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I have a 2008 Coupe with 20k miles that i purchased 2 months ago.
From time to time when I shift from 1st to second the car will not go into second without me moving the gear shifter from side to side. It will eventually go in, but not directly like it should. This is very erratic, and has not rhyme or reason to why it happens.
I have a 2008 Coupe with 20k miles that i purchased 2 months ago.
From time to time when I shift from 1st to second the car will not go into second without me moving the gear shifter from side to side. It will eventually go in, but not directly like it should. This is very erratic, and has not rhyme or reason to why it happens.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Jason
1-4 shift. Under certain circumstances you have to shift from 1st to 4th. Pain in the neck in my opinion get a skip shift eliminator.
Isnt that just when the rpms are below 2k when you shift?
It has to do with RPM and throttle percentage. The 2nd-gear lockout is active when the amber 1->4 lamp is illuminated. That is, assuming you don't have a skip-shift eliminator installed, in which case the lamp will still come on but the lockout mechanism won't engage.
It could be that your shift linkage is loose. If the connection between the shifter box and the tube back to the tranny is a tad loose you can get odd, random stuff like this. It seems unlikely if that area hasn't been messed with since the car was produced but it's not impossible.
Could be a loose shifter box. The box mounts to the torque tube with two bolts through rubber mount bushings. The bushings over time deteriorate with heat and crack/shred causing the box to get loose. If you are a DIY person, it's an easy fix by removing the console bezel and removing the box to put in new bushings. The bushings are sold by a few aftermarket vendors such as mamomotorworks .com, part #627-379 for $19.99.
Could be a loose shifter box. The box mounts to the torque tube with two bolts through rubber mount bushings. The bushings over time deteriorate with heat and crack/shred causing the box to get loose. If you are a DIY person, it's an easy fix by removing the console bezel and removing the box to put in new bushings. The bushings are sold by a few aftermarket vendors such as mamomotorworks .com, part #627-379 for $19.99.
I think you gave me insight to two items.. A rattle under load, (accelleration), and a second gear grind now and then.. My reverse is a painin the *** too at times, but theres a definitive rattle down below. I am gonna look..
Thanks.
I think you gave me insight to two items.. A rattle under load, (accelleration), and a second gear grind now and then.. My reverse is a painin the *** too at times, but theres a definitive rattle down below. I am gonna look..
Thanks.
When you get the box out, look at the two bushings that the shifter rod moves fore and aft through. They also can split and shred and cause slop and rattles. If they are split, the only fix is a new shifter box which goes for about $150 through Gene at GMPartsHouse.com.