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My 05 coupe has been in storage since October, and I'm concerned about the top end lubrication after all that time. Did I see a post about if you try to start at WOT that the engine will turn over but not start? If true sounds like what we used to do back in the day by pulling the coil lead off the distributor cap. I know may just be a noob question, hope not to stupid.
Yea, that's what they say and many here have reported doing it. It's nerve racking to think about it if the system doesn't do what it's supposed to do though.
Personally, I decided to pull the fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse block. Then crank it a few times until the oil pressure comes up. Replace the fuse and it starts right up. Probably a little more involved than necessary but I just feel safer doing that.
Opening the throttle all the way and then hitting the starter will put all GM electronic fuel injection engine systems into Clear Flood mode and the fuel will be cutoff while the throttle is open. Probably does that on all other makes as well. Been that way for right around 30 years now. So if the OP wants to do that it will spin the engine without starting it but I sort of doubt it would do much good since engine speed is very slow when cranking like that. IMO it would be best to let it start and idle for a couple of minutes and then drive around easily. Even though the engine has been sitting around for 6 months an oil film is still covering all of the moving parts.
If it were mine and it had been sitting 6 months.....I would just start it normally. My area of concern would be the cylinder walls and piston rings and they are mostly splash lubricated anyway and just spinning the starter would put less oil on the cylinders than starting the engine. I would NOT rev it and would let it run for a few minutes before driving it. Just my opinion and your mileage may vary.
Cranking up the engine and not letting it start will not put oil anywhere any better than just starting her up and let her idle for a few minutes. A dry crank is a dry crank, but it's not really dry anyway. It'll take 1/2 a second to pump oil with idle and then will keep pumping.
On bob the oil guys website he talks about this.you will be ok......i'l see if i can find it........just let it idle.takes a very long time for oil to reach "operating" temp..........
External electronic oil pump that is used for oil circulation and heating prior to startup. Basically its a modified oilpan, or uses the stock oil drainplug location to pump oil from the oil pan--through a pressure line---through a small electronic external oil pump an heater and---then pumps it into the heads via a Tapped location or stock location already located on the heads.
I had this on my 1,000hp Evo. worked really well. Only used it for pre start if it had sat for awhile.
All this "let it idle for a few minutes" to "idle 15 minutes" is all unnecessary. As soon as you have oil pressure, oil has reached the top of the engine. It take seconds, not minutes. You actually do more harm letting the engine warm up at idle compared to driving gently (more time spent at low temps). Just start it and drive it. Don't beat on it until fully warmed up.
All this "let it idle for a few minutes" to "idle 15 minutes" is all unnecessary. As soon as you have oil pressure, oil has reached the top of the engine. It take seconds, not minutes. You actually do more harm letting the engine warm up at idle compared to driving gently (more time spent at low temps). Just start it and drive it. Don't beat on it until fully warmed up.
I would have to disagree, there is more to it than oil pressure. Could be coolant leak or fuel problems. If you just drive away...you could be afoot if a problem develops. I would let it idle until it is up to operating temp. before driving after it sat unstarted for 6 months. Then I would do a quick pretrip...tire pressure, check for leaks, listen for odd engine sounds closely monitor gauges and then drive it. The odds would be against a failure.
I would have to disagree, there is more to it than oil pressure. Could be coolant leak or fuel problems. If you just drive away...you could be afoot if a problem develops. I would let it idle until it is up to operating temp. before driving after it sat unstarted for 6 months. Then I would do a quick pretrip...tire pressure, check for leaks, listen for odd engine sounds closely monitor gauges and then drive it. The odds would be against a failure.
I was only refering to engine wear due to lack of lubrication and cold operation. One could (and should) easily check tire pressures, look for other leaks, etc, without the car idling cold for long periods of time.