I love my 4.10's
04-29-2011, 03:57 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
I love my 4.10's
A few weeks ago I received a Stage 3 rear from RPM with 4.10's. I haven't really driven the car since I put it in due to the crappy weather. I did take the car out today for a little drive and all I can say is I love them. The car car pulls much harder from every rpm point and it makes the car much easier to drive especially with a big cam. Traction isn't to much of an issue at my power even on street tires. From a second gear roll it spins some but with some throttle correlation she'll grab traction. The people who say 4.10's are to much gear must have never had them, maybe with a blower car but an N/A car there wonderful and the General should have stuck at least 3.90's in there from the factory it makes the car feel much faster.
04-29-2011, 11:49 PM
#3
Tech Contributor
You likely just took .3 secs off your 0-60 times. I was at 2.4 to 60 with MT ET streets. It doesnt just feel faster as some need to use as an excuse to not get them. It is faster.
04-30-2011, 11:53 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
04-30-2011, 03:27 PM
#8
Tech Contributor
The fastest cars on the H/C list are using 4.10's with a taller sidewall tire. Traction is far better with a 28" than a 26".
04-30-2011, 04:54 PM
#10
Instructor
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A few weeks ago I received a Stage 3 rear from RPM with 4.10's. I haven't really driven the car since I put it in due to the crappy weather. I did take the car out today for a little drive and all I can say is I love them. The car car pulls much harder from every rpm point and it makes the car much easier to drive especially with a big cam. Traction isn't to much of an issue at my power even on street tires. From a second gear roll it spins some but with some throttle correlation she'll grab traction. The people who say 4.10's are to much gear must have never had them, maybe with a blower car but an N/A car there wonderful and the General should have stuck at least 3.90's in there from the factory it makes the car feel much faster.
Thanks in advance.
04-30-2011, 05:02 PM
#11
Race Director
Sounds like a great mod! I have heard time and time again that 4.10s are a bit overbearing for anything more than 500 rwhp. Any truth in that?
How much HP you have?
What tires are you running?
How much HP you have?
What tires are you running?
04-30-2011, 05:07 PM
#12
Race Director
Save yourself headache and let a professional shop do a complete overhaul and component upgrade, trading in you working Diff.
Depending on upgrades $1,800 +\-.
Depending on upgrades $1,800 +\-.
04-30-2011, 06:36 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
05-01-2011, 06:46 AM
#14
Tech Contributor
05-02-2011, 02:08 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
I had read somewhere about 4.10's giving you more traction...notice any difference?
How about on aggressive 2nd or 3rd gear corner exits?
How about on aggressive 2nd or 3rd gear corner exits?
05-02-2011, 02:24 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
I thing the rear was $2700 + core, but it also built. As far as traction goes im on nitto invo's and it isnt bad at all. If I roll into the throttle in second gear it will hook up if I mash it, it'll spin. I'm at 440whp. I havent put on my mickeys yet to really try it out but planning on going to the track in a week or so.
05-02-2011, 04:26 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2010
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I was thinking about 4.10's when I upgrade the diff after I go FI but I think I might go with something a little closer to the stock gears simply from a traction stand point (3.90's maybe). I have heard that for a mostly stock or bolt on's car the 4.10 is amazing. Makes the car feel 500 pounds lighter. Enjoy your new diff.
05-02-2011, 05:53 PM
#18
Tech Contributor
Anyone with a diesel truck making insane TQ will tell you that while their truck can do a 4 wheel burnout, it cant do it in 4 low. In 4 low with gearing thats like 12:1 on your corvette, the rate of rotation is so slow that the rate of tire rotation isnt able to outpace the acceleration curve of the car.
The big advocates that agree with your statement that gears hurt traction always comes from gurus running automatic transmissions with big FI power running 1.3x sixty foots and 9 second passes. Their cars run a big stall in the 3600 to 3800rpm range. Gears make your car faster by getting you to a higher rpm faster thus making more HP sooner. Well, big stalls get you in the high 3000's rpms instantly giving you the big benefit from gears without needing them. Since these mods mimic the same function it stands to reason that they wont both be needed. M6 cars on the other hand, always have better ET's with gears as long as the gear you chose allows the trap speed you need before you hit redline in 4th gear.
In the end you choose gears by required trap speed only. If your car will trap 128 or lower, you use 4.10's. If you're in the mid to high 130's you use 4.10's with a 28" tire as the fastest H/C cars do or use 3.90's with a 26" tire. 4.10's with a 28" tire are easier on the driveline because the sidewall acts to absorb some shock. 3.73's are going to get you 140's and 3.42's get you 153 or so. Not having the right gear hurts performance because you never hit max power in the top of 4th gear.
My car had 4.10's on a Z51 with 959rwhp which at my altitude equates to about 750rwhp at sea level. With MT ET streets, I had great traction to the tune of 0-60 in 2.4 seconds (scans). You choose your tire, then your gear and stop adding power when you can get it to the ground anymore. You dont run a street tire with 700rwhp and expect good traction by handicapping gears. Such cars have poor 60' and 0-60 times yet get great rap speeds by making it up after the 1/8 mile is covered on the back end of the 1/4.
If you break loose with 4.10's it rehooks in far less rotations than 3.42's because the tire is spinning at a slower speed. If you're spinning in 1st, your tires suks. Going with taller gears in that case doesnt get you stellar 60 foots; it gets you the same result as if you started in 2nd gear by handicapping TQ multiplication.
In the end I know there will always be the guy with nitto Invos on his 20" bling rims with 800rwhp blaming gears for the lack of traction.
