Horizontal spring removal to install coilovers
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 2
From: La Mesa California
Horizontal spring removal to install coilovers
I am going to install new GT2 Coilovers this week, and new cross drilled rotors. What is the best procedure to jack up and remove the springs etc. I purchased 4 C6 pucks, 2 small 2-1/2 ton low profile floor jacks, I have 4 jack stands, 4-12 ton hydulic jacks. I have looked at the bugman appoach. Anymore advise would help. Other than telling me to take it to a garage. LOL
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 815
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From: Georgetown TX
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,974
Likes: 14
From: Pinellas Park Fl
St. Jude Donor '08-'09 & '12, '14
Remove the upper control arm bolts, mark and save any washers behind the T bars and reinstall during reassembly, this way you don't have to mess with ball joints etc. and the shocks have plenty of room to come out. The spindla and all will drop to allow removal of the shocks and spring.
Speedy
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,112
Likes: 931
From: Tn
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Remove the upper control arm bolts, mark and save any washers behind the T bars and reinstall during reassembly, this way you don't have to mess with ball joints etc. and the shocks have plenty of room to come out. The spindla and all will drop to allow removal of the shocks and spring.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,974
Likes: 14
From: Pinellas Park Fl
St. Jude Donor '08-'09 & '12, '14
Do both sides, sometimes you may have to undo the swap bar end links to swing the arms down far enough, but not always.
of course, you still have to remove the spring retaining bolts on the subframes .... and then slide out one side or the other.
It's a casual days worth of work for all 4 shocks and both springs.
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Speedy
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,112
Likes: 931
From: Tn
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I was in a tiny 1 car garage so I removed the lowers as well. Don't mess with the ball joints, just mark, mark again and unbolt.
The front upper control arms get 48ft lbs torque, 48 rear. The lower mounts get 80 all around
Torque specs
Are you corner balancing?
The front upper control arms get 48ft lbs torque, 48 rear. The lower mounts get 80 all around
Torque specs
Are you corner balancing?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 2
From: La Mesa California
If you mean by corner balancing, using scales, No.. I don't plan on doing any racing, I just looking for better ride and handling on the highway when the old guy gets frisky. I'm also upgrading to Baer Cross drilled rotors at the same time. Hell it took this old broken guy all day yesterday to get it jacked up, and un bolt all the rear stuff. Just have to get this dame spring out. I'm just doing 1 end at a time, is it real necessary to have the all 4 apart before putting it back together. I can do that, I just have to raise the front up more and part stands up front. Going back at it now, hope you can reply asap. You've been a great help.
Speedy
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,112
Likes: 931
From: Tn
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I mean the only reason you have to do both fronts at once is for the pesky spring. I did the front first and kept the rear intact as a model how to put it all back.
When you go to tighten the upper mounts of your new front coil overs the unit will rotate as you torque the bolt down, use a pry bar or large screw driver to prevent the twisting and get an accurate torque reading.
also add about 1/16th height to both driver side units as the driver side sinks when you get in (cave man corner balance).
also before you torque anything put your wheels on and set the car down and measure the floor to fender height, if you are happy with where it sits remove wheels and torque everything.
When you go to tighten the upper mounts of your new front coil overs the unit will rotate as you torque the bolt down, use a pry bar or large screw driver to prevent the twisting and get an accurate torque reading.
also add about 1/16th height to both driver side units as the driver side sinks when you get in (cave man corner balance).
also before you torque anything put your wheels on and set the car down and measure the floor to fender height, if you are happy with where it sits remove wheels and torque everything.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,684
Likes: 77
From: Orlando FL
Doing the upper A arm method can be a pain if removing the standard ride mega arch spring.
Easy to mark the lower bolts and remove them, once the spindle & brake assy is rotated up and out of the way the spring drops straight down and can do it in a small space. You are going to have to get an alignment anyway.
If doing coilovers for the track "which is the only reason I can think of", you may want to rethink the drilled rotors.
Easy to mark the lower bolts and remove them, once the spindle & brake assy is rotated up and out of the way the spring drops straight down and can do it in a small space. You are going to have to get an alignment anyway.
If doing coilovers for the track "which is the only reason I can think of", you may want to rethink the drilled rotors.