapping the pipe completely but just leave the gap facing the open area. Here is an example: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Ply...item3f03cc22aa

Good luck. I have had no issues with heat. It doesn't get that hot back there.

Neumonic2002

I should have remembered that spot as I too had to some "tapping" on the tab by the bolt. I think mine still hits every now and then, I plan to fix it for good next weekend when I switch over to NPP mufflers.

Thanks for the coupler tip!

chaver450

Great tip, thanks for the link. I'm on it!

rovers2000

that sounds like a real pain.

AR Headers

Guys, It's clearly stated in the instructions that minor clearancing of the sheet metal lip may be required as the lip protrudes inconsistantly from car to car. Bending the lip downwards slightly is easiest way to do it. Before the header is installed it takes less than a 30 seconds. Some prefer to trim back the lip slightly.

I'd like to explain why this is. In our quest to get our primaries as long and as equal length as possible while maintaining the desired length of our merge collectors and keep our X-pipe situated in a location where it works best, we had to place our collector there. Keep in mind that on certain C6's, trans cooler lines are located on the opposite side of the collector so we had to make clearance for that. With the lip protrusion being inconsistant from car to car and only being an issue mainly on the larger 1-7/8" primary headers, we felt that the occasional minor clearancing needed was well worth it.

Guys we've sold thousands of Corvette systems to date and as some will attest, we'll bend over backwards to make sure there's no issues with fit and quality. Thanks for hearing me out.

Nick

moog5050

Nick

You guys make a very good product and I wouldn't want any other header system. The x-pipe is very close to the gas tank cover and can cause some rattling if not addressed. This is most likely due to the fact that the x-pipe connectors remain 3" all the way back until the end where they reduce to 2 1/2" for the standard C6. I am not sure I would want to clearance the gas tank cover, but the coupler works fine and I prefer having the larger pipes all the way back. Near the collector, I agree that bending the sheet metal is a simple job. I would recommend ARH to anyone. Great quality. Thanks.

Brian

AR Headers

Brian, Thanks for the kind words. It sounds like that center section needs to be loosened, centered and retightened. There is adjustment in the system. Most of it comes right from the ball socket connections. The rest from the rotation and slip joint of the connection pipes.

Nick

moog5050

I'll try that. Thanks Nick

chaver450

Nick, I've tried loosening, bending, prying, tightening, and smashing (the fuel tank cover bolt housings). I even took it to my local speed shop and they couldn't get it right. I'm afraid to take it to the local muffler shop where "bubba" will take a jackhammer to it (maybe that's what it needs). Bottom line, there just isn't enough clearance on my car. I'm going to try the coupler idea so when it does rub, there is no metal to metal vibe. I hope it works cause that rattle is driving me freakin' nuts!

chaver450

just installed the coupler, I really hope this works.

Do you guys think I would lose performance going back to the stock 2 1/2 inch x-pipe? A little more back pressure may be a good thing...right?

moog5050

the coupler will work

mittens

grinder to the lip under passenger foot well. then repainted, never touches now.

filmjay

Had the same issue on the driver side gas tank heat shield too. Nothing a hammer or pry bar can't fix in about 30 seconds.

FloydSummerOf68

Don't be afraid of going to a good muffler shop (good being the key). They have all sorts of tricks to get things to work.

I had a muffler shop fix my x-pipe and it has worked great ever since.