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Has anybody ever broken a flywheel bolt before reaching final torque (74 ft-lbs)? I was making my third pass from 37 ft-lbs to 74 ft-lbs and one bolt just wouldn't click. I turned it about a quarter to a half turn further than the others and it suddenly got "soft". I was extremaly lucky to be able to back it out without it snapping off in the crank... Bolt is visibly damaged in 2 places a few threads under the head. Crank threads appear to be entact. A different bolt threaded in with no issue.
These were brand new GM flywheel bolts! I went very slow and did it by the book. I've never heard of a 10.9 bolt shearing prior to reaching rated torque. Any of you have history with this?
This was my first (and last) time I have done a performance upgrade with GM replacement bolts - ARP only from now on. I guess I got a bad batch of bolts. They almost cost me a motor!
Others may want to take this into consideration when choosing between GM replacement and ARP bolts.
I just R&R'd my heads n cam and replaced all fasteners avail with ARP. Well worth the $$ IMHO.
The newer cam retainer plates require a tapered bolt....(not sure if ARP carries those?) I found hardened tappered bolts at a hardware store that fit the recessed holes in the retainer plate perfectly. Chevy dealer wanted to take 7 days to drop ship them directly from the manufacturer.
I try to use aftermarket parts, fasteners etc whenever available. GM quality has further decline to save $$ IMHO.
I just R&R'd my heads n cam and replaced all fasteners avail with ARP. Well worth the $$ IMHO.
The newer cam retainer plates require a tapered bolt....(not sure if ARP carries those?) I found hardened tappered bolts at a hardware store that fit the recessed holes in the retainer plate perfectly. Chevy dealer wanted to take 7 days to drop ship them directly from the manufacturer.
I try to use aftermarket parts, fasteners etc whenever available. GM quality has further decline to save $$ IMHO.
Yeah, I gotta hand it to ARP. I haven't heard of any issued with their product. On the other hand, in all my time under the hood, I have never seen a grade 10.9 bolt begin to spin the head off it prior to reaching torque. Those bolts aren't supposed to break. They have a minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi.
Like I said before, I'm lucky to get it out ion one piece. It saved me from removing the block. I'm not pleased with the quality of the GM bolts I paid for.
Sean,
Yes, I have had several bad Chevy bolts. Usually they were head bolts, but several years ago I even had a bad batch of boron rod bolts for an L88. They would just stretch and would not take the final torque.
ARP is much better quality. Just note that you must use the specified lube (oil, ARP bolt lube, or Locktite) or the torque is not accurate.
Vito, thanks for the reply. This was the first and last time I will ever use GM replacement bolts for car repairs. I have ARP crank and head bolts with great success. The new ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts will be in tomorrow so I can finally get this car back together and back on the dyno.
Did you make sure the bolt was clean and dry before install?
Have you checked the calibration of your torque wrench against another torque wrench?
Something not right about breaking these bolts.
Douglas in Green Bay
Doug,
Bolt was clean, straight out of the box. Torque wrench was not checked. Haven't had a problem with it up to now, but you are correct in that it could be out of cal. This one particular bolt felt different from the rest during the final pass though. That's why I'm leaning towards a bad bolt.
After some brief research, it appears that others have had issues with sheared or broken GM replacement bolts as well.
Bolt was clean, straight out of the box. Torque wrench was not checked. Haven't had a problem with it up to now, but you are correct in that it could be out of cal. This one particular bolt felt different from the rest during the final pass though. That's why I'm leaning towards a bad bolt.
After some brief research, it appears that others have had issues with sheared or broken GM replacement bolts as well.
I had the same problem with flywheel bolts from GM, I felt it start to go so I backed it up, installed ARP no problem
My Torque wrenches get calibrated every 6 months due to FAA regs.
I'm impressed that you could feel what was going on and stop before breaking the bolt off....good job...most people would not have had that 'touch'...
I'm not the best mechanic in the world by a long shot, but I have broken enough bolts to know when they are about to break.
I also think the ergonomics helped me. I was on my back trying to torque with the wrench over my head, so I had no choice but to go slow. I could only get 1 or 2 clicks before repositioning. I go slow for anything requiring a specific torque, especially if it means significant rework if I do it wrong.
Over the years I have kept some of my "mistakes" (spindle nuts, bearings, and now this flywheel bolt) to remind me how much $ I have or could have cost myself for not being careful. So far, the collection is small... Knock on wood!
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