A6 converter install ?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 790
Likes: 63
From: Ft Worth TX
Contact Subfloor. He has a nice checklist he may share with you.
SlickShoes also has a good post on diff removal which gets you most of the way there.
I can tell you it is not a bad job. Had the trans out twice now and headed for a 3rd time soon.
The second time I had it on th floor in 90 minutes, but the car was already on stands with the wheels and mufflers off.
Off the top of my head:
Make sure you have a floor jack and a trans jack. It would be great to have a buddy for a couple parts, but I did it by myself both times.
Car up, remove the wheels, sway bar, and mufflers. Discon the top of the shocks and upper A frames from the car, the e-brake cables, the fuel pump ground wire on the drives side frame behind the wheel. Remove and hang the calipers, and the clips holding the brake lines and e-brake cables to the cradle. Pull the axles out of the diff. This will probably require a pry bar. Support the trans and drop the cradle and suspension with the trans jack without disconnecting the brake lines, just be careful. You can turn the cradle 90 degrees on the ground so it is out of the way.
Now you can unbolt and slide the diff back and off the input shaft.
Next comes the trans. Cooling lines, wiring, and shifter cable all disconnected, than all you have left is the bolts to the bell housing.
Removing the converter bolts will require you to put a wrench on the flywheel end (by the motor) to turn the driveshaft and line up each converter bolt with the rear access hole so you can remove them. You can do this part earlier in the job to if you like.
Now you can unbolt the trans, slide it back a bit and lower it.
One thing to keep in mind is you should support both ends of the torque tube. Jackstands will do fine if you can adjust or shim them to the proper height. You will also have to shuffle jacks arround to support and lower the cradle, diff, and trans at different times.
SlickShoes also has a good post on diff removal which gets you most of the way there.
I can tell you it is not a bad job. Had the trans out twice now and headed for a 3rd time soon.
The second time I had it on th floor in 90 minutes, but the car was already on stands with the wheels and mufflers off.
Off the top of my head:
Make sure you have a floor jack and a trans jack. It would be great to have a buddy for a couple parts, but I did it by myself both times.
Car up, remove the wheels, sway bar, and mufflers. Discon the top of the shocks and upper A frames from the car, the e-brake cables, the fuel pump ground wire on the drives side frame behind the wheel. Remove and hang the calipers, and the clips holding the brake lines and e-brake cables to the cradle. Pull the axles out of the diff. This will probably require a pry bar. Support the trans and drop the cradle and suspension with the trans jack without disconnecting the brake lines, just be careful. You can turn the cradle 90 degrees on the ground so it is out of the way.
Now you can unbolt and slide the diff back and off the input shaft.
Next comes the trans. Cooling lines, wiring, and shifter cable all disconnected, than all you have left is the bolts to the bell housing.
Removing the converter bolts will require you to put a wrench on the flywheel end (by the motor) to turn the driveshaft and line up each converter bolt with the rear access hole so you can remove them. You can do this part earlier in the job to if you like.
Now you can unbolt the trans, slide it back a bit and lower it.
One thing to keep in mind is you should support both ends of the torque tube. Jackstands will do fine if you can adjust or shim them to the proper height. You will also have to shuffle jacks arround to support and lower the cradle, diff, and trans at different times.
Last edited by wallyj; Nov 5, 2011 at 02:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Contact Subfloor. He has a nice checklist he may share with you.
SlickShoes also has a good post on diff removal which gets you most of the way there.
I can tell you it is not a bad job. Had the trans out twice now and headed for a 3rd time soon.
The second time I had it on th floor in 90 minutes, but the car was already on stands with the wheels and mufflers off.
Off the top of my head:
Make sure you have a floor jack and a trans jack. It would be great to have a buddy for a couple parts, but I did it by myself both times.
Car up, remove the wheels, sway bar, and mufflers. Discon the top of the shocks and upper A frames from the car, the e-brake cables, the fuel pump ground wire on the drives side frame behind the wheel. Remove and hang the calipers, and the clips holding the brake lines and e-brake cables to the cradle. Pull the axles out of the diff. This will probably require a pry bar. Support the trans and drop the cradle and suspension with the trans jack without disconnecting the brake lines, just be careful. You can turn the cradle 90 degrees on the ground so it is out of the way.
Now you can unbolt and slide the diff back and off the input shaft.
Next comes the trans. Cooling lines, wiring, and shifter cable all disconnected, than all you have left is the bolts to the bell housing.
Removing the converter bolts will require you to put a wrench on the flywheel end (by the motor) to turn the driveshaft and line up each converter bolt with the rear access hole so you can remove them. You can do this part earlier in the job to if you like.
Now you can unbolt the trans, slide it back a bit and lower it.
One thing to keep in mind is you should support both ends of the torque tube. Jackstands will do fine if you can adjust or shim them to the proper height. You will also have to shuffle jacks arround to support and lower the cradle, diff, and trans at different times.
SlickShoes also has a good post on diff removal which gets you most of the way there.
I can tell you it is not a bad job. Had the trans out twice now and headed for a 3rd time soon.
The second time I had it on th floor in 90 minutes, but the car was already on stands with the wheels and mufflers off.
Off the top of my head:
Make sure you have a floor jack and a trans jack. It would be great to have a buddy for a couple parts, but I did it by myself both times.
Car up, remove the wheels, sway bar, and mufflers. Discon the top of the shocks and upper A frames from the car, the e-brake cables, the fuel pump ground wire on the drives side frame behind the wheel. Remove and hang the calipers, and the clips holding the brake lines and e-brake cables to the cradle. Pull the axles out of the diff. This will probably require a pry bar. Support the trans and drop the cradle and suspension with the trans jack without disconnecting the brake lines, just be careful. You can turn the cradle 90 degrees on the ground so it is out of the way.
Now you can unbolt and slide the diff back and off the input shaft.
Next comes the trans. Cooling lines, wiring, and shifter cable all disconnected, than all you have left is the bolts to the bell housing.
Removing the converter bolts will require you to put a wrench on the flywheel end (by the motor) to turn the driveshaft and line up each converter bolt with the rear access hole so you can remove them. You can do this part earlier in the job to if you like.
Now you can unbolt the trans, slide it back a bit and lower it.
One thing to keep in mind is you should support both ends of the torque tube. Jackstands will do fine if you can adjust or shim them to the proper height. You will also have to shuffle jacks arround to support and lower the cradle, diff, and trans at different times.
