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I have a 2011 6sp manual GS with the dual mode exhaust. Factory hp is rated at 436. What relatively simple ungrades are available to increase torque and bump the hp up closer to the 500hp mark? I'd be interested in hearing what others have done.
From: Cape May, NJ; Guntersville, AL; Orange Beach, AL
Originally Posted by NYC6
Strap on a blower and you're done. Relatively simple and be easily over 500rwhp.
Not really and "easy" way to pick up 70 HP. The easiest is to strap on a SC. If you want to do that NA get ready to tear into the engine and sacrifice some drivability. Then again if you really wanted 500+ HP the Z was there for the taking.....
I have a 2011 6sp manual GS with the dual mode exhaust. Factory hp is rated at 436. What relatively simple ungrades are available to increase torque and bump the hp up closer to the 500hp mark? I'd be interested in hearing what others have done.
With long tube headers, x-pipe with high flow cats and an axle back you can expect to see increases in the high 30 to low 40 horsepower range. Add a intake and a good tune and you will be getting close. You can read more about our headers and exhaust at www.bbexhaust.com or contact us directly.
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David Merkel
Marketing Dir.
Billy Boat Exhaust
I just purchased a set of 1 7\8" ARH. Anything north of 400RWHP and I'll be stoked. I would start with the usual bolt ons, CAI/CB/Tune and see where that gets you.
I have a 2011 6sp manual GS with the dual mode exhaust. Factory hp is rated at 436. What relatively simple ungrades are available to increase torque and bump the hp up closer to the 500hp mark? I'd be interested in hearing what others have done.
No simple, cheap or easy way to gain 65hp. You do realize this may kill your reliability?
Full exhaust, intake, tune....around 420rwhp 420rwtq give or take...Thats more than plenty to have fun on the street...
Then add a 100 shot of nitrous for 500+rwhp and more than 550+rwtq....When you want to run with the big dogs...well bigger dogs lol
all this can cost around 3.5k if you shop around and do the install yourself...
reliablitly won't be a problem with the full exhaust and tune. The juice will only be use once in a while and is not any more risky than adding a supercharger.
Last edited by MikeSVT04; Feb 15, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
air in air out...
do the bolt ons or the E-force does supercharger does come with a supplemental warranty on the engine that covers 5k or so of the repair which would rebuild the block if something went wrong.
Easiest way to 500 rwhp is the E-Force or similar.. not sure if the others offer a warranty..Keep it tuned under Edebrocks requirements and your more than likely going to be fine for a while... there is a risk involved though and you should educated yourself on that if you decide to go with forced induction. we do offer the Edelbrock E-Force for a great deal with free shipping to the lower 48.
For the same price as the E-Force we offer a forged 416 long-block using your block and head core to make 500+... and it will be a more dependable setup. We massage the heads, forged and stroke the bottom end, beef up the valve-train and add a timing set, oil pump and cam and deliver a precision built 416 pavement ripping combination.
You will need the bolt ons though... cai headers cat-back.. but as stated warranty comes into play
It seems that the OP is interested in crank horsepower not rear wheel horsepower. As has been previously mentioned if you add good long tube headers with high flow cats, a cold air intake and a decent tune you will get around 420 to 425 HP and torque at the rear wheels with a manual transmission and some cool weather. That puts you at about 480 horsepower at the crank. So if you add a ported factory intake and throttle body to the above mix you should be around 490 to 500 at the crank. That's pretty close.