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Knuckle/Spindle removal help?

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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Default Knuckle/Spindle removal help?

I am replacing my spindle, got everything off but it's still on the ball joint. Any good way of getting it off the ball joint without damaging the seal on it? I've got the bolt off already.

Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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loosen the ball joint nut, but do not remove it to protect the threads.hit the side of the knuckle sharply. this changes the taper shape on the inside of the knuckle. it should drop loose after a few whacks. there is a tool called a "press" that is in the shop manual, but you don't need it. never have had a problem doing it this way. there is a torque value when installing it back together. i believe it is 50 ft.lbs torque. hope this helps.......
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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I used a pickle fork. AutoZone will let you use one.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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Pickle fork works well, just be careful, as you can tear the boot.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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Default Tool

Originally Posted by snoopdan
I am replacing my spindle, got everything off but it's still on the ball joint. Any good way of getting it off the ball joint without damaging the seal on it? I've got the bolt off already.

Thanks
Male and female tapper works inline for a draw fit. Ideally, one needs to break the tapper fit inline to prevent damage to associated components. I make my own jacking screw to separate ball joint. A very common practice in the Toolmaking trade. Its relatively simple, using 2 5/8" long extension connecting nut along with matching thread grade eight 5/8" bolt (Center drill a dimple on the head of bolt to keep jacking bolt from sliding). Place one end of the extension nut on spindle for brace and the other end of bolt head on ball joint bolt, one wrench on extension nut and another wrench on head of jacking bolt; simply turn the bolt to back off and the mechanical advantage will do all the work for you, the joint will pop and everything comes loose all at the same time without any damage. Wear safety glasses! Hope that helps!
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by victorf
Male and female tapper works inline for a draw fit. Ideally, one needs to break the tapper fit inline to prevent damage to associated components. I make my own jacking screw to separate ball joint. A very common practice in the Toolmaking trade. Its relatively simple, using 2 5/8" long extension connecting nut along with matching thread grade eight 5/8" bolt (Center drill a dimple on the head of bolt to keep jacking bolt from sliding). Place one end of the extension nut on spindle for brace and the other end of bolt head on ball joint bolt, one wrench on extension nut and another wrench on head of jacking bolt; simply turn the bolt to back off and the mechanical advantage will do all the work for you, the joint will pop and everything comes loose all at the same time without any damage. Wear safety glasses! Hope that helps!
How much to make me one?
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Default Jacking Screw

Originally Posted by timd38
How much to make me one?
Right now I am in the middle of rebuilding four Keihin 39 FCR's for my 1990 FZR 1000. Pretty much done with the bike in another week. I will be glad to fab up one for you. Just for materials and postage. I am not in it for business. You need to wait until my bike is back on the road. However, if you like to try make one for yourself and you have problems following my post, you can PM me and I can help with whatever I can.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Thanks! I read the post a couple more time and I think I will try to build one in the morning!
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