Brake Fluid DOT 3 vs DOT 4
I am considering the switch to DOT 4 after 6 years based on the higher boiling points.
In researching, the only negative I read was that the rubber componets may be use to DOT 3 and the switch could cause a leak or rubber component failure.
So.....
Has any forum member experienced a type of rubber component failure from a switch from 3 to 4?
(P.S. I have used Ford HD fluid over the Vert's life)

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...yesterday.html
DOT3 might come from the factory, but so do non-directional one-piece rotors. Doesn't mean you should use them if you have something better.
San





DOT3 might come from the factory, but so do non-directional one-piece rotors. Doesn't mean you should use them if you have something better.
San
with post stating NO PROBLEMS with DOT 4. It's reccommended if you track the car. However I bet you have not experienced any problems with DOT 3? Why I say that? If you have same fluid after 6 years and just now changing the fluid....that says you had NO ISSUE. So why switch? Obviously your not tracking your car or you would have changed it years ago. Yes, DOT 4 higher boiling point, but I just bet you have not come close to boiling DOT3 either. Or it would not have been there this long. Just a thought. There are NO issues with Z06's using DOT 4.
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you can use DOT 5.1 although

Dot 4 has higher boiling point over Dot 3, but Dot 3 is a little slower about moisture that is pulls from the air to have water in the fluid.
As for least expensive Dot4, and which has the highest dry boiling point when it comes to these least expensive types, its Preston Dot 4 at $12 a quart (enough to do a full brake flush every time, and which you should be doing every 2 years no matter what).
Yes, there are others that have a higher boiling point, but your looking at close to $75 for a quart of them instead.






13 year ago thread revival....awesome thank you.
FWIW. I never did change to Dot 4.
Have used - Ford Hi Performance Dot 3 fluid - every time.
Think I pay about $7 US at the dealer a pint, 4 pints per flush.
Mine is a street car, not necessarily "raced" around town.
Sadly, I never did buy a Tech II to open the ABS valves, I use the activate ABS method before and after a flush whether that helps clean or not.
No issues eg: rust, water, leaks, ABS faults.
PS: I use the two-person bleeding method, not a vacuum pump tool
















