Which aftermarket stall to use for my setup
#1
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Need your thoughts!!
I am leaning toward a Yank 3200 but open to ideas. I do plan to call the folks at Yank to get their thoughts. As I have read on the forum, they can help guide you to the right setup. I am very interested to hear from any forum members who actually have had to decide which after market stall to use.
I am interested in hearing from anyone but especially from those that have modified their car (cams, heads, headers etc) and have 425 – 475 RWHP. My car should idle at about 850 -900 rpm to get a smooth idle and reduce any tendency to surge at lower rpm. As you know at 900 the car pushes through the brakes a lot.
Here is what is installed, LG long tube (streets), VR, 160 thermostat, Comp Cam with spec’s of 224 /230 lift .581 /.592 LSA 115 (XR275HR), LS3 heads were hand polished and port matched to L76 intake. Heads installed with Manley Race Flo valves and Patriot Gold dual springs, UD pulley, 3.15 DTE Stage 3 gears. The A6 has been tuned but may need some adjustments after this install.
Compression is at about 10.90. The torque power curve was to be from about 2,500 to 5,000 but because of the intake / head setup with only 10.90 compression (goal was 11.25) the torque does not come on hard until 3,500 rpm and max's out at 5,200 rpm. HP continues to bulid to 6,300 and holds to shift at 6,800.
This is not a daily driver but needs to comfortable to drive on club events, etc.
What stall did you select for a similar setup?
Did you end up needing a transmission cooler?
What was the cost to install?
Any downsides?
I am leaning toward a Yank 3200 but open to ideas. I do plan to call the folks at Yank to get their thoughts. As I have read on the forum, they can help guide you to the right setup. I am very interested to hear from any forum members who actually have had to decide which after market stall to use.
I am interested in hearing from anyone but especially from those that have modified their car (cams, heads, headers etc) and have 425 – 475 RWHP. My car should idle at about 850 -900 rpm to get a smooth idle and reduce any tendency to surge at lower rpm. As you know at 900 the car pushes through the brakes a lot.
Here is what is installed, LG long tube (streets), VR, 160 thermostat, Comp Cam with spec’s of 224 /230 lift .581 /.592 LSA 115 (XR275HR), LS3 heads were hand polished and port matched to L76 intake. Heads installed with Manley Race Flo valves and Patriot Gold dual springs, UD pulley, 3.15 DTE Stage 3 gears. The A6 has been tuned but may need some adjustments after this install.
Compression is at about 10.90. The torque power curve was to be from about 2,500 to 5,000 but because of the intake / head setup with only 10.90 compression (goal was 11.25) the torque does not come on hard until 3,500 rpm and max's out at 5,200 rpm. HP continues to bulid to 6,300 and holds to shift at 6,800.
This is not a daily driver but needs to comfortable to drive on club events, etc.
What stall did you select for a similar setup?
Did you end up needing a transmission cooler?
What was the cost to install?
Any downsides?
Last edited by youout; 11-21-2010 at 07:49 AM.
#2
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I have a 3600 stall on my 418 LS3 (530 RWHP). I still need to have the shop retune the transmission, when I get the time. Right now, the car doesn't know what gear to be in at 40mph...wants to be in 6th which gives a lot of hesitation and bucking. At idle, it is close to factory...other than the lope from the cam. My 08 runs 10.9 in the quarter when it is cool outside, 11.0 in the heat.
#3
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If its a daily driver, go with the Yank 3200 but if you want to track the car get the Yank 3600.
My A6 only has headers, 3:15's, tune and my 1/8th mile times went from 8.00's to 7.40's with the 3600.
My A6 only has headers, 3:15's, tune and my 1/8th mile times went from 8.00's to 7.40's with the 3600.
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I've just finished installin a Yank 3600 w/ 476 RWHP. I had Toyo 888s on the rear......But I can't get traction from a stand still. So I have started the TRACTIONMONSTER mod. My car should be an absolute animal when this is done.
As it stands right now I can get traction groing from 5th gear to 2nd gear at about 50 mph, with my Toyo 888s...and it pulls HARD. But I need the traction monster mod to hookup from WOT at 0mph.
