Here is my question, Competetive Driving mode does what? Allows more tire spin? And what is the difference between Drive and Sport Mode aside from Sport Mode allowing the use of the paddles?

The reason I am asking is that I took the vette out for a nice drive after everything that happened last week. New TSTAT, new Intake, new roof. I can definitely feel a difference with the butt dyno. The car pulls so much harder than before and it keeps on pulling and pulling which can be kinda scary when you see the needle hitting 140+.

Now I took off from a dead start rolled out and gunned it since its still 60 degrees outside and I don't want to be sliding all over the place. I was in Drive not Sport mode or Competetive Driving Mode and noticed that the traction control killed the throttle at around 100MPH! Never had traction issues there before so you can understand why I was a little freaked out.

Thanks ahead of time!

-Narsh

 

Active Handling applies a brake at a single wheel to help the yaw the car in the direction the driver is turning the steering wheel if the car isn't responding quick enough. Competition mode is a variation of Active Handling that has a larger dead band in its algorithm thus letting the driver throw the car around a little more in a corner. There is no traction control when the car is in Competition mode.
Bill

 

If you have other than stock size tires you could have a confused computer cutting power because it's reading the rear wheels turning much faster than the fronts.

 

My wheels are stock w/stock run flats so nothing different there.

To get this straight:

In Drive - Traction Control is on, active handling is on full, no paddles
IN Drive - w/Competetive Driving Mode, Active handling is on more lax, no paddles, No Traction Control
In Sport - w/Competetive Driving Mode, Active handling is on more lax, paddles engaged, No Traction Control

Sound about right?

 

C mode wont retard the engine and trans if you have it lit up. Today my tires spun a little from dirt and water and the whole car when into nanny mode grrr. ( I forgot to put it into C mode when I left the house )

TC wont let you shift for a couple seconds and spinning tires. Even if you are hooked back up. ( A6 paddles ) This is bad and unsafe IMO.

AH is good TC sucks. In rain all nannys on though.

 

I find myself driving more and more in S and Comp mode - even using the paddles. I hate the computer telling me what to do.

But I agree, in Rain all the nanny's are on.

 

wasn't there a rather large thread about this?

 

Sounds like you hit the rev limiter.

 

Nope, not the rev limiter at all. How would you hit the rev limiter in an auto? Not trying to be a smart *** but technically the rev limiter is set electronically no?

 

How to hit the rev limiter with an A6? Paddle to first gear, floor it and wait a (very) few seconds, you'll be bouncing off the limiter.
If you try a paddle shift too high an RPM you will hit the rev limiter. Electronic? Depends on your definition, the engine has to mechanically over rev before the electronics kick in and limit fuel and/or spark.

 

It is unbelievably easy to hit the rev-limiter in an A6 car (trust me on this, I am an expert on the subject).

The rev-limiter can be implemented in one of three ways - spark cut (ie. timing reduction), fuel cut or ETC (electronic throttle control). The default is usually via fuel cut (at least that's how it was in my 2007) but can be modified to be any combination of all three or none at all (which I wouldn't recommend).

The least obtrusive method is to use spark as it'll pull power and in some cases allow the car to shift without feeling like anything wrong even happened. I have it set up like this in my car and a few weeks ago at the track I bounced off the rev-limiter on the 1-2 shift and didn't even realize it until I came back around and looked at my scan.

The most obtrusive way is to use fuel cut because it ends up causing the car to buck like crazy as if it was running out of gas which I also happen to believe could potentially damage your engine.

In addition to the three methods noted above, there is a fourth method calling "Acceleration Based Limiting" which in a nutshell means that the faster you accelerate the more the car wants to go "Oh no, we're going too fast and have to slow it down!". In a totally stock car you probably won't encounter this very often but once you add a converter, gears (or in my case, both) it starts to become an issue. You can fortunately also turn this off in the tune.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation but I'm rather bored at work today and this just helped me get 5 minutes closer to quittin' time.

 

Not lengthy at all. I had no idea you could hit it like that.
In any case I was not at redline yet but I am not sure if my car has a tune on it or not. I have very little to compare it to, maybe my old stang but the vette is a heck of a lot faster.

 

You may have hit the acceleration based limiter as it'll kick in before your actual rev-limiter. Before I discovered this even existed I was pulling my hair out for weeks trying to find out why it felt like the rev-limiter was kicking in early and that ended up being the cause.

 

Guess I really need that tune then huh?