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Ok, back in the day, I had a Vega with a small block and nitrous. i used studs instead of bolts for the heads because my engine builder told me that they were better than bolts.
I am upgrading the top half of my LS2 with LS3 ported heads, FAST intake, rockers, cam, etc. OE head bolts are $50, ARP bolts are $100 and ARP studs are $250. Is it really worth $200 more to use studs over stock head bolts?
The studs offer better clamping force and a more accurate torque spec since you are just torquing the nut rather than the shank of the bolt. On a NA application, the GM bolts are fine in most cases. If you think you might pull the heads off or just aren't a fan of the torque to yield bolts, the ARP bolts are a nice upgrade. I wouldn't worry about studs unless you are planning on a power adder on the car. IMO, they aren't needed and a little costly in a NA application.
The studs offer better clamping force and a more accurate torque spec since you are just torquing the nut rather than the shank of the bolt. On a NA application, the GM bolts are fine in most cases. If you think you might pull the heads off or just aren't a fan of the torque to yield bolts, the ARP bolts are a nice upgrade. I wouldn't worry about studs unless you are planning on a power adder on the car. IMO, they aren't needed and a little costly in a NA application.
Jon
Thank you very much. Your explanation is exactly what I was looking for.
Have to agree with TSP, the factory TTY bolts would be fine .. so the ARP headbolts are more than enough.. given the choice the ARP are easier to use as well... your looking at $44 for factory TTY bolts or 125-135 for ARP
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