A6 Cam Install - Need Higher Stall?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
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From: Madison WI
A6 Cam Install - Need Higher Stall?
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a heads/cam package from TSP, but I really don't want to have to get a higher stall as well. How large of a cam can the stock converter handle? The cam I'm looking at is 228/228 (228R), but I can go a little smaller (224/228 or 224/224) if it means I don't have to get a higher stall. Any advice?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Madison WI
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,442
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From: Winchester CA
it really depends on the tuner, and the cam... a 228r you likely want a stall simply for the fact A) it maybe be a little lazy in the lowend (slightly), b) it may want to push though the brakes a tad at stoplights because of the raise idle speed... that all being said with a proper tune you shouldnt have no other driveability issues
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
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From: Madison WI
it really depends on the tuner, and the cam... a 228r you likely want a stall simply for the fact A) it maybe be a little lazy in the lowend (slightly), b) it may want to push though the brakes a tad at stoplights because of the raise idle speed... that all being said with a proper tune you shouldnt have no other driveability issues
).
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,331
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From: Missouri City Texas
A converter would be more fun on the street than a 224R cam.
I don't understand why so many people with autos are so against converters. It's quite literally one of the best mods you could do
I don't understand why so many people with autos are so against converters. It's quite literally one of the best mods you could do
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
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From: Madison WI
I agree. Can anyone else give any insight into this question? I know some people may have high 220 or even low 230 duration cams with the stock converter, but how does it drive? Is it even worth it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,050
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From: DFW TX
A good friend of mine had a 234/240 615 ish lift cam in his C5 with a stock converter. It ran just fine. Idled a little higher at like 1000 rpm but it ran fine. He did eventually add a 3200 stall though.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 238
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From: swedeboro new jersey
PM AndrewZPSU. He may have the exact cam you are looking for. He raised his comp and is running a small cam with stock stall. He runs 10.9s at 130 with the stock stall. I've gone for rides in his car and there is no stalling or hesitation. I am going with a slightly bigger cam, but I am going with a 3600 stall. If Andrew added a stall, he would easly run close to 10.5s.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,042
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From: Charleston SC
I have a 2006 C6 with AFR 205's and a 224/224 115lsa with .6xx/.6xx lift with the stock converter. It drives normal to the average person. I can tell that it barely wants to push through the brakes at stoplights but it's something that most people wouldn't notice unless I point it out. I have a 3600 rpm FTI converter in my garage that I'm going to install soon.
I have 3.31 gears so it might help out versus stock gears...
I have 3.31 gears so it might help out versus stock gears...
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 399
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From: jacksonville fla
I could not agree more. Excluding NOS a good converter is one of the best mods you can do on an A4 or A6. Especially if you're going to add a high performance cam.
Last edited by mitchell c; Dec 23, 2011 at 11:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Monroe Township New Jersey
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You can get a custom built & tuned converter with very good street manners
or
if you decide on a cam, the idea is to match the cam to the comverter the 228 could use a converter because it may need a bit of help on low end (or the correct gear will also help if you don't want a converter) while the 224 would is possibly ok without a converter.
You use gearing or a converter to make up for the change in the power band due to the cam change
While Andrew has gone 10.9s in his LS3 I have gone 11.2 in my LS2 without a cam and just a 2800 stall converter & bolt ons. So there is always more than one way to go fast
good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 27,253
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From: Short Hills, NJ
Andrew also has some mild cylinder head work done as well, though I'm not sure if that would make the stock converter more street friendly or even less.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 393
Likes: 11
From: Toronto Ontario
If you do HPDE's, the higher stall converters create more heat in the transmission and can limit time on track.
If it's for street and drag, then a converter upgrade is definitely the way to go. If you are adding a higher stall speed converter, consider upgrading your transmission cooling if you are going to be doing a lot of passes, live in hot climate, or spend too much time stuck in traffic.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,331
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From: Missouri City Texas
Depends upon how you use your car.
If you do HPDE's, the higher stall converters create more heat in the transmission and can limit time on track.
If it's for street and drag, then a converter upgrade is definitely the way to go. If you are adding a higher stall speed converter, consider upgrading your transmission cooling if you are going to be doing a lot of passes, live in hot climate, or spend too much time stuck in traffic.
If you do HPDE's, the higher stall converters create more heat in the transmission and can limit time on track.
If it's for street and drag, then a converter upgrade is definitely the way to go. If you are adding a higher stall speed converter, consider upgrading your transmission cooling if you are going to be doing a lot of passes, live in hot climate, or spend too much time stuck in traffic.
The Yank 3200, that I complain about oh so often, does not produce enough heat in Houston (100+ in the summer) to warrant a cooler.
If I tracked it more often I'd get an external cooler, which is only what...50 bucks?
For street driving I wouldn't worry about the heat, but I would for track days.
