Brake pad replacement
thanks
Mike
Last edited by MikeP; Apr 10, 2012 at 03:54 PM. Reason: spelling errors
I would say go with the 1 piece pad. Much easier to deal with, and you could even try ceramic so you are not getting all the sooty brake dust.

My car now, 06 C6 Z51, only has 17K miles on it, so I have a ways to go before I change the pads. Probably will go with ceramic again though.
As OZER says, if GM put padletts on the braking system, there had to be a reason. Do some research.


I wrote this how-to after installing Hawk ceramic padlets in my 2012 GS.
It is not necessary to remove the calipers when replacing brake pads, so in this procedure, we are not going to be removing the 2 large caliper mount bolts .
1. Locate the guide pins on the caliper. You will see 4 pins on each of the front calipers, and 3 pins on each rear caliper. That is just for the outside of the calipers, but there are the same amount of guide pins on the inside (backside) of the calipers too.
2. Use a Torx-45 bit attached to a 3/8” socket wrench to remove all these guide pins .. Be advised .. some people will tell you that you only need to remove the center guide pins, but after doing this job, I can tell you that you want to remove all of them. Actually, the guide pins were really very easy to remove.
Note: 2007 and earlier models may have Allen heads instead of Torx heads on these guide pins
3. The old padlets can now be grasped with a pair of pliers and removed.
4. Once the padlets are all removed, compress each piston using a small C-clamp. This will make it easier to install the new padlets. A small block of wood may be used on the outer side of the caliper to protect it if the C-clamp you are using don’t have plastic parts that contact the calipers.
Note: The reservoir on the brake master cylinder should be no more than 1/2 full prior to compessing the pistons in the calipers. Otherwise, fluid may flow out of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are compressed.
5. Clean each guide pin you remove with brake cleaner, and apply a little High Temp Brake Parts Lubricant to each guide pin (this is usually included with the new padlets).
6. First, install the lower guide pin
7. Then insert the padlet, and then the next guide pin. There should be some movement of the pad when the pins are installed properly.
Note: You will see a little tab on each padlet. That tab points to the outside of the caliper.
8. Proceed by installing the padlets from the bottom to the top of the caliper.
9. When all the pads are pins are inserted, torque the guide pins to 30 ft-lbs.
Replacing Brake Padlets With the Calipers Removed:
To many, this is actually the perferred method of replacing the brake padlets.
If you do elect to remove the calipers, you will need a vey long # 21mm wrench and/or a # 21mm socket with a 1/2” drive ratchet in order to remove the 2 caliper mount bolts. The re-torque spec on these 2 bolts, I believe, is 129 ft-lbs.
If the calipers are removed, I was told that you do not need to remove any of the guide pins in order to remove or replace the brake padlets, but personally, I can't see how the padlets can be reomoved with the guide pins still installed.
Note: I attempted to remove my calipers, but the caliper mount bolts were so damned tight, I could not remove them even by hammering on the 1/2” drive wratchet with a large hammer
… good Luck!
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Here is the $6.00 clamp I bought at Lowes. It's small and cheap, but it works GREAT on the pistons in our calipers:

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Last edited by Turbo6TA; Apr 11, 2012 at 11:23 AM.










ke