One benefite I've noticed from the stall is that the loping cam does not rock the car as much when sitting at a red light, but it still has the same loping sound. Transmisson shifts are alot smoother under 3600 rpms also.
As it stands right now I can get traction groing from 5th gear to 2nd gear at about 50 mph, with my Toyo 888s...and it pulls HARD. But I need the traction monster mod to hookup from WOT at 0mph.
One benefite I've noticed from the stall is that the loping cam does not rock the car as much when sitting at a red light, but it still has the same loping sound. Transmisson shifts are alot smoother under 3600 rpms also.
#5
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what about a transmission cooler for a after market stall?
I am in Iowa so temps outside get to 95+ in the summer. I do notice when I use the paddles a lot the trany temp will climb to 215+. i know this is not extreme but just wondered what increase in temps i might experience.
I am in Iowa so temps outside get to 95+ in the summer. I do notice when I use the paddles a lot the trany temp will climb to 215+. i know this is not extreme but just wondered what increase in temps i might experience.
#6
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what about a transmission cooler for a after market stall?
I am in Iowa so temps outside get to 95+ in the summer. I do notice when I use the paddles a lot the trany temp will climb to 215+. i know this is not extreme but just wondered what increase in temps i might experience.
I am in Iowa so temps outside get to 95+ in the summer. I do notice when I use the paddles a lot the trany temp will climb to 215+. i know this is not extreme but just wondered what increase in temps i might experience.
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#7
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get a b&m supercooler for a 25,000 GVW truck size. i have a yank 3600 in my 05. this is the cooler they reccomend. my temps on 95 degree days are about 190 tops at the dragstrip. DO INSTALL A COOLER !!! your trans will love you for it.
install it in series with your factory radiator cooler. make the new cooler the last one going back to the trans. run the bottom line out of the radiator to the new cooler. hope this helps ya...... one other thing, use -6 AN fittings and good high pressure hoses when you install it. ask me how i know
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#8
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The 3200 is a good all around converter and people have taken it well into 1.5 territory n/a
The 3600 will have a bit more punch but will also feel noticeably looser than the 3200 on the street. You will adapt to both, regardless of what you choose. Even with the 3200 the first time you drive it you'll think "wow, I have to give it a lot more gas"
If you've ever driven a high stall car you'll know what to expect.
The 3600 will have a bit more punch but will also feel noticeably looser than the 3200 on the street. You will adapt to both, regardless of what you choose. Even with the 3200 the first time you drive it you'll think "wow, I have to give it a lot more gas"
If you've ever driven a high stall car you'll know what to expect.
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The 3200 is a good all around converter and people have taken it well into 1.5 territory n/a
The 3600 will have a bit more punch but will also feel noticeably looser than the 3200 on the street. You will adapt to both, regardless of what you choose. Even with the 3200 the first time you drive it you'll think "wow, I have to give it a lot more gas"
If you've ever driven a high stall car you'll know what to expect.
The 3600 will have a bit more punch but will also feel noticeably looser than the 3200 on the street. You will adapt to both, regardless of what you choose. Even with the 3200 the first time you drive it you'll think "wow, I have to give it a lot more gas"
If you've ever driven a high stall car you'll know what to expect.
#10
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The 3200 is fine for a mostly street driven car...you'll be adapted to it within a week of driving and then you won't remember what it was like to drive the stock stall.
I have it with just intake and header-back exhaust and I can't hook up in 1st gear with my Nitto 555R Drag Radials from a strong launch. Best I have done is 1.70 leaving from idle...if I stall it up it blows the tires away, so I'll be moving to an ET Street Radial or Hoosier DR for the track.
I have it with just intake and header-back exhaust and I can't hook up in 1st gear with my Nitto 555R Drag Radials from a strong launch. Best I have done is 1.70 leaving from idle...if I stall it up it blows the tires away, so I'll be moving to an ET Street Radial or Hoosier DR for the track.
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Might want to get advice from Patrick G. He advises going with the Yank Pro 3400 258 mm vs. the 245 for street use. Bigger bands will last longer and hold better when locking under WOT. He says it doesn't have as much of that sluchy feeling under part throttle acceleration but still yields about the same performance.