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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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Default Greaseable End Links

It is raining here today so I thought I would do a little make work project.

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I had the notorious rattle in the rear for a couple months. With help from the forum I traced it to the sway bar links. They had very little play out on the bench. There was very little grease under the boots. I greased them with a small syringe and reinstalled. This cured the rattle. I decided to install zerts. I don't know if this will be good fix. My Vette is a daily driver. It won't take long to find out. If nothing else it keep be busy for a couple hours. Later! Frank
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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I like the idea of grease fittings but without the ability to remove the ball from socket I would hate to leave metal chips from the drilling & tapping operations.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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I cleaned out the chipped just fine. The chips are too big the get in the tight tolerance between the bushing and ball anyway. Later! Frank
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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Ive got a squeak coming from under the car towards the back so Im wondering if its the rear links need greasing. Just had the front links replaced under warranty as I complained about squeaking when they did my last oil change. Guess I need to get them to grease the rears. Also I think having bad links up front has me in need of an alignment now. Over 80 and the steeering wheel is shaking a bit. So I'll try to get that done under the presumption it was the front links that caused it.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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Great job but I also would be concerned about the shavings.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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Been doing this a long time. The hole at the bottom where the bit breaks through and contacts the ball is very small. There is no steel sleeve in the joint. Steel ball riding in aluminum. That is part of the problem. You can put more and larger crud in the zert when you grease them if you don't wipe them off. If this saves them , fine. If not I will build some using all steel parts with zerts. Later! Frank
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks victorf.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Off topic, but I just got done replacing my sway bars on my 2011 and the end links are now different. The stud now has a hex 8 mm section on the end and doesn't require a torx for the end of the stud, or a 17 mm wrench for the small flat, to hold them when tightening the bolt. An 8 mm open end wrench holds it really securely. Makes it a LOT easier.
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