When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I doubt there's 10rwhp left in the tune for that cam to already be dynoing 482
The easiest way to get 500rwhp is just do a few dyno tricks. Dynoing "500rwhp" will only mean you dynod 500rwhp on that particular dyno. I wouldn't worry about spending much time or money hunting for a dyno number.
First thing you should do is get a tune and see where you stand. From there you can decide better what you need and who knows. You might be closer to 500RWHP than you think if the car is running too rich and you can still safely pull some fuel to gain power.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
UD pulley alone should get you around 8rwhp
I doubt there's 10rwhp left in the tune for that cam to already be dynoing 482
The easiest way to get 500rwhp is just do a few dyno tricks. Dynoing "500rwhp" will only mean you dynod 500rwhp on that particular dyno. I wouldn't worry about spending much time or money hunting for a dyno number.
I know what your saying but I dont want to pull any tricks, just want to find 18 real HP by messing with the car. Hell if I can get to 510 even better. Yeah I was surprised that the car put down that kind of power with bolt ons and that cam.
I know what your saying but I dont want to pull any tricks, just want to find 18 real HP by messing with the car. Hell if I can get to 510 even better. Yeah I was surprised that the car put down that kind of power with bolt ons and that cam.
The point he was making is that dyno numbers don't really mean anything. You're well within the percentage region for different dynos in different regions and climates.
I've seen one dynojet read 20% higher than another. and nearly all of them read substantially higher than a superflo or mustang dyno.
The point being is you goal shouldn't necessarily be to reach 500rwhp on a dyno, but instead to be able to "run a certain ET, or a certain lap time."
A dyno is a tuning tool. The only real way to calculate power is to take the car to the track. Load over time equals power. You can make 700 hp on a dyno, but if you don't run the numbers at the track, all you end up with is a fancy piece of paper.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by JLMounce
The point he was making is that dyno numbers don't really mean anything. You're well within the percentage region for different dynos in different regions and climates.
I've seen one dynojet read 20% higher than another. and nearly all of them read substantially higher than a superflo or mustang dyno.
The point being is you goal shouldn't necessarily be to reach 500rwhp on a dyno, but instead to be able to "run a certain ET, or a certain lap time."
A dyno is a tuning tool. The only real way to calculate power is to take the car to the track. Load over time equals power. You can make 700 hp on a dyno, but if you don't run the numbers at the track, all you end up with is a fancy piece of paper.
I understand that the dyno is a tuning tool but to completely discount the dyno being the best measurement of HP/TQ is not founded either. Times can vary based on 60ft, DA, tire spin, elevation or descent of the 1320, etc. So to say that your 1/4 mile time is a more precise measurement of true HP/TQ than is a dyno is, in my opinion, not founded. Understand I am not being adversarial here, just stating my view and perception
I got my vett set up this way. LG Pro Long Tube Headers with Metal Catalytic Converters, Vararam VR-SC1R, LG G6X3 Cam Kit, Spring kit, Push Rods, Cam Gear, ASP C5 Underdrive Pulley Kit, Milled Heads, LG Super Wire Kit, 410 gears with harden shafts. I do not have the dyno sheet but it does make over 500 rwhp. England Green did the 4.10 gears and half shafts and LG did the engine work and tune. The milled heads and flycut the pistons if needed should get you what you are looking for. This is just my thought. Good luck reaching your numbers and keep us updated.
Minor stuff would help....but more cam for the win. Low 230's intake and a little more on the exhaust on a 113 to 116lsa should get you there. The cam you have is pretty mild if wanting those numbers.
I'd use your ported manifold/throttle body. It has obviously proven to be just as good as the 102 given your current goals. Now if you plan on more cubes in the future, it might be beneficial to get the fast now.
That cam seems like an odd choice. Tons of overlap with a huge lsa.
UDP is a day job and imo, well worth the work. 8-10whp is 8-10whp any way you slice it.
I'd get some TR6s if you don't already have them.
You know how my car dynos and performs and I'm anxious for the cool weather to return to see what new PR I can achieve.
The first thing I'd do is dyno it on a local dyno to get a baseline there. You may find that it only makes 450ish rwhp.
You need to use the same dyno for before/after runs. You can't start with the baseline of 482 if it was dynod elsewhere. You may change the pulley and headgaskets and still end up with less than 482rwhp simply because the original dyno was generous.
The first thing I'd do is dyno it on a local dyno to get a baseline there. You may find that it only makes 450ish rwhp.
You need to use the same dyno for before/after runs. You can't start with the baseline of 482 if it was dynod elsewhere. You may change the pulley and headgaskets and still end up with less than 482rwhp simply because the original dyno was generous.