Finished mine today...finally!

It's...quiet! But it sounds evil and it picked up a lot of midrange power. Those Callaway DD's really keep the db levels down.

The OBX LTs fit perfect and seem to work fantastic.

 

ahh OBX, nice. Did you need o2 extensions? did you through any codes? Does it come with cats or are they hollow pipe that look like cats?
Thanks

 

Thanks John, I'll have a good video some time this eek. I'm getting used to it though, my ife took it around the block so I could determine how loud it is on a scale of 1-10 and it's a 9-9.5.


Good job dude! The OBX look good too-

 

My "W" key is acting up-

 

Great write up man! This will really help me when time comes to install my headers. :thumb:

 

Very nice write up.

 

great pics

 

Oh yeah. I got my car back and it mysteriously got louder after the cam!!! Dang!! Before I used to cruise with my Fusions open ALL the time, only closing them when my GF got in the car. Now, I find myself closing them more often!!!

 

Revival of old, but just doing headers myself. Removing factory exhaust didn't take too long, probably 2.5 hours going slow. I did grind the weld off the factory clamps on the h-pipe to muffler section so I could reuse them. Factory header bolts were stupid hard, some kind of sealer or loctite on them. Driver side rear bolt was easier access from the bottom. New stuff going in tomorrow, so I'll update if there's anything else that might help.

BTW, the stainless steel American Racing entire exhaust weighs about as much as one of the factory manifolds.

 

Finished up today. Installed O2 sensors and extensions before starting. Had to use a oxygen sensor socket to remove from factory manifold. Passenger header went in easy, only had to disconnect sensor on oil pan and slid right in. Went in so easy, I had to think if it was right. I have an auto and it hit the trans lines. Left header bolts slightly loose so they were a little adjustable (highly recommended). Started from rear moving forward, muffler pipes went in smoothly, x-pipe was easy (header bolts were loose). O2 sensor connectors had to be moved slightly because I used 12" instead of 24". I'd recommend 24" if you want the connector to sit in the factory spot. Started her up with NPP exhaust closed and it was slightly louder than factory, but not much. Opened up the exhaust and it's really loud! Surprised it was such a huge difference.

Now for the bugs and do overs. First I tightened all the header bolts and tried to put the xpipe on. No go. Would fit upside down (o2 sensors facing down) but not the correct way. So I'm thinking...maybe it's right? Driver side piece to muffler was too short that way. So unbolt everything and try xpipe again. I swear the xpipe was bent out of shape or something how easy it would fit upside down but not the correct way. A bit of time and lots of frustration later, I googled instructions (bought a used set of ARH). Said start from muffler pieces and work forward with HEADER BOLTS LOOSE. Dammit, did I want to loosen those things again? Yeah, if this was going in, I was. Smooth as pie after that. Used a rubber mallet to help persuaded joints together. Screwdriver to bend trans lines that touched.

Side note, people have asked how high you need to jack it up. My jacks measured 14" up front and 13" in the back. I'm a little guy so that was plenty for me. Overall time including screw-ups was roughly 7 hours.