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I've had my 2011, manual, for about a month, and I still have problems making a smooth start in normal city traffic. I either bog it, or light up the tires. Anyone else having that problem? Is it mechanical, or physical?
Check the clutch fluid and see if it's dark brown or worse. If so, change it via Ranger method. I had the same problem on my 06 when it was new; changing to clean fluid made a world of difference. I also later changed the clutch pedal return spring to a C5 spring which has less tension than the C6 spring and that improved clutch action even more. I now change my clutch fluid every couple of months whenever I see it start to darken up. It's an easy 5 minute job using Ranger's method.
Last edited by SUB VETTE; Jul 20, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
Reason: sp
Check the clutch fluid and see if it's dark brown or worse. If so, change it via Ranger method. I had the same problem on my 06 when it was new; changing to clean fluid made a world of difference. I also later changed the clutch pedal return spring to a C5 spring which has less tension than the C6 spring and that improved clutch action even more. I now change my clutch fluid every couple of months whenever I see it start to darken up. It's an easy 5 minute job using Ranger's method.
No disrespect but I think you're simple wasting your time and money. I thought the same thing but finally realized that the fluid changing to a dark color means absolutely nothing.
Thanks, I did take it to a friend (knowledgable) who said it seemed fine to him, and we did change out the fluid. Another friend said to pump the clutch 100 times with the engine off. The spring idea from SubVette above seems to make the most sense to me. The clutch being raised feels bizarre than any clutch I have ever used before (cars, trucks, tractors).
Thanks, I did take it to a friend (knowledgable) who said it seemed fine to him, and we did change out the fluid. Another friend said to pump the clutch 100 times with the engine off. The spring idea from SubVette above seems to make the most sense to me. The clutch being raised feels bizarre than any clutch I have ever used before (cars, trucks, tractors).
Try no spring and see how you like it, I've been running without the spring on the pedal for 27,000 miles. If you don't like it that way , try a C5 spring. The C6 spring gives the clutch a numb feel, and makes it tough to regulate.
I've had my 2011, manual, for about a month, and I still have problems making a smooth start in normal city traffic. I either bog it, or light up the tires. Anyone else having that problem? Is it mechanical, or physical?
i don't seem to have that problem. maybe its your gas pedal or light/heavy foot? sorry i don't know why it would do that since it doesn't happen to me. only thing that has happened to me was that the engine shut off because i let go the clutch incorrectly - didn't give it enough gas.
Thanks, I did take it to a friend (knowledgable) who said it seemed fine to him, and we did change out the fluid. Another friend said to pump the clutch 100 times with the engine off. The spring idea from SubVette above seems to make the most sense to me. The clutch being raised feels bizarre than any clutch I have ever used before (cars, trucks, tractors).
Changing out the fluid sure has helped my clutch engagement smoothness, especially at relatively low throttle/RPMs, like backing out of the garage.
Also if you're getting late engagement of the clutch on the backswing, this can make smooth starts difficult. This was quite common with earlier C6's.
This 50 cent window track lock, clamped onto the clutch arm nubbin seen in the next picture, has fixed mine by reducing clutch overthrow:
My clutch now engages very soon off the floor, and is easier to modulate with the foot. Vs trying to use the whole leg if you have to come back far on the backswing.
It's a feel thing and it takes practice, practice, practice. I had to learn to drive a standard during winter in the mountains of Colorado on snow covered roads. Here's how my dad taught me 40 years ago.
Find a big parking lot without many cars (school or church lots work great) and start by finding at what point your clutch engages/disengages. You don't need to depress the clutch any further than the disengage point which makes the rt foot/lt foot coordination dance a little easier. Practice releasing the clutch smoothly with the least amount of throttle that will get the car rolling forward without stalling or spinning the tires. Practice this slow speed takeoff in both 1st and 2nd gear.
If you're constantly giving it too much gas, start in second instead of first until you get the hang of smooth clutch release and rolling into the throttle.
You'll get it down and then you'll have a blast driving a manual!
