MGW shifter question. PLEASE HELP!!

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Oct 30, 2010 | 04:42 PM

#21

mannyg

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From: Phoenix AZ

Thanks Mez. Wish I would have read your step-by-step instrutions before reinstalling. I didn't realize there was an allignment hole at the front of the shifter box. Would you suggest I take the shifter box out again and make sure it's alligned before taking the car for a drive? Can any damage occur if it's not properly alligned, or will the handle just not be perpendicular to the shifter base? Before tightening the two bolts down I moved the shifter box back and forth until the handle looked perpendicular in neutral.

Last edited by mannyg; Oct 30, 2010 at 06:20 PM.

Oct 30, 2010 | 07:15 PM

#22

Mez

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Joined: Jun 1999

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From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannyg

Thanks Mez. Wish I would have read your step-by-step instructions before reinstalling. I didn't realize there was an alignment hole at the front of the shifter box. Would you suggest I take the shifter box out again and make sure it's aligned before taking the car for a drive? Can any damage occur if it's not properly aligned, or will the handle just not be perpendicular to the shifter base? Before tightening the two bolts down I moved the shifter box back and forth until the handle looked perpendicular in neutral.

No need to remove the box. Just loosen the two hold down bolts on the right, move the box around until the alignment pin drops in, then re-tighten the hold down bolts.

One more thing....I strongly suggest placing grade 8 washers under the heads of the mounting bolts and using Loc-tite on the threads. I have a stand-off right on my desk here that is cracked.

Oct 30, 2010 | 10:31 PM

#23

mannyg

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From: Phoenix AZ

Well, I ripped the car apart for the fifth time today and did what you said, except for the grade eight washers. I didn't have any. My only complaint for MGW is their shifter ****. I bought their "race ****" and found that after removing and reinstalling it a few times the plastic threads strip out easily and not crossthreading it was impossible. I was still able to get it on tight but it sits at a bit of an angle, which I don't even notice when driving. Thanks for the help Mez.

Oct 30, 2010 | 11:14 PM

#24

breecher_7

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Joined: Feb 2009

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From: Your Sister's Bedroom

Any thoughts on how you stop these things from rattling? Mine rattles HORRIBLY but works flawlessly, although the 2-3 upshift is a bit sticky when cold but that might have somthing to do with the 30 degree weather and 800 mile transmission.

Oct 30, 2010 | 11:43 PM

#25

mannyg

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From: Phoenix AZ

According to MGW the rattling is normal, especially under hard accelaration or in cold weather. They say they build the shifter this way so it's parts can expand when the transmission heats up. My previous shifter from Breathless Performance rattled for the first few thousand miles and then miraculously stopped rattling. Don't ask me why.

Oct 31, 2010 | 02:54 PM

#26

TTZ06VETTE

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From: Charlotte N.C.

Quote:

Originally Posted by breecher_7

I installed the c6box in my z06 first which helped a bit due to the rubber insulator bushings. Still got a rattle in 6th gear when cruising however. I ended up buying the threaded shaft and race **** from them. No more rattle!

Oct 31, 2010 | 07:17 PM

#27

breecher_7

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From: Your Sister's Bedroom

Quote:

Originally Posted by TTZ06VETTE

may have to look into that.... I get a bad rattle in all gears.

Oct 31, 2010 | 07:43 PM

#28

MarkRx

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Joined: Dec 2007

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From: Austin TX

been there done that, ended up doing back to stock. 07 z06, 08 c6 shift box, 08 shift lever, 08 ****, 08 boot, 08 closeout boot, and 2010 shift cover. no noise. make sure the shifter is in neutral and the rod that connects to the output shaft is in neutral also. bolt should align with the notch in the output shaft. turn it till it stops and torque it down a little more, this is the only bolt you really need to squeeze on.