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Battery
Power wire to the solenoid
Power wire from alt near #1 plug wire
Horn works fine
and...
It only happens while coming to a stop or sitting still. The alternator show between 13.4-14.1 volts depending on the heat of the car.
Now my question-
I do have TR6's so the last thing I need to swap would be the plugs, back to AC Delco.
Has anyone swapped to Autolite or another brand or is AC Delco the only option to get rid of the light?
If so, does anyone know exactly what part number for AC Delco is for the TR6 equivilant?
I know 4177 is the TR6 part number but I can't find a cross refrence for the AC Delco? I'm searching now but I kind of need an answer today of anyone wants to help. Could I just run the AC Delco LS7 plug, part number (AC Delco 41-104)??
I'm having the same problem! I also installed a 25% underdrive pulley and EWP at the same time as my cam swap. I installed a new battery and newTR55 plugs were installed at the time of the cam install and I still have the same problem. This is not a constant problem but it does occur a few times a week. I'm going to change the plugs back to stock AC's and see what happens.
Installed ZR1 plugs today (AC Delco 41-104's IIRC) and the SCS light is out and my idle voltage has gone from 11.7-12.0 (with TR6 copper) up to 14.3-14.5 with this being the only change.
Really strange how some have issues with plugs and others don't? I've run TR6's with MSD wires for 40k miles with no SCS problems (other than a bad connection at the selenoid). I'd be interested to know what wires those that trace the problem to plugs are using?
Really strange how some have issues with plugs and others don't? I've run TR6's with MSD wires for 40k miles with no SCS problems (other than a bad connection at the selenoid). I'd be interested to know what wires those that trace the problem to plugs are using?
Forgot to mention that-
I just relocated to Ga so I forgot to mention I installed a set of MSD wires hoping it would affect it....nope. As soon as I started the car up (actually about 30 sec in) the SCS light came on (with TR6 coppers).
The only change in the last month was the AC Delco 41-104's.
Alternator wire (good)
Solenoid (good)
My previous 2 C6's (same UD pulley) did not have this problem so.......
I do notice that my current 06 C6 has the normal stamped alternator pulley and my 2 previous C6's had the clutch type alternator pulley....all I can even think of-
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Hmmmm! I've seen this message a couple of times since I got the car back last week.
I've been reading this forum for years. I've never seen anyone come up with a fix for this, when it happens after installation of a underdrive pulley, except for turning off the code. I did that years ago and I don't miss that super loud binging from the warning one bit. And I haven't have any ill effects, my battery doesn't go dead, my car starts, etc.
My car didn't do it at idle, it did it while driving. I have a theory that the computer expects a certain alternator output at a certain rpm and due to the underdrive pulley, it's lower than expected so it triggers the code. However, from a practical standpoint, the battery still stays charged and fine with the underdrive pulley. Don't know if that's correct....but the computer definitely tests the alternator output, the test is in there, so this is my hypothesis.
Takes one minute if you have HP Tuners to fix this.
The PCM/ECU monitors the rotation frequency of the alternator via the horn/sense fuse. If there's noise on this circuit, then the pcm doesn't know how fast the alternator is turning, therefore the wrong charge rate commands get issued to the alternator. Spark plugs and noise they may or may not cause "can be" the cause of this. It happened to me and lots of other people.
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21
Originally Posted by Joe_G
I've been reading this forum for years. I've never seen anyone come up with a fix for this, when it happens after installation of a underdrive pulley, except for turning off the code. I did that years ago and I don't miss that super loud binging from the warning one bit. And I haven't have any ill effects, my battery doesn't go dead, my car starts, etc.
My car didn't do it at idle, it did it while driving. I have a theory that the computer expects a certain alternator output at a certain rpm and due to the underdrive pulley, it's lower than expected so it triggers the code. However, from a practical standpoint, the battery still stays charged and fine with the underdrive pulley. Don't know if that's correct....but the computer definitely tests the alternator output, the test is in there, so this is my hypothesis.
Takes one minute if you have HP Tuners to fix this.
I have to go back for a follow up (slight) tune. My car wavers between 1200 and 1300 RPMS when driving really slow. Jeremy had said that the torque converter breaks in and loosens a bit and that could happen. I will let him know of this "new" development and instruction from Joe's hypothesis!
I did not have an issue with a light but off idle was pretty rough so I switched from TR-5's back to stock A/C Delco's and the car idles better and comes off idle releasing the clutch with little to no gas applied now. It seemed to be an improvement?
Not totally relevant I realize, I went with a 10% powerbond UD pulley also.