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Another lowering question

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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #1  
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Default Another lowering question

I know, I know. Plenty of past threads on this but I have a question that I can not see an answer to in the many threads on file.
Got a new 2010 GS and lowered it as much as the stock screw/pad would allow on the rear. It resulted in only 3/8" of lowering. Have matched the front to this but it car is still too high for me. Front has enough adjustment of screws to get to as low as I want for the front but will need to cut rubber pad on rears or buy kit to match the front height. My question is -- To remove the adjusting screws from the rear spring can I just remove the inside A frame bolts and shock mount bolts on the rear A arms drop the A arm down and get enough clearance to remove the bolts?? Or, does the lower ball joint have to be popped? Has anyone ever cut the rubber pads while still attached to the spring without dropping the A arm? If so, what did you use to cut them? It looks like I can get enough by cutting the pads but still leaving plenty of rubber on the pad for cushion and wear so it would be neat to do it that way.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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You need pop the ball joint, but it really isn't a big deal. I would buy HardBar bolts and move one.

I will buy your old OE if you want to sell them off the rear.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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I did not like the way cut stock bushings left so little rubber on the end of the bolt and went with the ones from Hardbar. Absolutely the ones to get. DO NOT REMOVE THE LOWER ARM. It will possibly mess with the alignment big time. What I did after reading about it here was to unbolt the sway bar end link, the top of the shock, and the UPPER arm where it meets the frame. That will give you the extra down travel you need from the lower arm to get the stock bolt out without undoing any ball joints or bolts with cams on them. From what I saw there is no way to get a torque wrench on the ball joint nuts.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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dont forget to relieve the pressure on the spring, that will give you a bunch of clearance too...

btw i just cut my rears, but when it gets nice out again i'll install the hardbar bolts i have sitting here for the rear...fronts i used the hardbars and they did a nice job. i wish the rear was a taddddd lower. o well.

here you can see how low the rad air scoop is, it scrapes on everything. but its not the rad support, just the plastic so its not a big deal.

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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #5  
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From: Brentwood CA
Default lowering

Originally Posted by m R g S r
dont forget to relieve the pressure on the spring, that will give you a bunch of clearance too...

btw i just cut my rears, but when it gets nice out again i'll install the hardbar bolts i have sitting here for the rear...fronts i used the hardbars and they did a nice job. i wish the rear was a taddddd lower. o well.

here you can see how low the rad air scoop is, it scrapes on everything. but its not the rad support, just the plastic so its not a big deal.

How did you cut your rears?? Using what kind of saw and how did you get good access to the pad to do the sawing??
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #6  
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Most people cut the rears in the car with a cable saw for pvc pipe.
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