Fresh FAST 102 install throwing codes?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Williamsport Pa
Fresh FAST 102 install throwing codes?
Just put the 2006 C6 back together. Fast 102 ported intake & original throttle body ported. The check engine light is now on. I am going to have a friend run the codes for me ASAP I am just curious as to if anyone has gone through this & is this normal prior to having it re dyno tuned. Is the MAF or O2 sensors registering something outside normal stock parameters & the ECM can't adjust for it? Any ideas, please.
Another unrelated question......if you lower all 4 lowering bolts until they stop shouldn't the car be level?
Another unrelated question......if you lower all 4 lowering bolts until they stop shouldn't the car be level?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 972
Likes: 11
From: Dawsonville, GA
I had no issues when I did my Fast102. I'd go back over it to be sure you didn't miss something or forget to plug something in. Did you drill to hole in the intake for the MAP sensor ?
Cranking all 4 bolts down will leave the rear too high, with the front perfect. I had to sawzall half the rubber bumpers off the rear stops to drop the rear down enough on mine.
Cranking all 4 bolts down will leave the rear too high, with the front perfect. I had to sawzall half the rubber bumpers off the rear stops to drop the rear down enough on mine.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Williamsport Pa
I went back out to the garage, disconnected the battery. Reconnected the battery a couple minutes later and no more check engine light. I drove it around awhile and it never came back on. The install was kinda easy that is why I was surprised when the light initially came on.
The issue I have is the right front seems to be a little bit lower than the left front.
The issue I have is the right front seems to be a little bit lower than the left front.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 48
From: NCM Lifetime#2195 Bulverde, Texas 78163
St. Jude Donor '13
I went back out to the garage, disconnected the battery. Reconnected the battery a couple minutes later and no more check engine light. I drove it around awhile and it never came back on. The install was kinda easy that is why I was surprised when the light initially came on.
The issue I have is the right front seems to be a little bit lower than the left front.
The issue I have is the right front seems to be a little bit lower than the left front.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
I have the Same issue. Throwing codes.
car was previously tuned by Newera...
just installed the thing..
didnt remove the lower floor bolts...
started the car, check engine light, HUGE hesitation off mashing the throttle. can tip in fine...
removed the fast.
installed the valley pan head bolts.
re-installed.
same thing. .
help!
car was previously tuned by Newera...
just installed the thing..
didnt remove the lower floor bolts...
started the car, check engine light, HUGE hesitation off mashing the throttle. can tip in fine...
removed the fast.
installed the valley pan head bolts.
re-installed.
same thing. .
help!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 972
Likes: 11
From: Dawsonville, GA
I guess you fellas that can't read simple instructions might have problems like this. 
It clearly says to remove the valley plate bolts and replace them with the button head bolts. There are also small rubber bumpers that should be stuck under the intake for support. Did you install THOSE ?
Did you make sure all the port O-rings were seated/installed properly around the intake ports ? Did you smear a little lube around them to help them seal ? Did you drill the hole needed for the MAP sensor to work ? Did you plug the unused rear vac port ? Did you check and tighten the small factory installed bolts in the ends of the intake that hold the two halves together ?
Cranking the intake down on the taller valley plate bolts may have cracked or warped it.
Small things (missed attention to detail) can cause big problems.
You guys that keep having problems with these intakes, probably shouldn't be installing them. It's one of the simplest bolt-on mods you can do.
It clearly says to remove the valley plate bolts and replace them with the button head bolts. There are also small rubber bumpers that should be stuck under the intake for support. Did you install THOSE ?
Did you make sure all the port O-rings were seated/installed properly around the intake ports ? Did you smear a little lube around them to help them seal ? Did you drill the hole needed for the MAP sensor to work ? Did you plug the unused rear vac port ? Did you check and tighten the small factory installed bolts in the ends of the intake that hold the two halves together ?
Cranking the intake down on the taller valley plate bolts may have cracked or warped it.
Small things (missed attention to detail) can cause big problems.
You guys that keep having problems with these intakes, probably shouldn't be installing them. It's one of the simplest bolt-on mods you can do.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
I guess you fellas that can't read simple instructions might have problems like this.
It clearly says to remove the valley plate bolts and replace them with the button head bolts. There are also small rubber bumpers that should be stuck under the intake for support. Did you install THOSE ?
Did you make sure all the port O-rings were seated/installed properly around the intake ports ? Did you smear a little lube around them to help them seal ? Did you drill the hole needed for the MAP sensor to work ? Did you plug the unused rear vac port ? Did you check and tighten the small factory installed bolts in the ends of the intake that hold the two halves together ?
Cranking the intake down on the taller valley plate bolts may have cracked or warped it.
Small things (missed attention to detail) can cause big problems.
You guys that keep having problems with these intakes, probably shouldn't be installing them. It's one of the simplest bolt-on mods you can do.
It clearly says to remove the valley plate bolts and replace them with the button head bolts. There are also small rubber bumpers that should be stuck under the intake for support. Did you install THOSE ?
Did you make sure all the port O-rings were seated/installed properly around the intake ports ? Did you smear a little lube around them to help them seal ? Did you drill the hole needed for the MAP sensor to work ? Did you plug the unused rear vac port ? Did you check and tighten the small factory installed bolts in the ends of the intake that hold the two halves together ?
Cranking the intake down on the taller valley plate bolts may have cracked or warped it.
Small things (missed attention to detail) can cause big problems.
You guys that keep having problems with these intakes, probably shouldn't be installing them. It's one of the simplest bolt-on mods you can do.
retorqued the shell down properly.
did not put any grease on the seals, they were seated.
upon removal, no cracks located...
hole for MAP fine..
plugged rear port
Its not that i cant read, read here a while back that it wasnt necessary to install the shorter bolt heads... ?? idk..
either way... this is frustrating.
anyway to read the codes without a scanner?
