Got a P1153 code last night (suggestions)?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Wenonah NJ
Got a P1153 code last night (suggestions)?
My check engine light went on last night. I was driving with my pregnant wife so I was granny shifting, etc. In other words I wasn't driving the card hard at the time.
I did however sit idling at my parents house for about 5 minutes before we left- I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
Anyway, I sold my old MSD Dashhawk a few years back when I sold my Mazdaspeed3 so I had no way to check the code myself. I went to a local Advance Auto Parts and had them scan for the code. A "P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor Insufficient, Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1" came up.
Reading up about it via the search function here it's apparently a common code for cars running LT headers, which I do have. If that is the case- what's the best method to 1. Clear it and 2. Keep it off?
I'm sure I could remove the battery for a few minutes then reconnect but I don't want to do this each time it shows back up (if it does). Plus, this may sound like a stupid question but removing the battery won't have an effect on my ECS tune will it?
Can ECS tune this issue out? And if so do you have to request it?
Lastly does anyone use the MSD Dashhawk to read/clear codes on their C6?
I did however sit idling at my parents house for about 5 minutes before we left- I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
Anyway, I sold my old MSD Dashhawk a few years back when I sold my Mazdaspeed3 so I had no way to check the code myself. I went to a local Advance Auto Parts and had them scan for the code. A "P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor Insufficient, Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1" came up.
Reading up about it via the search function here it's apparently a common code for cars running LT headers, which I do have. If that is the case- what's the best method to 1. Clear it and 2. Keep it off?
I'm sure I could remove the battery for a few minutes then reconnect but I don't want to do this each time it shows back up (if it does). Plus, this may sound like a stupid question but removing the battery won't have an effect on my ECS tune will it?
Can ECS tune this issue out? And if so do you have to request it?
Lastly does anyone use the MSD Dashhawk to read/clear codes on their C6?
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Ok, sensor 1 is NOT to be tuned out. It is the sensor taking the reading for the A/F adjustment.
You will NOT lose your ECS tune by removing the battery leads.
The LT headers usually throw the Sensor #2 for the insufficient switching.
Replacing the O2 sensor is very easy on either sensor #1. You just need a cold engine & exhaust, the proper sized socket (special one with a slot in it) and strong arms to remove it from the manifold. You can see #1 on both sides with the hood up. Bank #2 is the passenger side.
Elmer
You will NOT lose your ECS tune by removing the battery leads.
The LT headers usually throw the Sensor #2 for the insufficient switching.
Replacing the O2 sensor is very easy on either sensor #1. You just need a cold engine & exhaust, the proper sized socket (special one with a slot in it) and strong arms to remove it from the manifold. You can see #1 on both sides with the hood up. Bank #2 is the passenger side.
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Mar 13, 2011 at 03:55 PM.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Wenonah NJ
Hey Elmer, thank you kindly for the reply. So you don't think it's because of my headers this code is being tripped. You think it's a bad sensor that needs to be replaced or even an exhaust leak?
Last edited by arcticZ51; Mar 13, 2011 at 04:42 PM.
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If the front O2 is bad, then it might be the "Air leak" item in the material I posted. LTs usually **** off the rear O2 sensors because they are moved back away from the heat source and they don't heat up in the normal amount of time. Your headers might BE the cause but you need to check things out to be sure of the exact reason for the code. Don't just toss an O2 sensor in there without checking the wiring for damage or air leaks at the LT connections.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 915
Likes: 5
From: Wenonah NJ
If the front O2 is bad, then it might be the "Air leak" item in the material I posted. LTs usually **** off the rear O2 sensors because they are moved back away from the heat source and they don't heat up in the normal amount of time. Your headers might BE the cause but you need to check things out to be sure of the exact reason for the code. Don't just toss an O2 sensor in there without checking the wiring for damage or air leaks at the LT connections.
Thank you again, much appreciated!
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The hyperlinks are dead because I downloaded and captured those screens from the Helms disc that I bought.
