Checked my '12 Grandsport alignment today..
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 66
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Checked my '12 Grandsport alignment today..
Here's a factory alignment reference for you guys;
I had the alignment checked on my '12 GS w/ @ 1,300 mls. It doesn't pull, tracks perfectly straight, etc, but I wanted to ensure the factory alignment was in spec.
Note that I lowered the rear to the max with exactly 2 turns on the factory bolts, & 3 turns lower on the fronts (not max'd out); This has only lowered it @ 1/3" so far, but I've read it might 'settle' lower.
Front:
Camber: Left -1.0, Right -0.8
Caster: Left 7.2, Right 7.1
Toe: Left 0.02, Right 0.03
Rear:
Camber: Left -0.9, Right -1.0
Toe: Left 0.02, Right 0.02
I didn't have them change anything, even though I'd prefer -1.0 front right camber, but I'll get it track weighed, which will likely require lowering bolt adjustment, then I'll get it aligned to the mildest Pfadt street/track specs.
An interesting note; a few years ago I had my boxster s alignment checked by two shops within about 30 minutes, & they each had different readings, nothing extreme, but different. As a result, I think various run-of-the-mill alignment shops will show different readings, so I actually don't have much faith in their numbers anyway, but will settle for 'in-spec'.
I had the alignment checked on my '12 GS w/ @ 1,300 mls. It doesn't pull, tracks perfectly straight, etc, but I wanted to ensure the factory alignment was in spec.
Note that I lowered the rear to the max with exactly 2 turns on the factory bolts, & 3 turns lower on the fronts (not max'd out); This has only lowered it @ 1/3" so far, but I've read it might 'settle' lower.
Front:
Camber: Left -1.0, Right -0.8
Caster: Left 7.2, Right 7.1
Toe: Left 0.02, Right 0.03
Rear:
Camber: Left -0.9, Right -1.0
Toe: Left 0.02, Right 0.02
I didn't have them change anything, even though I'd prefer -1.0 front right camber, but I'll get it track weighed, which will likely require lowering bolt adjustment, then I'll get it aligned to the mildest Pfadt street/track specs.
An interesting note; a few years ago I had my boxster s alignment checked by two shops within about 30 minutes, & they each had different readings, nothing extreme, but different. As a result, I think various run-of-the-mill alignment shops will show different readings, so I actually don't have much faith in their numbers anyway, but will settle for 'in-spec'.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
Great info. But have you seen the specs? Are ridiculously wide man, so I'd focus on what kind of driving you're mostly going to be doing. But at least your numbers are pretty close, and not all over the place from one another (but still within spec). The camber spec roughly goes from +0.2 to -1.2 (0.45+/-0.60), which is a crapload of difference. I'd like to have mine at -0.5 all around, which is the middle of the spec, and where car should be IMO. I also suspect mine is more at the extreme end, like yours. Even when rear of the car is in the air, I can see the aggressive negative camber. First time I see a car in the air not turning into positive camber when lifted, even with double-A arm suspension. That means this car basically has no change as suspension travels, but might be different on top, when car is lowered. It'd have been great to check it before lowering yours, but I suspect it didn't change at all. Or nothing measurable. Take care.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 66
From: San Luis Obispo, California
All good feedback, thanks guys.
What's interesting is w/ the car sitting on my flat garage floor, I'll put a 24" L-shaped ruler vertically up against the side of the wheel's centerline. The distance(negative camber) between the top of the wheel & the L's vertical edge is 10mm...except for the left rear which was 9mm...which is right in line with this shop's aligment reading. But given this, the right front should have only measured @ 8-9mm too. Admittedly very unscientific...but interesting.
What's interesting is w/ the car sitting on my flat garage floor, I'll put a 24" L-shaped ruler vertically up against the side of the wheel's centerline. The distance(negative camber) between the top of the wheel & the L's vertical edge is 10mm...except for the left rear which was 9mm...which is right in line with this shop's aligment reading. But given this, the right front should have only measured @ 8-9mm too. Admittedly very unscientific...but interesting.
Last edited by Bedouin; May 4, 2012 at 02:19 PM.
