What is the best way to remove glazing on new rotors and pads (slotted rotors and Hawk HPS)?

I tried rebedding them but no luck. I think some of the issue is the zinc coating that was on the rotors.

Thanks

 

What have you done so far?

How are they acting that you believe they need to remove glazing?

 

We used to take them off and scuff pads and the rotors up with sandpaper, reinstall, then a proper rebedding.

 

MEZ - So far all I have done is the bedding in process, once after install and agian yesterday. I just installed them this past weekend and haven't had time to take them off and do anything futher.

The brakes have become inconsistent in feel, and when had to stand on them yesterday (damn guy on his phone) coming home there was no urgency in them stopping me. When I got home I took a look and the rotors are kind of blackish through the center of the contact patch with a shine to them. Got to work this morning and they look the same.

NYC6 - I was thinking of using sand paper or steel wool but wasn't sure if that would do it. I'll have to give it a try, if that doesn't work I guess i can always have the rotors turned. Just hate to do that on new ones.

 

When you say remove new glazing are you just talking about the coating that comes on new rotors with zinc coating? If so, I believe you just have to drive the car normally and this will wear off after several hundred miles. I was looking at new rotors and the mfgr told me that after driving several hundred miles the coating would start to wear off and appear like normal rotors. DO NOT take sand paper to new rotors.

 

I used sandpaper and sanding block.

 

No, the glazing is not the Zinc coating, I don't believe. That wore off fairly completely in a couple days. But I guess it could be some of the coating that transfer to the pads is now wearing off onto the rotors and needs a final burn off. Maybe I need to be a little more patient. I'll take some pictures tonight and try to post them.

 

I have used the Carroll Smith brake bedding procedure on dozens of different cars with great success.

Depending on the condition of the pads, the improvement can be night-and-day. I had an Alfa with an otherwise functional braking system that was so dangerous it could barely engage ABS in the wet. After a short break-in sequence, it was able to lock 'em up on hot, dry asphalt.

On the C6 OEM pads/rotors, the difference is much less dramatic. Haven't tried it on the Hawks.

It's imperative that you find someplace where there's nobody else around and that you really go for it. A whiff of burning pads isn't a bad thing. Just let them cool a little between runs and don't come to a complete stop.

Oh, and take everything out of the back or else all of it will end up on the dashboard.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I was thinking that might be the issue and you were just worried about the look but sounds like you really might have a different issue going on. I haven't heard that the zinc could transfer to the pads then cause issues but I'm not certain. I would suggest calling Hawk and the rotor mfgr and see where that gets you. I wouldn't do anything too risky yet as this might be a simple fix with the right knowhow. Good Luck.

 

I had a simliar type glazing issue after a new brake install with drilled Brembo discs and Hawk HP pads. I called one of buds at the Chevrolet place and he said to take my car out into a parking lot and lock it down about 3 to 4 times @ 35mph. Sounds crazy, but it worked, no more issues.
Mke C

 

Thats pretty much what 'bedding' the brakes are, which he did.

 

If you decide to do any sanding, check this info first:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ng-rotors.html

 

"Bedding" means different things to different people. TXAtomic described their lack of urgency when he had to "stand on them yesterday," but not how well they performed when he stood on them (repeatedly) during bedding, so I'm not sure what he means.

 

That's not really bedding. The following will properly bed your brakes and take off glazing.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

 

This is what I use to scuff rotors. It works very well and is easy to use. Chuck it up in a drill and your done in about 4 minutes.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=16486

 

How are you bedding them? I don't care for the coated rotors. you should have pretty good stoping with HPS.