My jack kit solution for the C6
.Solution? A tire-plug kit and a jack kit. And this applies to both runflats and non-runflats. The jack kit is essential if you want to run non-runflats, and almost necessary with runflats. The trick to avoid any tire damage is NOT TO RUN the tire below 20 psi folks . As soon as you get the TPMS warning, start monitoring the pressure, and look for a convenient place to perform the patching job (a gas station is perfect, and you don't have to use your compressor). If close to 20 psi, you can always just air up the tire to get to the next town. This is obviously more important if you don't have runflats, but you don't want to ruin you runflat either. Anyway, here's what you need to be able to temporarily fix your own flats:
First, a jack kit. I used the one I bought for my M3 here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462
It's designed to use the rectangular BMW lifting pad many owners buy here, but since it's too bulky for a permanent installation IMO, I only bought one... along with 4 of the round ones, which are permanently attached to the car, but easily removable with the plastic prying tool I carry (see first pic, above the jacking pad). In addition, the rectangular ones look ugly since the slot on our frame is crooked, PLUS they can hit anywhere, due to being much taller.
The jack kit weighs exactly 11.8 lbs, and includes everything else you need: a long wrench that doubles as a torque wrench set at 90 ft/lbs, ratchet handle, a wheel chock, and a pair of gloves. Oh, I'd discard the chalk immediately, since it makes a mess. And you'd also have to buy the appropriate short, 6-point socket, since BMW uses a 17mm. I bought a 19mm one, that fits my Gorilla lugnut set. And if you use your seat a bit more forward than all the way back (like I do), the jack crams at the bottom of the seat (you'd figure out in what position
). If you use your seat all the way to the back, the jack kit fits vertically next to your seatback and rear panel. It's be visible when you open the door, but only you can see it. And it should be safe in an accident, since I don't think it can slide between seat and panel, but that'd be your call. I prefer at the bottom of the seat for obvious reasons (lower center of gravity, and super safe). Here are the pictures of the pad and jack (2), round jack pad installed, and both pads (right click on 'properties', and at the very top is the name of the file. The part number for each jacking pad is at the end):



NOTE: REMOVE the plastic pin pictured here and discard it folks. You'd have some serious trouble removing that thing if you forget
. 

Next, and equally important, is my radial tire patch kit of choice: the Stop'n Go. It doesn't use any glue, so it's not messy, and doesn't dry out. I used it for the first time in 7 years on my M3, and brought me home more than 300 miles away, at 85 mph sustained speeds. And all with the piece of mind and protection of TPMS and the stock full-size tire. The first time I got the TPMS light about 20 miles later, so had to repatch the tire again. Problem? I didn't ream the hole enough, so learn from my mistake. You need to ream that hole until you feel no real resistance from the ridial cords, so they don't sever the mushroom plug. Worked like a charm the second time. In fact, I left the plug 2 months until my new tires arrived, with no loss of air at all. Here's the kit, along with thicker gloves (jack kit includes some as well) and tire pressure gauge (I also put here the plastic trim tool pictured with the jack kit):

Next is the 3rd most important item: something to inflate the tire with. I chose a mini compressor from Griot's Garage. You don't want to skimp on this item folks, since no air means you're stranded. Remember the rear tires take quite a bit of volume, so a cheapo compressor can burn up before you're done. And it fits perfectly inside the left cubbie:

And now a picture with the tire repair kit on top of the compressor, along with a microfiber rag wrapped around a spray can of Plexus, which is an excellent product for removing crap from your paint, windshield, clear-bra, etc. I use it a lot on my motorcycle. I also put a commercial (black) trash bag that can be used as a mat (among other things), a Leatherman Wave tool (to remove nail, screw, or whatever punctured your tire), the rectangular jack pad, cargo net, and a gallon ziplock bag I carry when picking up fast food
. And I still have room to spare on the cubbie, for some more tools. Oh, and I have enough duct tape rolled on a wood rod (cut to size) to fix almost anything, stored inside the tire patch kit:
Hope this helps gang. Have a good one.
Last edited by JCtx; May 6, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
thanks in advance

