my1stvettein07

I am not exactly sure what I have done but any advice would be greatly appreciated. For you S/A the car was dynoed at 601 to the wheels. I was doing some spirited driving and was shifting from 3rd to 4th, higher in the RPM band but not high enough for my shift light to come on. I went to push the clutch in and it smacked straight to the floor. I can pull the clutch back out and it will stay all the way out but if I go to push it in, it smacks straigt to the floor. I checked under the car when I got home and there was some oil/hydraylic fluid. Does this issue sound like some plumbing that can be fixed separetly from the clutch or do you think it affected the clutch as well. Also, given the issues what other components do you think I will need in addition to a clutch kit. To avoid the obvious question "why dont you take it to a shop", I am deployed in afghanistan currently and would like to order the parts before I get home. I was looking at the SPEC super Twin P-Trim as a replacement. Thank you for your time and any assistance.

SUB VETTE

Clutch pedal sticking to the floor can be an issue with dirty clutch hydraulic fluid or a problem with the clutch slave cylinder. Unless you see a drop in the master cylinder level and/or evidence of fluid leakage, try the Ranger (check DIY stickies) method of replacing the fluid several times until it's clean again with a turkey baster. The other thing worth checking is the clutch pedal spring which is known to break in some cases. You can see it under the dash looking up at the pedal (you may also find the broken spring on the floor.

Bill Dearborn

Do the stuff mentioned above and see if it fixes the problem but if you have clutch fluid leaking from the bottom of the car the bleeder valve may have come loose or you may have blown a seal in the slave cylinder. Tightening the bleeder means pulling the exhaust and the tunnel plate to get to the bleeder through the window in the bell housing. A seal leak means pulling the clutch because the slave and throw out bearing are combined in one part. If you end up taking the clutch out to replace the slave make sure you add a remote bleeder while things are apart.

Bill

AORoads

You don't say, but I thought I read somewhere that the stock clutch setups are good for up to the 500-550 rwhp range. Anyone else read that?

torquetube

I definitely agree that the OP should install a remote bleeder while he's in there, if he has to go in there.

The bleed screw can be tightened without pulling anything, but it is hard. Long fingers help.

KevinZ51C6

He says he's making 601 rwhp.

Reading comprehension > you

saplumr

This can also pertain to you. He simply said he heard the stock clutch was good for 500-550 rwhp and was questioning if it was true. I'm pretty sure he didn't miss what the op stated as his rwhp rating.

KevinZ51C6

Um...no. That makes no sense. Why would he bring up 500-550 which has nothing to do with OP's power level? Guess it went over your head also. He was being sarcastic, in an attempt to flame those who claim the stock clutch can handle up to 550, and owned himself in the process. Reread this

"You don't say, but I thought I read somewhere that the stock clutch setups are good for up to the 500-550 rwhp range. Anyone else read that?"

Reading comp> you also

Sorry to threadjack

saplumr

You're being totally rediculous and obviously only believe what you wish. I know first hand how much power the stock clutch can handle and how for how long. You're probably one of those guys that believes what "some " people say but actually don't have a clue. Take your head ot of the sand!

Joe_G

Given the fact that your clutch is straight to the floor with fluid underneath, I'm afraid it doesn't sound good for you. Sounds like you blew a slave or a master. Master is easier; slave requires clutch removal.

If you are ordering parts, and assuming you can return unused parts (check with Gene Culley here on the Forum, he might give you some extended return capabilities given your service), I'd order both a master and a slave if I was you. Hopefully it's just the master, hard to tell without seeing where the fluid is coming from.

If you're planning on a a clutch too (you'll want to swap the slave & throwout bearing if you do) it would help to know your HP and your plans for the car. Given those facts, we should be able to give you some advice with experience.

Thank you for your service!

lilmiller74

Im having issues with my car pertaining to the same thing but im pretty sure that the line running from the master to the slave was laying on the header and got burnt. Do you know if you can just buy the line that connects the two?

my1stvettein07

Thanks for the advice so far. In regards to my future plans, as we all know modifying is addicting. However, some of my plans may be hopes and dreams but the dream sheet is to eventually forge the engine and be in the 700's. Again thank you for the advice. The corvette forum is a nice relief compared to the ricer forums I have joined, where the less experienced get flame sprayed for asking a question. Again a welcome relief and a testament to the quality of people that own corvettes.

05C6GAC

Joe_G

To be clear, the sticking to the floor issue you're thinking about is when you are racing the car...you can pull up the clutch pedal and it works properly again after a few pumps. This is caused by dirty clutch fluid and the Ranger method and spring removal fixes this problem for many folks.

If you've got clutch fluid under the car and the clutch doesn't disengage at all, you've got a blown slave most likely. No amount of Ranger method is going to work for this problem.

At 600 rwhp the stock clutch is not up to the job anyway. If I was the OP I'd be researching clutches and plan to install a new slave & perhaps have a master on hand too when the job's being done.

If he decides to research, get recommendations from people with more than a week or two on their clutch. They all work for a few weeks. What about a few years. That's the question to ask.

my1stvettein07

Just ordered the SPEC Super Twin P-Trim with a new slave and master with an aluminium fly wheel. Again thank you for all the help. I will keep you all posted with the results when I get home.

saplumr

I've got the Spec super twin carbon and it is a beast of a clutch. The harder you slip it the better it gets. Unfortunately...break in is a b!tch! Be patient.

my1stvettein07

Since a few of you have mentioned a remote bleeder as being a good investment can you provide some recomendations or are they all pretty much the same. I have seen several for 89.00 (west coast corvette etc.) and Katech has one for 135.00. Is there anything specific to look for? Thanks again.