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What is the "factory" stall on a 2009 A6 torque converter? I'm thinking of installing a higher stall but want to know what the car currently has before changing...any help?
I have no idea, but for a DD car the Yank 3200 is perfect.
VERY tight and should've come like that stock.
Keep in mind that more important than the stall RPM is the stall torque ratio.
I'm taking mine out because the STR isn't high enough on it (Yank 3200 is only 2.1) and am replacing it with a Circle D 3200-3800 with a much high STR (around 2.6)
The stall torque ratio is the multiplying effect the converter produces on engine torque between the engine and transmission
on the initial movement of the vehicle, i.e. A stall torque ratio of 2.0 on a 400 ft. lb. engine will produce 800 ft. lb. at the transmission
input shaft on launch. So the higher the stall torque ratio, the higher the torque and harder the initial launch will be. This means sticky
tires will be required to maintain traction on the higher stall torque ratio converters (2.2 and above). Due to the new manufacturing process,
Yank Converters have a higher efficiency than the competitors. Don’t let the stall torque ratio be the only deciding factor on your converter
selection and feel free to contact Yank with any questions.
I have no idea, but for a DD car the Yank 3200 is perfect.
VERY tight and should've come like that stock.
I'm taking mine out because the STR isn't high enough on it (Yank 3200 is only 2.1) and am replacing it with a Circle D 3200-3800 with a much high STR (around 2.6)
When will you be taking out your converter? I take it you will be selling it, how much do you want for the Yank 3200 you currently have?
You should consider what your plans for your car will be. If you are planning to install an after market cam. The Yank ss3600 would be a better choice than the ss3200.
When will you be taking out your converter? I take it you will be selling it, how much do you want for the Yank 3200 you currently have?
No, I'm having the guts totally rebuilt by Circle D
Originally Posted by mitchell c
You should consider what your plans for your car will be. If you are planning to install an after market cam. The Yank ss3600 would be a better choice than the ss3200.
A yank 3200 will be fine for basically any cam you throw in it.
It is MUCH more streetable than the 3600 for most.
Circle D is local, priced it better, is rebuilding it to specific specs and has a long history of building amazing converters. I'm quite confident in their work
Turnaround is 2 days.
The only reason I went with Yank at all was because I got a used 3200 super cheap.
Keep in mind that more important than the stall RPM is the stall torque ratio.
I'm taking mine out because the STR isn't high enough on it (Yank 3200 is only 2.1) and am replacing it with a Circle D 3200-3800 with a much high STR (around 2.6)
Higher is definitely better if you have the tires to use it. For someone staying on street tires or runflats, a low STR can be pretty desirable on the street.
Higher is definitely better if you have the tires to use it. For someone staying on street tires or runflats, a low STR can be pretty desirable on the street.
All I care about is performance. I'll use tires that match the performance, not the other way around
I have a Yank 3200. It's a very street friendly converter and like FloydSummerOf68 says, our cars should have came with this converter from the factory. But for drag strip use it just won't get the job done.
I am very happy with mine for the type of driving I do and for occasional drag strip. I wouldn't want much looser for every day and in particular heavy traffic driving.
Another good benefit with the 3200 is no cooler is required. Much looser and that tranny temp might start to climb with a lot of start and stop driving. Also I can idle mine up pretty high so most any cam should work fine with this converter. It may be an ideal converter for a supercharged application.
This 1.804 60' is not with this converter. I'm hopeing to improve on that this fall.
Based on the tranny temps I've seen with the stock converter in the Vette, and having switched in the Avalanche from the stock 1600 stall to a Yank 2600, I would never add a higher stall converter without also adding an external tranny oil cooler. Excessive heat is the biggest killer of automatic transmissions.
For my truck application, and knowing that I tow occasionally, I would not want any higher stall than the 2600 on the Av. It's difficult to easily back a trailer up now. I suspect, as already stated, that a tight Yank 3200 stall will be very good for the Vette.
As Larry mentioned, no cooler is necessary for the 3200.
He and I both live in Houston and saw 40+ days of 100 degree heat this summer. It just doesn't slip enough to produce excess heat, and therefore also doesn't hit hard enough at the track for killer 60's. Try as I might, the 3200 Yank was not good for better than a 1.70 in my car, which is sad. With a 3600 converter hitting 1.50 my 11.29 would've been a 10.9x .... bu that's what this winter is for
Once I put my rebuilt Circle D converter in it'll get a cooler with it.
As Larry mentioned, no cooler is necessary for the 3200.
He and I both live in Houston and saw 40+ days of 100 degree heat this summer. It just doesn't slip enough to produce excess heat, and therefore also doesn't hit hard enough at the track for killer 60's. Try as I might, the 3200 Yank was not good for better than a 1.70 in my car, which is sad. With a 3600 converter hitting 1.50 my 11.29 would've been a 10.9x .... bu that's what this winter is for
Once I put my rebuilt Circle D converter in it'll get a cooler with it.
I have never seen my tranny temp more than 200*. And in fact most of the time even much less. I'm pretty easy during normal acceleration so maybe that has something to do with it too. I suppose if you made a few back to back jackrabbit accelerations you might need a cooler but for me not necessary. However, I'm sure a cooler wouldn't be a bad upgrade on any transmission.
Just to throw in another point of view, I'm not particularly happy with my Yank 2800. I find it annoying for daily driving. I also think it contributed to the trans and coolant heat problems I had when it was really hot this summer. I have a DeWitts rad and a big B&M cooler with fan and still was not where I wanted to be. I have more work to do on airflow around the cooler and think it will be fine.
I'll almost certainly take it out in the next few months, but I'll probably try to get the the strip once with it to see how much difference it makes for me.
I have never seen my tranny temp more than 200*. And in fact most of the time even much less. I'm pretty easy during normal acceleration so maybe that has something to do with it too. I suppose if you made a few back to back jackrabbit accelerations you might need a cooler but for me not necessary. However, I'm sure a cooler wouldn't be a bad upgrade on any transmission.
As a comparison to this, my 07 coupe is stock with the exception of a CAI. I saw many days this summer with tranny oil temps of 205-209 degrees in slow/stop-and-go traffic with outside temperatures of 98 degrees plus. That's just too high, and not acceptable in my book, even knowing that Dexron 6 is a semi-synthetic fluid and can take more heat than non-synthetic fluid. I will probably end up installing a Long Manufacturing Tru-Cool unit on my car next spring. I've had one on the Avalanche for 6 years now, it's been a great unit and has helped considerably with lower temps. It's plumbed out of the radiator cooler, into the Tru-Cool, and then into the tranny.
As a comparison to this, my 07 coupe is stock with the exception of a CAI. I saw many days this summer with tranny oil temps of 205-209 degrees in slow/stop-and-go traffic with outside temperatures of 98 degrees plus.
Quite possibly with mine too but I may not have checked it at peak temp. I'm retired too so I haven't been a big fan of getting out in those temperatures.