I would get the car up in the air and check the bolts for the intake and collector to see if they are tight. Do you hear any ticking sounds? That might be a manifold gasket blown out or a loose bolt holding the headers to the manifold. Hell, check any bolt on the exhaust to make sure it is tight.
I would get the car up in the air and check the bolts for the intake and collector to see if they are tight. Do you hear any ticking sounds? That might be a manifold gasket blown out or a loose bolt holding the headers to the manifold. Hell, check any bolt on the exhaust to make sure it is tight.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
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From: Dallas / Ft. Worth The Republic of TEXAS
Even if the exhaust is tight you may still get P1133 and P1153. I recommend your tuner just turn them off - of course I have to assume your exhaust is installed properly. That said I have seen plenty of cars with no leaks throw these codes which is why they should be turned off.
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Moderator emeritus
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Even if the exhaust is tight you may still get P1133 and P1153. I recommend your tuner just turn them off - of course I have to assume your exhaust is installed properly. That said I have seen plenty of cars with no leaks throw these codes which is why they should be turned off.
This is the the code for the front sensor. I'm not sure turning it off is the best option.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Santa Barbara CA
He is not talking about turning off all of the front oxygen sensor codes, just this one that relates to "flagging" or "switching" time. There would still be codes possible for the heater circuits, signal, short circuit, etc.
Drifting
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From: Dallas / Ft. Worth The Republic of TEXAS
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Wenonah NJ
Awesome- thanks guys! I may schedule to have them disable them in the tune. Meanwhile is there an OBDII scanner recommended for an 09 Coupe just to clear them in the meantime.
If it's cleared and, say, only comes back once in a blue moon. No sweat I'll just clear it. If it keeps coming back I'll definitely have ECS disable the switching code. Thank you again everyone!!!!
If it's cleared and, say, only comes back once in a blue moon. No sweat I'll just clear it. If it keeps coming back I'll definitely have ECS disable the switching code. Thank you again everyone!!!!
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My check engine light went on last night. I was driving with my pregnant wife so I was granny shifting, etc. In other words I wasn't driving the card hard at the time.
I did however sit idling at my parents house for about 5 minutes before we left- I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
Anyway, I sold my old MSD Dashhawk a few years back when I sold my Mazdaspeed3 so I had no way to check the code myself. I went to a local Advance Auto Parts and had them scan for the code. A "P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor Insufficient, Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1" came up.
Reading up about it via the search function here it's apparently a common code for cars running LT headers, which I do have. If that is the case- what's the best method to 1. Clear it and 2. Keep it off?
I'm sure I could remove the battery for a few minutes then reconnect but I don't want to do this each time it shows back up (if it does). Plus, this may sound like a stupid question but removing the battery won't have an effect on my ECS tune will it?
Can ECS tune this issue out? And if so do you have to request it?
Lastly does anyone use the MSD Dashhawk to read/clear codes on their C6?
I did however sit idling at my parents house for about 5 minutes before we left- I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
Anyway, I sold my old MSD Dashhawk a few years back when I sold my Mazdaspeed3 so I had no way to check the code myself. I went to a local Advance Auto Parts and had them scan for the code. A "P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor Insufficient, Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1" came up.
Reading up about it via the search function here it's apparently a common code for cars running LT headers, which I do have. If that is the case- what's the best method to 1. Clear it and 2. Keep it off?
I'm sure I could remove the battery for a few minutes then reconnect but I don't want to do this each time it shows back up (if it does). Plus, this may sound like a stupid question but removing the battery won't have an effect on my ECS tune will it?
Can ECS tune this issue out? And if so do you have to request it?
Lastly does anyone use the MSD Dashhawk to read/clear codes on their C6?
This is not a consistent code to come up from headers, but it does from time to time. For some reason more so in the new Camaro's.
