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I have used them on others cars but not the vette. I have a 2010 LS3.
1) What is the percentage of underdrive and are there different percentages offered for the vette.
2) Average HP gain; any dyno or track results from just adding a pulley.
3) Does it affect the cooling or charging system, if so how much.
4) Best brand to use and price range.
If I do one, I would like to get the right one. Thanks
I have used them on others cars but not the vette. I have a 2010 LS3.
1) What is the percentage of underdrive and are there different percentages offered for the vette.
2) Average HP gain; any dyno or track results from just adding a pulley.
3) Does it affect the cooling or charging system, if so how much.
4) Best brand to use and price range.
If I do one, I would like to get the right one. Thanks
I recently did one on my 08 and though I do not have the timeslip to back it up, it DEFINITELY is stronger... NO DOUBT.. This is an A6 car with longtubes and already runs 12.20's . Its an SLP 25% and theres no ill affect of cooling or charging... PLAN ON ABOUT 3-4 hours for the install..
I have used them on others cars but not the vette. I have a 2010 LS3.
1) What is the percentage of underdrive and are there different percentages offered for the vette.
2) Average HP gain; any dyno or track results from just adding a pulley.
3) Does it affect the cooling or charging system, if so how much.
4) Best brand to use and price range.
If I do one, I would like to get the right one. Thanks
Unless you are doing a cam swap or something, its not worth the gain for the amount of work involved to swap it. The whole steering rack and all has to come out to get the pulley off. I put a 25% u/d pulley on mine when I did my cam swap, no way I would have done it otherwise. People say they are work 8-10rwhp or so. You may have to raise the idle slightly to get proper charging at idle. (Not an issue with a cam swap as the idle is normally increased anyway).
I have used them on others cars but not the vette. I have a 2010 LS3.
1) What is the percentage of underdrive and are there different percentages offered for the vette. 10% and 25% are your 2 choices
2) Average HP gain; any dyno or track results from just adding a pulley. I don't know of anyone who has done a back to back test, but 7-10whp is the norm for a 25% UDP. The car doesn't make any extra power, but power is freed up as a result of the slower spinning accessories.
3) Does it affect the cooling or charging system, if so how much. This is a highly debated topic when it comes to an UDP. Some people have issues, but from the research I did before buying one myself, the increased idle speed makes up for the slower spinning alternator at idle and no adverse effects are present. I have a 25% UDP in my car and also a tiny 17lb motorcycle battery in my car and have yet to experience any issues with charging or starting after the car has sat for over a week. I do not use a trickle charger. The deka battery just plain works.
4) Best brand to use and price range. After reading of multiple people snapping timing chains with a particular UDP, I would go with either a Powerbond or ATI. I have a good buddy(taken19) who road races often and snapped a C5R timing chain within a year. There have been a few different threads about this and road race+that brand of UDP=bad harmonics and a broken timing chain.
If I do one, I would like to get the right one. Thanks
I had a 750 idle for months and had 0 issues with starting, voltage, a/c blowing cold, etc. The car ran perfectly. Considering that's a 25% idle speed increase from stock and I had a 25% underdrive pulley, I think it was a wash.
I haven't heard anything negative about the Powerbond brand of UDP but if I had to do it all over again, I'd go with an ATI I think. It's possible the notion of snapping a timing chain is very rare but even still, the extra $300 would be worth the peace of mind to me. The only reason I didn't buy one to begin with was because I was misinformed and thought ATI did not come in a 25% version.
Do not buy ASP, that's what most likely caused my timing chain to break. In a discussion with Jason Katech, he told me that ASP pulleys have been responsible for at least 12 timing chain failures that he seen. As Justin mentioned, ATI or Powerbond appear to be the 2 best out there. Don't make a $10k mistake like I did using an inferior brand...
Just remember if your Grand sport is a Manual and then has the dry sump your crank snout length will be different as well as the bolt and the regular LS# pulley won't work, haven't done all the research yet but I am looking (will call ATI) and think the ZO6 pulley might be the way we'll have to go...
Last edited by Kerrdogg; May 23, 2012 at 02:36 PM.
I went with a Powebond 10% UD pulley and have had it on for a little over a year with no issues. I ordered the ATI and they were on back order for a while at the time so after much research switched my order to the PB. I think it is a very nice piece and would buy another without hesitation.
Originally Posted by taken19
Do not buy ASP, that's what most likely caused my timing chain to break. In a discussion with Jason Katech, he told me that ASP pulleys have been responsible for at least 12 timing chain failures that he seen. As Justin mentioned, ATI or Powerbond appear to be the 2 best out there. Don't make a $10k mistake like I did using an inferior brand...
In tracking the broken timing chain threads there were two pieces coming up often, the ASP was the more predominate but there was a certain spring in probably 75% or more of the reported failures..probably more of a coincidence as they were pretty popular throughout the timeline.
In tracking the broken timing chain threads there were two pieces coming up often, the ASP was the more predominate but there was a certain spring in probably 75% or more of the reported failures..probably more of a coincidence as they were pretty popular throughout the timeline.