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Hello, I have been reading on here now for some time and can't really make a good decision on what I should do to remedy my clutch problem. Its a near stock, 2008 M6 with 13000 miles on it. It sits a lot more than I like. I took it out the other day from sitting for some time (5 months) I start if from time to time and back it out the garage. First thing I noticed this time is that the clutch pedal feel was much different, much lighter. It didn't stick, still has plenty of spring, its just lighter and just seemed off. I took it out and it's now slipping. I test it a few times to confirm... Any time I to over 4500 rpm in 3rd or 4th it slips. I tried dumping it at 3000 rpm in second, and it would not hold. I am not sure what to do. I changed all the fluid, Ranger Method. Its hard for me to believe that a car with this many miles would have a burnt up clutch... To me it seems like a master or slave cylinder issue, but not 100% sure. I was about to just order a Tick adjustable and see what that does, but I wanted to get some opinions first. I'm just trying to alleviate this issue at the lowest possible level. Any advise would be greatly appreciated
No, the clutch is not wet. I basically want to know if others have experienced this issue. I know many have had the sticky clutch pedal where it sticks the floor, but mine doesn't stick, it's just really easy to push to push to the floor about 3/4's down and then the last 1/4 strock till it's bottom'd out is quite stiff. and then there's the slippage. Its like there is air in the system, but it seems so many have tried that and it's hasn't done anything. I don't want to go through with ripping it apart just to bleed it when I don't need to. So if you have experience this or know how to fix this issue please help. Somebody please just tell me I need to replace the master and call it a day!
No, the clutch is not wet. I basically want to know if others have experienced this issue. I know many have had the sticky clutch pedal where it sticks the floor, but mine doesn't stick, it's just really easy to push to push to the floor about 3/4's down and then the last 1/4 strock till it's bottom'd out is quite stiff. and then there's the slippage. Its like there is air in the system, but it seems so many have tried that and it's hasn't done anything. I don't want to go through with ripping it apart just to bleed it when I don't need to. So if you have experience this or know how to fix this issue please help. Somebody please just tell me I need to replace the master and call it a day!
Well I would get the tick adjustable just to get it. Im going to buy one REAL soon to get rid of my clutch inconsinstencies. Sounds like a slave problem to me though.
It sounds very similar to what I was experiencing. I also have a 2008 m6. I ha closer to 50k miles though. I ended having to replace the clutch with an aftermarket unit and slave cylinder. Then about a month after that the master clutch cylinder. What I found out was my flywheel had hundreds of hot spots on it. I replaced it and now everything's good.
Well I didn't get the responses I would have liked, but I ordered a Tick master cylinder anyway. If its not the problem, oh well, I here they are great units anyway.
Always monitor your clutch fluid. it gets contaminated quickly in the C6 corvette. My master clutch cylinder (located behind the driver fender well) and slave cylinder (located in the bell housing both gave out at about 20k miles. I found out it was because the clutch fliud had become so contaminated it started to wear the seals out. If the slave cylinder goes out you will usually see clutch fluid leaking from your bell housing. if its the master clutch cylinder you wont see any fluid at all, but both will give the same symptoms if either failed. I monitor my fluid very closely now and change it often now that I had LG motorsprts install a remote clutch bleeder system after the repairs and adding a RPS billet twin disk clutch. Most likely I am 95% sure this is what happened to your corvette. (THE REMOTE CLUTCH BLEEDER IS A MUST HAVE IF YOUR REPLACING THE SLAVE CYLINDER) it is so damn easy to change the fluid now.
Last edited by superscout03; Feb 21, 2012 at 01:21 PM.
Nothing in the master cylinder or the slave cylinder is connected to the slipping. You could remove both of them from the car completely and it would not cause clutch slipping. The hydraulic system is only used to release the clutch, not to engage it. The engagement is handled by the diaphragm spring and the lining and flywheel. Something is wrong in that area if the clutch is slipping. And I agree that if the clutch is worked on, a remote bleeder is a no-brainer as it is cheap and the labor is the big cost in the installation.
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Many good points made in the thread already, if it turns out you are in need of a clutch (which it sounds like you are) feel free to PM me on pricing and clutch options. I would recommend the Mantic single for your application.
Its difficult for me to imagine that the material in the clutch has magically evaporated over the last 5 months from sitting in my garage and I now need a new clutch. 13000 miles? This car has never seen the strip or the track. Is there a possibility that the master cylinder or slave, or the line between them is failing to return all the fluid and is not completely disengaging the clutch? Or would it more likely be a failed component in the clutch? springs in there or something?
Its difficult for me to imagine that the material in the clutch has magically evaporated over the last 5 months from sitting in my garage and I now need a new clutch. 13000 miles? This car has never seen the strip or the track. Is there a possibility that the master cylinder or slave, or the line between them is failing to return all the fluid and is not completely disengaging the clutch? Or would it more likely be a failed component in the clutch? springs in there or something?
It could be a number of things...for example, if the slave cylinder has leaked and soaked the clutch with fluid, it would slip. Or if the diaphragm spring has had a problem, then the clutch is not clamping as it should and will slip. If the hydraulic system is not disengaging the clutch completely, then you would most likely have noticed it in that the shifting would be difficult...as it is if one tries to shift without fully depressing the pedal. But if the car is going along the highway, you could take a pair of wire cutters and cut the line between the master cylinder and the slave and it would have no effect whatsoever until you wanted to change gears. It would not cause the clutch to slip when you accelerate.
Any possibility the clutch got wet with a slippery fluid such as clutch fluid or engine oil?
Well, I was able to get under my car today and I was surprised to see the abundance of oil accumulating around the oil pan. 13K miles and I have a damn oil leak! This is the reason I sold my C4! I guess it would be possible for this oil to be spread into the bell housing and on the clutch. It is definitely oil, not clutch fluid. I am going to contact our corvette dealer here in Germany and see if I can get that fixed under warranty. I still believe there is an issue with the master or slave cylinders though. What luck I have. Thanks for all of your inputs so far.
If anybody has any thoughts on over seas warranty for a 2008, shoot!