I generally do not like to turn off any of the front O2 codes or the "bank x rich or lean" codes which many shops do. They are there for a reason, and aid with diagnosing real problems. However, sometimes what happens from the installation of headers is that the o2 takes too long to heat up being farther downstream, and not in a heavy cast manifold anymore. It can be a heater element starting to fail, or an o2 going "lazy", but sometimes the o2 is fine and you are left with three options. Unfortunately this is not common enough to just shut that code off on every car, I only see it a couple of times per year at best, yet we install headers practically daily.
If you have the proper diagnostic equipment to know the o2 is starting to fail then replace it, or just try replacing it, but I personally do not like "throwing parts at a problem", however in this case they are cheap enough that it wouldn't be that bad to try it. You can raise the temperature in which the ECM will start doing it's diagnostics on the o2's so the are heated more, or you can shut that one code off.
Let us know if we can help in anyway.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 915
Likes: 5
From: Wenonah NJ
This is not a consistent code to come up from headers, but it does from time to time. For some reason more so in the new Camaro's.
I generally do not like to turn off any of the front O2 codes or the "bank x rich or lean" codes which many shops do. They are there for a reason, and aid with diagnosing real problems. However, sometimes what happens from the installation of headers is that the o2 takes too long to heat up being farther downstream, and not in a heavy cast manifold anymore. It can be a heater element starting to fail, or an o2 going "lazy", but sometimes the o2 is fine and you are left with three options. Unfortunately this is not common enough to just shut that code off on every car, I only see it a couple of times per year at best, yet we install headers practically daily.
If you have the proper diagnostic equipment to know the o2 is starting to fail then replace it, or just try replacing it, but I personally do not like "throwing parts at a problem", however in this case they are cheap enough that it wouldn't be that bad to try it. You can raise the temperature in which the ECM will start doing it's diagnostics on the o2's so the are heated more, or you can shut that one code off.
Let us know if we can help in anyway.
I generally do not like to turn off any of the front O2 codes or the "bank x rich or lean" codes which many shops do. They are there for a reason, and aid with diagnosing real problems. However, sometimes what happens from the installation of headers is that the o2 takes too long to heat up being farther downstream, and not in a heavy cast manifold anymore. It can be a heater element starting to fail, or an o2 going "lazy", but sometimes the o2 is fine and you are left with three options. Unfortunately this is not common enough to just shut that code off on every car, I only see it a couple of times per year at best, yet we install headers practically daily.
If you have the proper diagnostic equipment to know the o2 is starting to fail then replace it, or just try replacing it, but I personally do not like "throwing parts at a problem", however in this case they are cheap enough that it wouldn't be that bad to try it. You can raise the temperature in which the ECM will start doing it's diagnostics on the o2's so the are heated more, or you can shut that one code off.
Let us know if we can help in anyway.
Excellent- thanks Doug. At this point I'm just looking to clear it and wait and see if it's a chronic issue. If it goes away, or takes a few months to return I'm fine with just clearing when it comes up. So long as it's the same code and not indicative of harm being done to my engine as a result.
Any word on the best method to clear it short of simply removing the battery lead(s)? TIA
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Excellent- thanks Doug. At this point I'm just looking to clear it and wait and see if it's a chronic issue. If it goes away, or takes a few months to return I'm fine with just clearing when it comes up. So long as it's the same code and not indicative of harm being done to my engine as a result.
Any word on the best method to clear it short of simply removing the battery lead(s)? TIA
Any word on the best method to clear it short of simply removing the battery lead(s)? TIA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
Excellent- thanks Doug. At this point I'm just looking to clear it and wait and see if it's a chronic issue. If it goes away, or takes a few months to return I'm fine with just clearing when it comes up. So long as it's the same code and not indicative of harm being done to my engine as a result.
Any word on the best method to clear it short of simply removing the battery lead(s)? TIA
Any word on the best method to clear it short of simply removing the battery lead(s)? TIA
I'd recommend buying an inexpensive OBD2 code reader. I have this Matco reader (MC200) that I keep in the glove box if something pops up. It was not expensive, but gives good descriptions of the fault and has worked well for me on both my C6 and my BMW.
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...=2342&page=4&#