I have the ContiComfort Kit compressor and supposedly sensor safe fix a flat from Tirerack. $79.
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=38
Seems like a quality device, fits behind the waterfall in my Vert. Luckily I haven't had to use it but I have used my plug kit. I have the cheapo Walmart plug kit and a pair a gloves and dykes.
My friend the mechanic told me the same thing re: plugs, you have to ream the hole well. He told me to use my battery drill with a bit a little slightly smaller than the plug to ream it out (I made it home to fix it) and that plug has worked for over year now.
And you are right about those large BMW pads...I had two on my car, now only one as it hit on something or the other. I just use my jack without one these days (I swap tires a lot for racing) and lift the car a side at a time to swap tires. Works fine for me.
That said I like your round pads, where did you get those?
.No case anymore, but looks a little bigger than mine, which is not a bad thing. It might fit in the cubbie too. Ask for dimensions, or just get something similar. And if you could post your results, it'd help others in their search
Hey Joe, happy to help. But first, I wouldn't buy that compressor if you cannot use it without the 'goop'. That's pretty much what my M3 had, and believe me, you'd need a new sensor. I'd leave the 'goop' as a last resort, but they're not that effective, especially if weather is hot; it just blows right out (ask any BMW owner). And forget anything more than 50 mph, even in cool temperatures. I'd treat that kit like a runflat: it'd get you to your destination if less than 50 miles away, and at less than 55 mph. Oh, and it'd be much more effective if jacking up the car, and placing the puncture at the bottom, rather than driving the car and hope the goop passes thru the puncture. If you can use the compressor normally, without turning the goop thing 90º, I'd definitely buy it. Looks pretty nice, and compact. You can buy the plug kit, and leave the goop as a last resort. In fact, I need to buy a can of that myself, as a last resort too (like if you have to get to your destination quickly, and it's not that far away).
Anyway, the place that I linked for the jack kit, sells those jacking pads too. And you can also try Bavauto.com, or any other BMW parts dealer. The part number for the lifting pads are these: ROUND=51711960752, and RECTANGULAR=51718268885. They cost the same. Avoid my mistake, and order 4 round and 1 rectangular
. Hope this helps folks.Oh, and forgot to say before if you drive with the seat all the way back, I'd put the jack behind (and under) the passenger seat, if possible. All it takes is a little forward and a bit higher up, which most women like anyway. Or just a little more forward and all the way to the floor. If my car was auto, I'd be all the way to the back, but with a clutch, I like to be able to depress the pedal to the stop (although I rarely do that while driving), for better pedal control. So that little bit forward (I have my seat all the way to the floor) adjustment was enough to slip the jack behind my seat. That's better, since the passenger seat has limited foot space; a problem for male passengers. And that POS of accordion plastic wouldn't hold even a small dog from slamming on the fuses without the seatbelt on (one more reason to demand it
). Hope everybody had a great weekend Last edited by JCtx; May 7, 2012 at 12:24 AM.
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http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...+compressor.do
Dimensions are...
http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Schematics/85P_dd.pdf
i measured and it will fit great, no problems. 9.13" x 3.19" x 5.63"
http://www.safetyseal.com/store/offroad.htm
I have found that the C4 jack kit works pretty well for lifting the C6- you can get them from junkyards pretty cheap I would think. I don't worry about a pad- the jacks lift the metal frame pretty well and I don't care if it scratches the steel frame bottom, but your bimmer jack pad looks pretty nice as a no-slip function.
. But seriously, none of those options would be safe for you or the car, since it can slip off the jack, ruining your rocker panels in the process. Then landing on the brakes, your foot, or worse. Without a safe way to lift the car, it's better to drive the runcraps to death, or just call roadside assistance. By the way, most folks use the rectangular jacking pads to prevent rocker damage by lifts or floor jacks, but they were primarily designed for roadside jacking safety; the vulnerable edges get damaged easily by lifts and floor jacks if not positioned carefully. The round pads were specifically designed for floor jacks and lifts, and that's why I leave them permanently in place. But they're easily removable if needed.
Last edited by JCtx; May 7, 2012 at 01:45 AM.

Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; May 8, 2012 at 01:33 AM.
I actually have a small scissor jack from Harbor Freight but I don't carry it around...maybe I would if you guys have a reason I haven't thought of so my question is genuine.
BTW if I traveled cross country like Hoxxoh I'd carry one of my GTO spares as a spare for use in remote locations.





I actually have a small scissor jack from Harbor Freight but I don't carry it around...maybe I would if you guys have a reason I haven't thought of so my question is genuine.
BTW if I traveled cross country like Hoxxoh I'd carry one of my GTO spares as a spare for use in remote locations.
I carried a GTO spare, jack, and tools on one of my shorter road trips (2500 miles) and recognized the hassle dealing with luggage space. Now I only carry a small compressor, credit cards, cell phone, and cash.
The compressor will only be used, if I need to add air to get to a place for repairs. If the leak is greater than the compressor will handle, then the cell phone summons help or cash gets me a ride to a place where the cell phone works and then the CC's take over for the larger costs.
With 99K currently showing and about 45K of that farther than 150 miles from home, I've only had one incident in the 50K+ miles while running non-runflats. That's where I hit a rock and blew out the sidewall (not repairable) in the mountains, 25 miles from the closest town. I only lost 3 hours of travel time, but got to meet some really nice people in exchange for the delay. I've had much, much longer delays at airports, surrounded by people constantly b!tching.

Dead alternators have left me stranded twice and each with days, not simply hours, of delays. I don't carry one of those either.
PS: This thing will lift the whole side of the car into the air if you want it to or not paying attention to just how high your going.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; May 8, 2012 at 09:30 PM.










...I always carry them along with a plug/compressor kit when I'm on 'non runflats' just in case. 