Last edited by SpinMonster; 05-02-2011 at 06:03 PM.
05-02-2011, 08:27 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
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Gears like any mod that makes you faster will have a downside. You cant add 100hp to your car and expect that traction on a given tire will still accept the strain of holding the ground without limit. The tire is what is wrong in that case or at least a mismatch between tire and power. Handicapping gears because your tire breaks traction wont make the tire hold more power. The tires' limit in acceleration is what it is. More power and less gear isnt making you faster unless you are the roll-on race king.
Anyone with a diesel truck making insane TQ will tell you that while their truck can do a 4 wheel burnout, it cant do it in 4 low. In 4 low with gearing thats like 12:1 on your corvette, the rate of rotation is so slow that the rate of tire rotation isnt able to outpace the acceleration curve of the car.
The big advocates that agree with your statement that gears hurt traction always comes from gurus running automatic transmissions with big FI power running 1.3x sixty foots and 9 second passes. Their cars run a big stall in the 3600 to 3800rpm range. Gears make your car faster by getting you to a higher rpm faster thus making more HP sooner. Well, big stalls get you in the high 3000's rpms instantly giving you the big benefit from gears without needing them. Since these mods mimic the same function it stands to reason that they wont both be needed. M6 cars on the other hand, always have better ET's with gears as long as the gear you chose allows the trap speed you need before you hit redline in 4th gear.
In the end you choose gears by required trap speed only. If your car will trap 128 or lower, you use 4.10's. If you're in the mid to high 130's you use 4.10's with a 28" tire as the fastest H/C cars do or use 3.90's with a 26" tire. 4.10's with a 28" tire are easier on the driveline because the sidewall acts to absorb some shock. 3.73's are going to get you 140's and 3.42's get you 153 or so. Not having the right gear hurts performance because you never hit max power in the top of 4th gear.
My car had 4.10's on a Z51 with 959rwhp which at my altitude equates to about 750rwhp at sea level. With MT ET streets, I had great traction to the tune of 0-60 in 2.4 seconds (scans). You choose your tire, then your gear and stop adding power when you can get it to the ground anymore. You dont run a street tire with 700rwhp and expect good traction by handicapping gears. Such cars have poor 60' and 0-60 times yet get great rap speeds by making it up after the 1/8 mile is covered on the back end of the 1/4.
If you break loose with 4.10's it rehooks in far less rotations than 3.42's because the tire is spinning at a slower speed. If you're spinning in 1st, your tires suks. Going with taller gears in that case doesnt get you stellar 60 foots; it gets you the same result as if you started in 2nd gear by handicapping TQ multiplication.
In the end I know there will always be the guy with nitto Invos on his 20" bling rims with 800rwhp blaming gears for the lack of traction.
Anyone with a diesel truck making insane TQ will tell you that while their truck can do a 4 wheel burnout, it cant do it in 4 low. In 4 low with gearing thats like 12:1 on your corvette, the rate of rotation is so slow that the rate of tire rotation isnt able to outpace the acceleration curve of the car.
The big advocates that agree with your statement that gears hurt traction always comes from gurus running automatic transmissions with big FI power running 1.3x sixty foots and 9 second passes. Their cars run a big stall in the 3600 to 3800rpm range. Gears make your car faster by getting you to a higher rpm faster thus making more HP sooner. Well, big stalls get you in the high 3000's rpms instantly giving you the big benefit from gears without needing them. Since these mods mimic the same function it stands to reason that they wont both be needed. M6 cars on the other hand, always have better ET's with gears as long as the gear you chose allows the trap speed you need before you hit redline in 4th gear.
In the end you choose gears by required trap speed only. If your car will trap 128 or lower, you use 4.10's. If you're in the mid to high 130's you use 4.10's with a 28" tire as the fastest H/C cars do or use 3.90's with a 26" tire. 4.10's with a 28" tire are easier on the driveline because the sidewall acts to absorb some shock. 3.73's are going to get you 140's and 3.42's get you 153 or so. Not having the right gear hurts performance because you never hit max power in the top of 4th gear.
My car had 4.10's on a Z51 with 959rwhp which at my altitude equates to about 750rwhp at sea level. With MT ET streets, I had great traction to the tune of 0-60 in 2.4 seconds (scans). You choose your tire, then your gear and stop adding power when you can get it to the ground anymore. You dont run a street tire with 700rwhp and expect good traction by handicapping gears. Such cars have poor 60' and 0-60 times yet get great rap speeds by making it up after the 1/8 mile is covered on the back end of the 1/4.
If you break loose with 4.10's it rehooks in far less rotations than 3.42's because the tire is spinning at a slower speed. If you're spinning in 1st, your tires suks. Going with taller gears in that case doesnt get you stellar 60 foots; it gets you the same result as if you started in 2nd gear by handicapping TQ multiplication.
In the end I know there will always be the guy with nitto Invos on his 20" bling rims with 800rwhp blaming gears for the lack of traction.
05-03-2011, 01:55 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
Anyone with a diesel truck making insane TQ will tell you that while their truck can do a 4 wheel burnout, it cant do it in 4 low. In 4 low with gearing thats like 12:1 on your corvette, the rate of rotation is so slow that the rate of tire rotation isnt able to outpace the acceleration curve of the car.
Spin, I'm already at about 2000rpm in 6th gear @ 80mph on the fwy. Where in comparison would I be at with 3.90's or 4.10's?
I believe stock Z51 is 3.42...so would that mean a difference of either 14% or 20%? Approx. 2300 or 2400rpm?
I just checked, my rear tire height is only 26.3
