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Brake Squeal!!!

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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #21  
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TMyers
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From: Everett Wa
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Originally Posted by mrgillies
So how do lesser vehicles manage to not have brake squeeeel? Mine have done it since I bought the vehicle @ 15K miles , replacd pads at 20 with GM Ceramics, and now with 36K, the only time they are quiet is when its parked. I may try the 60-0 and cool down period, I'm sure I read somewhere you have to do 60-5 3 or 4 times (without stopping) to line the rotors.
Stock pads won't squeal with the proper braking technique. But most people don't want to stop that hard. If you tend to just barely use you brake (light application of the brakes) you are probably glazing the pads. Once the pads are glazed they will squeak. This is the way my wife drives. No offense meant by that but it is true. A firmer application of the brakes will minimize the squeaking. Or get Bobcat 1521's. So far my wife has had quite brakes. She drives the car more than I do.


PS: Lesser vehicles have squeal also. My truck is a prime example. Of course it is also a performance application that has to stop 26K lbs.

Last edited by TMyers; Sep 20, 2011 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #22  
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oldmansan
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From: Los Alamitos California
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Originally Posted by mrgillies
So how do lesser vehicles manage to not have brake squeeeel? Mine have done it since I bought the vehicle @ 15K miles , replacd pads at 20 with GM Ceramics, and now with 36K, the only time they are quiet is when its parked. I may try the 60-0 and cool down period, I'm sure I read somewhere you have to do 60-5 3 or 4 times (without stopping) to line the rotors.
Pad choice makes a lot of difference. I run street pads on my Corvette and race pads on my Lotus. The Stoptechs on my Corvette are very quiet and the AP Racing on the Lotus are noisy when braking "normally". Agressive braking produces less noise.

Brake pads and even kits have different methods for bedding the pads to the rotors. My Stoptech bedding instructions were substantially different than the AP Racing. The key is that you want to get the rotor hot and deposit an even layer of pad material on the rotor.

Pad to pad is what stops you efficiently (cohesion) as opposed to pad to rotor (adhesion). You also want to completely cool the rotor. I jump on the highway for 20 minutes and then depending on the looks of the rotor, I'll bed them again. Some prefer to wait overnight before a second (or third) bedding.

Don't cook the brakes when you're bedding. If you can smell the brakes or get a lot of fade, you're done. Some amount of fade is to be expected. That means you're close to done. Hope this helps.

San
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #23  
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vette68ttop
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From: Katy tx
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I got a question? I have a 09 z51 and have about 25k on it. The pads are the stock pads and I was looking last night and could really see it the pad are about done or not. So, my question is. If I have been driving semi hard no racing how long should the pads last?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #24  
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From: Everett Wa
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My stock pads and discs lasted a little less than 40K.
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