Hi all, I'm sure I'm losing my mind and it's right in front of me, but I can't find a write-up on replacing brake fluid (flushing / bleeding). I found some references to power bleeders, etc. but nothing like I expected as far as a sticky DIY thread, etc. Can someone please provide a link?
Thanks in advance!
Dan

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...-bleeding3.htm

 

Thanks for the link and the pictures -- that's a good start!

So to completely replace the "old" fluid, I'd siphon the reservoir empty, replace with new fluid and then push it out of each corner while making sure the reservoir doesn't go empty?

 

That's about it. Remember to start at the farthest corner first, working closer and closer to the master cylinder. Right rear, Left rear, right front, and finally left front. Also remember to close the bleeder valve prior to releasing the brake...

 

Given the amount of flushing needed, anyone have a rule of thumb for:
1) How much fluid I should purchase to adequately flush it all out?
2) How much I should see discharge into the container per corner to consider it "changed out"?

Thanks again for the replies!

 

Dan, I would say plan on using a quart (liter) to start. The right rear should get you maybe 6-8 oz before you see clear fluid. Each progressively closer line will net less and less fluid. Keep bleeding until you see the fluid change color or until it's completely clear (amber).

It's really jot that tough. Give me a call if you need help. 786-371-7216.
Sean

 

Just make absolutely sure you don't even come close to running the reservoir empty. The C6 has a fairly large reservoir so it's not hard to watch.

If not in a hurry, you can gravity bleed. I don't have enough patience to know how long that would take.

 

As usual, great info and great help from great members!

 

Just a final follow-up to this thread -- I bought a Motive Power Bleeder (since I'll be doing HPDE events and plan to flush regularly) and used it as a compressed air supply attached to the reservoir (didn't put brake fluid in the bottle). The whole process was a breeze with one exception: the drain tube I used (it came with the Motive unit) started slipping off the bleed valves by the second corner, so I was a bit frustrated trying to keep the tube in place while turning the box wrench.

Another note: when I had my calipers powder-coated, I had my local dealer do the installation/swap. They told me "It's known that Corvettes are hard to bleed properly". I found that the pedal always felt like the brakes were spongy after that work was done, but thought it was maybe just in my head. Well, a significant amount of air bubbles came out of the driver-side rear corner when I started the flushing process. It took a long time to get all of the air out, and as I kept tapping on the caliper while bleeding, more air kept coming out for a few minutes straight. I had to refill the reservoir a couple of times while tapping the caliper before I finally got a clean stream of fluid with no bubbles. The pedal is WAY more firm now, so I suspect I bled the air out much better than the dealer service. If you want it done right...

Anyone have thoughts on this? I've never bled / flushed brake lines before (I've done pads and calipers many times), so I don't know if this is typical or if the dealer screwed up.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Snap On (blue Point)
has this really cool brake bleeding tool that works off your air compressor
you can also get a system from Phoenix that has the ability to reverse bleed
its expensive, but you can do everything with that kit
i do not recommend reverse bleeding on an old brake system, its mainly good for a new complete system to get the air out
i needed it when i redid my brake lines on my TA
what a F'n nightmare, but the tool made it work finally

another way you can replenish brake fluid is get a turkey baster, suck it out of the master
i do this with every oil change on my cars and the fluid will always be good and fresh
i also do that for power steering fluid too

changing fluids with the temps new cars run at is important

 

Or you can use speedbleeders. They have a valve in the bleeder that only opens under positive pressure so as soon as you start taking your foot off the pedal it will stop the fluid flow.

 

I cant image that would be typical on any car. Sounds like they didnt have the equipment or dedication to get all the air out.

Ive filled up and bled out empty systems on bikes before and even with only a few feet of brake line its a long, messy chore to get the system air free.

Its much easier to run new fluid through a system thats already setup correctly, thats a cinch.