Nitto Rrag Radial 345 30 19 would not hook up
#1
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Nitto Rrag Radial 345 30 19 would not hook up
Good Morning,
I picked up a set of Nitto Drag radials 345 30 19 for use on my corvette zr1 conversion. 630 rwhp. I have about 100 miles on them and used them at the track last night and just could not get them to hook up. Quite dangerous actually. Rather surprising as the reviews from other corvette owners are these things hook.
What psi should these be put at at the track? On the street I use 32 lbs and they seem to hook up reasonably well. I tried 20 at the track and Broke up all down the track and would not hook out the hole at all.
Any thought? Is there a mold release used that could cause this?
Best Regards,
I picked up a set of Nitto Drag radials 345 30 19 for use on my corvette zr1 conversion. 630 rwhp. I have about 100 miles on them and used them at the track last night and just could not get them to hook up. Quite dangerous actually. Rather surprising as the reviews from other corvette owners are these things hook.
What psi should these be put at at the track? On the street I use 32 lbs and they seem to hook up reasonably well. I tried 20 at the track and Broke up all down the track and would not hook out the hole at all.
Any thought? Is there a mold release used that could cause this?
Best Regards,
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Did you heat cycle them properly before going to the track? My buddy just bought a brand new set of Mickeys, and drove straight to the track. His tires were so shiny from the oils coming out of the sidewalls when they heated up.
In short, you need to heat cycle drag radials before going to the track with them. Heat cycling consists of bring them up to temp, then letting them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and let them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and then they should be ready to go.
In short, you need to heat cycle drag radials before going to the track with them. Heat cycling consists of bring them up to temp, then letting them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and let them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and then they should be ready to go.
#3
Burning Brakes
Did you heat cycle them properly before going to the track? My buddy just bought a brand new set of Mickeys, and drove straight to the track. His tires were so shiny from the oils coming out of the sidewalls when they heated up.
In short, you need to heat cycle drag radials before going to the track with them. Heat cycling consists of bring them up to temp, then letting them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and let them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and then they should be ready to go.
In short, you need to heat cycle drag radials before going to the track with them. Heat cycling consists of bring them up to temp, then letting them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and let them cool for 24 hours. Bring them up to temp again and then they should be ready to go.
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I've never heard of that for a Drag radial and I've been using DR's for 12 years. However, I have heard of that for road race compound tires.
OP, a lot of your tire pressures for the track are going to have multiple variables: launch technique, track prep, humidity in the air putting moisture on the track (if at night), weight transfer capabilities of your car, heat of the track, heat in the tire and of course air pressure in the tires. Most even run 1/2-1psi more in the right rear than the left rear.
Radial tires can be much more finicky than a bias-ply tire. But, once you get them figured out to what works for your car and your launch technique, its all fine-tuning from there.
-jeff
#4
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
The heat cycle I described was recommended to me by Spinmonster and after doin my own due diligence with what other people were doing, it all coincided.
Sure, if you just want a sticky tire that beats a street tire, you might not need to take the extra steps to make sure they're heat cycled properly. But if you're like me, and chasing every last .01 and .001, everything matters and I make sure to follow the recommend protocol.
Sure, if you just want a sticky tire that beats a street tire, you might not need to take the extra steps to make sure they're heat cycled properly. But if you're like me, and chasing every last .01 and .001, everything matters and I make sure to follow the recommend protocol.
#5
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don't know where you got the Nitto's, but I got mine from Discount Tires Direct, and they recommend a heat cycle. Of coarse they are happy to offer it for just $15 per tire.
I don't know if it is necessary, but I know once mine are heated up I don't have a problem. but then again, I don't have 630 RWHP either.
I don't know if it is necessary, but I know once mine are heated up I don't have a problem. but then again, I don't have 630 RWHP either.
#6
Is your tread 'peeling'? Almost looks like someone took a cheese grater to it?
I had a bad batch of nt05r's that I sent back, they went to **** in under 200 miles and wouldn't hold 560whp.
The replacements have lasted me thousands of miles, a few track days and still hook well when warm at 630whp.
I had a bad batch of nt05r's that I sent back, they went to **** in under 200 miles and wouldn't hold 560whp.