It's a feel thing and it takes practice, practice, practice. I had to learn to drive a standard during winter in the mountains of Colorado on snow covered roads. Here's how my dad taught me 40 years ago.
Find a big parking lot without many cars (school or church lots work great) and start by finding at what point your clutch engages/disengages. You don't need to depress the clutch any further than the disengage point which makes the rt foot/lt foot coordination dance a little easier. Practice releasing the clutch smoothly with the least amount of throttle that will get the car rolling forward without stalling or spinning the tires. Practice this slow speed takeoff in both 1st and 2nd gear.
If you're constantly giving it too much gas, start in second instead of first until you get the hang of smooth clutch release and rolling into the throttle.
You'll get it down and then you'll have a blast driving a manual! D
I've also driven a stick for 40 years. And my C6 has had the worst clutch action of any vehicle I've ever owned! Now its fine after 7 years and tinkering. But early on it was worse than my 1980 Chevy Citation!
No disrespect but I think you're simple wasting your time and money. I thought the same thing but finally realized that the fluid changing to a dark color means absolutely nothing.
To each his own; but for me, clean fluid = smoother engagement (for pennies spent).
After driving sticks for 55 years I know what a smooth engagement means.
To each his own; but for me, clean fluid = smoother engagement (for pennies spent). D
After driving sticks for 55 years I know what a smooth engagement means. steering:
For some it just does not seem to matter. Whether it's the driver or clutch?
I have noticed that more hammering=more heat=faster darkening.
I had my master replaced a few years back and the fluid no longer turns very dark. And I also rarely need to change it out anymore. Maybe yearly now. But I also don't hammer it much anymore...
No disrespect but I think you're simple wasting your time and money. I thought the same thing but finally realized that the fluid changing to a dark color means absolutely nothing.
this statement is simply not true. the reason the fluid gets the color it does, is because of two things. First off, the grease that gm used in manufacturing the clutch masters, is the reason for the thick clumping you get in the resevoir and is directly related to the notchy feeling a lot of new vette owners experience. secondly, The dust from the clutch disk will actually get past the seal at the front of the slave, turning it black/brown. it lowers the boiling point and fluidity of the brake fluid in the system. This fluid gets very hot which like any petroleum fluid, lowers its effectiveness.
The best thing I ever did to my 07 was to remove the clutch assist spring. In my opinion, it serves to mask the feel of the clutch. Mine was removed many, many miles ago. The car has 50K plus miles on it now. If removing the spring doesn't do it for you, you can put it right back in.
this statement is simply not true. the reason the fluid gets the color it does, is because of two things. First off, the grease that gm used in manufacturing the clutch masters, is the reason for the thick clumping you get in the resevoir and is directly related to the notchy feeling a lot of new vette owners experience. secondly, The dust from the clutch disk will actually get past the seal at the front of the slave, turning it black/brown. it lowers the boiling point and fluidity of the brake fluid in the system. This fluid gets very hot which like any petroleum fluid, lowers its effectiveness.
look i hear ya. but for any car that is modified, you need to do it. its simple maintenance. If your car is stock thats true. leave it alone and let the dealer do it. If your ever in south florida, come to our shop. Id love to explain it a little better. http://www.hpsalesflorida.com
JCrumpley in above reply has solved the problem, I think!!!
There apparently is a Clutch Assist Spring (that is easy to remove). It makes the clutch come out partially/normally, then it seems to "POP" out completely and engage. That describes exactly what occurs to me. Thanks to all the replies.
I've had my 2011, manual, for about a month, and I still have problems making a smooth start in normal city traffic. I either bog it, or light up the tires. Anyone else having that problem? Is it mechanical, or physical?
When I first drove a C6 I did not feel comfortable with the clutch - nothing real obvious but I have driven manuals for so long that it second nature - not in this case. I ended up taking the car to a parking lot (on the test drive) and told the dealer I was going to master it (He was patient). After about 10 starts it was fine. I would say that compared to my LS2 equipped GTO, it is a more finicky clutch but I would just be patient. You may want to re-experience your adolescence - take it to a parking lot and practice. BTW- I refuse to own an auto unless sit is a dual clutch.