C6 Choppy Dyno
Long story short , I took it to get a baseline dyno to see if that gave me any additional information. Since I don't have 'rights' to post pictures here, I did post the dyno jpeg in my picture gallery for those of you who want to look at it. The did the SAE smoothing of 5 and it is still choppy. Also it indicated an SAE corrected 324 rwhp. The first run was 210, but they let it cool and ended with 324. From what I read that is low for a manual. The car drives fine and does not have any codes. It does have 65K on it. The dyno operator said he thought it was detonating and said to check the plugs.
Any opinions on this? I am planning on changing plugs but wanted to know if there was anything else that could make this happen.
Long story short , I took it to get a baseline dyno to see if that gave me any additional information. Since I don't have 'rights' to post pictures here, I did post the dyno jpeg in my picture gallery for those of you who want to look at it. The did the SAE smoothing of 5 and it is still choppy. Also it indicated an SAE corrected 324 rwhp. The first run was 210, but they let it cool and ended with 324. From what I read that is low for a manual. The car drives fine and does not have any codes. It does have 65K on it. The dyno operator said he thought it was detonating and said to check the plugs.
Any opinions on this? I am planning on changing plugs but wanted to know if there was anything else that could make this happen.
What evelation or DA were you at that night? My stock MN6 ran 8.8 at 86 mph with a 2.1 60' spinning through the first 2 gears. I don't consider myself a good drag trip driver, but I have heard some guys running low 8.1-8.2's in the 1/8th with stock or lightly modded cars.
Taken 19 - - you ran 86mph and I was running 78 mph. Big difference on power. My guess is it was pulling timing like crazy. Track elevation is only 253 ft.
Couple questions - why is torque not included on graph? Why is speed posted and not engine RPM? What gear were you in? 4th gear run will post most accurate data. The graph only runs to about 137 mph. With a non Z51, your 4th gear should run out to about 160. At 137, your engine speed is 5500 RPM or less? That would easily explain low numbers. Stock vette peaks at about 5900 RPM.
Did tuner have laptop hooked up? If so, he could tell you exactly what RPM timing was being pulled and how much. May be a good starting point.
As far as the strip, what were your shift points? My old 350Z would cross the 1/8th at 81-82, and it only had about 310 up in the motor. Something definitely seems off.
Last edited by taken19; Sep 30, 2011 at 11:37 AM.
As far as the strip, I was shifting around 6400.
I am going to change the plugs and run out the current gas. I guess the only way to know for sure what is going on is to let them datalog it and see what is happening.
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Here's your dyno:
Last edited by taken19; Sep 30, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
I know the dynojet can smooth out the chart up to 5. I am not sure about the smoothing number capability of the mustang dyno. All I know is that the dynojet with a 5 smoothing is usually very smooth. That tells me I was all over the board.
Yes, I am for sure changing the plugs. The shop told me to go with the TR55's. Hopefully when I take out the plugs they will show some some signs of being bad. I am sure the stock plugs are in it.
I know the dynojet can smooth out the chart up to 5. I am not sure about the smoothing number capability of the mustang dyno. All I know is that the dynojet with a 5 smoothing is usually very smooth. That tells me I was all over the board.
Now that I have been to the dyno 4 times, the curve is extremely smooth (with ported 243 heads, cam and FAST 102), but that is after about 10 hours of collective tuning. If your car has never had a tune, the combo of stock tune and some detonation could explain what you are seeing.
Just a quick run down of what KR looks like on a dyno graph, just so the uninformed know what to look for when they go get their cars dynoed/tuned.
First off, KR is never smooth. It is abrupt. If the engine is out of it's happy zone, as far as spark lead, the graph will be very rough. Here are just a few examples of KR, some of them with before and after results. The after results being either softening the knock sensors, and/or reducing the timing to get the motor happy.
Notice the obvious step at 4100. All the following graphs will have this noticeable step. Some worse than others. Another thing to note, especially in the before and after graphs, is the smoothness after. Notice how choppy this graph is.

Knock retard @ 4900, before and after. Notice it not only doesn't have the step, but is now smoother right after the point where it previously knocked.

Here's one with a more drastic difference. Motor still didn't look totally happy though. Still a rougher graph than I like to see. KR @ 3250, there abouts.....

KR before and after, 3750 rpm......

Here is a more drastic one, but a good example of the gains from just getting KR under control, and fueling too.

Here's one that pulled twice. Double whammy. 3700, and then again at 4700. Notice the graph overall is smoother after getting rid of the KR.

I hope this helps some of you out there understand what knock retard looks like. So when you go get your car dynoed, you'll know what to look for. If it helps one person, I've done my job here.
Again, to summerize, knock retard is never smooth. It doesn't come in smooth, it doesn't recover smooth. The OP's graph that has 2 dips, is most normally caused by a combination of cam profile, and intake/header tuning. I've had cars that had dips in the graph, only to loose them by running open header, or by switching to a different length primary tube header. Sometimes these dips can be lessened by tuning the timing tables, but if you get to a point of having a flat timing table, where they would normally have a timing dip around peak VE, there's not much else you can do.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Oct 3, 2011 at 07:43 AM.
What are my options to fix this? As I already stated...this thing is bone stock with an extended warranty so I cannot get a tune until the warranty is done. I always run 93 octane so I am a little perplexed.

