The replacements have lasted me thousands of miles, a few track days and still hook well when warm at 630whp.
#8
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How long of a burnout? How much smoke?
I've never heat-cycled a drag radial either and never had a problem and I've run 5 different sets from nitto, MT and BFG. That's not to say a heat-cycle isn't a good idea though, I've just never had problems hooking up in a car without doing it.
I've never heat-cycled a drag radial either and never had a problem and I've run 5 different sets from nitto, MT and BFG. That's not to say a heat-cycle isn't a good idea though, I've just never had problems hooking up in a car without doing it.
#9
Melting Slicks
You dont need to heat cycle the tires ,thats b.s .You should be hooking up very well given your h.p.Clean them when exiting the water until you feel them grabbing.Its that simple
#10
Race Director
with Justin, i have tried with many brands and sizes and if heat cycled before the track they hook with a short burnout first pass, if new it takes 5-6 passes of long burnouts the first day then long burnouts the whole life of the tire to hook
#11
Drifting
I go to the track pretty often and I can't remember seeing anyone get real traction from a 19" tire. I sure you could make it work if your setup was tweaked for it but what a nightmare. There is just no sidewall on a 19" tire. I can hook a 275-17 Hoosier like glue, 1.45sec 60' and run a low 10 with ease.
I have run a real ZR1 down the 1/4 mile and it was hopeless until the end of third gear.
I have run a real ZR1 down the 1/4 mile and it was hopeless until the end of third gear.
#12
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I go to the track pretty often and I can't remember seeing anyone get real traction from a 19" tire. I sure you could make it work if your setup was tweaked for it but what a nightmare. There is just no sidewall on a 19" tire. I can hook a 275-17 Hoosier like glue, 1.45sec 60' and run a low 10 with ease.
I have run a real ZR1 down the 1/4 mile and it was hopeless until the end of third gear.
I have run a real ZR1 down the 1/4 mile and it was hopeless until the end of third gear.
The 19" NT05Rs have gone 1.4s and plenty of people run them into the 1.6s
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St. Jude Donor '08
I run them and have over 50 passes on them with good results. Once I got the pressures and launch technique figured out, I was able to consistantly lay down 1.5x and low 1.6x short times. I usually run them at 16.5-17.5 PSI and they will hook if the track is prepped decently.
#15
I run them and have over 50 passes on them with good results. Once I got the pressures and launch technique figured out, I was able to consistantly lay down 1.5x and low 1.6x short times. I usually run them at 16.5-17.5 PSI and they will hook if the track is prepped decently.
Jeff
#16
Drifting
when I put my new DRs on late this spring I did a huge burn out on my way to work(on a closed course) and then parked in the air conditioned shop all day. When I went to the track that night I dead hooked to a 1.42-60' If I remember right. That same set of DRs netted two 1.32s friday MIR. These are 275-40-17s so it's not the same tire but that's the process I used.
#17
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Yes, just not directly
Also, just to clarify, a nitto 555 is a lot different than a 555R as well.
I run a 275 nitto 555R and have run them down to 1.60s and went 11.2s only limited by power. I know they'd easily take me into the 10s now that I have the blower on the car although I know they wouldn't hold all of the power.
Also, just to clarify, a nitto 555 is a lot different than a 555R as well.
I run a 275 nitto 555R and have run them down to 1.60s and went 11.2s only limited by power. I know they'd easily take me into the 10s now that I have the blower on the car although I know they wouldn't hold all of the power.
#19
Yes, just not directly
Also, just to clarify, a nitto 555 is a lot different than a 555R as well.
I run a 275 nitto 555R and have run them down to 1.60s and went 11.2s only limited by power. I know they'd easily take me into the 10s now that I have the blower on the car although I know they wouldn't hold all of the power.
Also, just to clarify, a nitto 555 is a lot different than a 555R as well.
I run a 275 nitto 555R and have run them down to 1.60s and went 11.2s only limited by power. I know they'd easily take me into the 10s now that I have the blower on the car although I know they wouldn't hold all of the power.
Last edited by Justasheet; 11-21-2012 at 09:49 AM.