LS2 Engine Block Coolant plug ???
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 24
From: SC
LS2 Engine Block Coolant plug ???
It's time to change the Dexcool on my '07 LS2.
I usually drain the radiator and the engine block (3 drains on older blocks).
Engine blocks have always had drain plugs near the middle of the block next to the pan, but maybe the LS2's don't have one.
I guess one would be a little higher up near where the center of the crankshaft is, but I don't see one.
I pulled out a small 10mm bolt and there was oil in there. Not that one!
My service books don't list a torque spec for a drain plug on the LS2, but it does for an LS7.
Anybody know if there are block drain plugs for the '07 LS2?
I usually drain the radiator and the engine block (3 drains on older blocks).
Engine blocks have always had drain plugs near the middle of the block next to the pan, but maybe the LS2's don't have one.
I guess one would be a little higher up near where the center of the crankshaft is, but I don't see one.
I pulled out a small 10mm bolt and there was oil in there. Not that one!
My service books don't list a torque spec for a drain plug on the LS2, but it does for an LS7.
Anybody know if there are block drain plugs for the '07 LS2?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,486
Likes: 800
From: West coast CA
It's time to change the Dexcool on my '07 LS2.
I usually drain the radiator and the engine block (3 drains on older blocks).
Engine blocks have always had drain plugs near the middle of the block next to the pan, but maybe the LS2's don't have one.
I guess one would be a little higher up near where the center of the crankshaft is, but I don't see one.
I pulled out a small 10mm bolt and there was oil in there. Not that one!
My service books don't list a torque spec for a drain plug on the LS2, but it does for an LS7.
Anybody know if there are block drain plugs for the '07 LS2?
I usually drain the radiator and the engine block (3 drains on older blocks).
Engine blocks have always had drain plugs near the middle of the block next to the pan, but maybe the LS2's don't have one.
I guess one would be a little higher up near where the center of the crankshaft is, but I don't see one.
I pulled out a small 10mm bolt and there was oil in there. Not that one!
My service books don't list a torque spec for a drain plug on the LS2, but it does for an LS7.
Anybody know if there are block drain plugs for the '07 LS2?
The right drain is directly above the starter motor near the back of the block. You have to remove the starter to get at it. The right drain plug takes a conventional socket.
If you don't already have a 17mm Allen wrench for the left drain, Mac Tools P/N SC80 is pretty handy. It's a very compact, one-piece special-application socket, 3/8" drive on one end (1/2" would have been better) and a stubby 17mm on the other.
Last edited by torquetube; Jul 30, 2011 at 06:19 PM.
SUBVETTE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 92
From: San Diego CA
Just flush it a couple of times after draining the radiator. See the following: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577363773-post15.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,486
Likes: 800
From: West coast CA
Just flush it a couple of times after draining the radiator. See the following: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577363773-post15.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 24
From: SC
I drained 1 1/2 gallons from the radiator drain, so that is enough for a refill of coolant after a flushing.
Thanks for the advice about the block drains, but I'll do the flush method rather that buy the allen wrench and mess with the large plugs in an aluminum block. Don't want to disconnect the power to remove the starter either, since I would lose the memory. It runs good now, but wasn't as good when new.
I'll even use distilled water (it's cheap) and run the heater to get most of it flushed.
I had a disappointing experience with a '64 fuelie I restored. The new engine ran perfectly and never needed any coolant added. After 3 or 4 years the coolant was all rusty. Darnit, hard way to learn that the rust inhibitor gets used up.
At least Dexcool lasts longer.
Thanks for the advice about the block drains, but I'll do the flush method rather that buy the allen wrench and mess with the large plugs in an aluminum block. Don't want to disconnect the power to remove the starter either, since I would lose the memory. It runs good now, but wasn't as good when new.
I'll even use distilled water (it's cheap) and run the heater to get most of it flushed.
I had a disappointing experience with a '64 fuelie I restored. The new engine ran perfectly and never needed any coolant added. After 3 or 4 years the coolant was all rusty. Darnit, hard way to learn that the rust inhibitor gets used up.
At least Dexcool lasts longer.
