Transmission cooler recommendation
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 75
From: Fairfield County, CT
Transmission cooler recommendation
I am considering one and am looking for recommendations.
I added the DeWitts rad with both EOC and TOC but a tranny seal leak caused trans temps go up 20-40 degrees while coolant and oil went down 30 and 20 degrees respectively. Saw DRM cooler for $1,300 before install but would prefer something less expensive. Any ideas?
Car is a 2010 GS, A6, Kumho XS tires, no R-compounds or slicks in the future as car is also a DD. Have ordered Amsoil ATF and some header type wrap for the lines. Fixing seal and adding better fluid and shielding will likely do the trick but considering cooler as well because I want to do this only once.
Thanks,
Terry O'
Also posted in Autocrossing & Roadracing forum
I added the DeWitts rad with both EOC and TOC but a tranny seal leak caused trans temps go up 20-40 degrees while coolant and oil went down 30 and 20 degrees respectively. Saw DRM cooler for $1,300 before install but would prefer something less expensive. Any ideas?
Car is a 2010 GS, A6, Kumho XS tires, no R-compounds or slicks in the future as car is also a DD. Have ordered Amsoil ATF and some header type wrap for the lines. Fixing seal and adding better fluid and shielding will likely do the trick but considering cooler as well because I want to do this only once.
Thanks,
Terry O'
Also posted in Autocrossing & Roadracing forum
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 27
From: Southampton NJ
I am considering one and am looking for recommendations.
I added the DeWitts rad with both EOC and TOC but a tranny seal leak caused trans temps go up 20-40 degrees while coolant and oil went down 30 and 20 degrees respectively. Saw DRM cooler for $1,300 before install but would prefer something less expensive. Any ideas?
Car is a 2010 GS, A6, Kumho XS tires, no R-compounds or slicks in the future as car is also a DD. Have ordered Amsoil ATF and some header type wrap for the lines. Fixing seal and adding better fluid and shielding will likely do the trick but considering cooler as well because I want to do this only once.
Thanks,
Terry O'
Also posted in Autocrossing & Roadracing forum
I added the DeWitts rad with both EOC and TOC but a tranny seal leak caused trans temps go up 20-40 degrees while coolant and oil went down 30 and 20 degrees respectively. Saw DRM cooler for $1,300 before install but would prefer something less expensive. Any ideas?
Car is a 2010 GS, A6, Kumho XS tires, no R-compounds or slicks in the future as car is also a DD. Have ordered Amsoil ATF and some header type wrap for the lines. Fixing seal and adding better fluid and shielding will likely do the trick but considering cooler as well because I want to do this only once.
Thanks,
Terry O'
Also posted in Autocrossing & Roadracing forum
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 228
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From: Peoria AZ
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,231
Likes: 451
From: Maryland
You may get by with the one aftermarket cooler but why not use the radiator located trans cooler you already have for even more capacity. 
PS: Can't hurt
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; May 23, 2012 at 01:41 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,231
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From: Maryland
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 27
From: Southampton NJ
If you want the most cooling capacity run the aftermarket cooler in series with the stock trans cooler i.e. trans fluid through stock cooler to start the cooling process than through the aftermarket cooler and back to the trans.
You may get by with the one aftermarket cooler but why not use the radiator located trans cooler you already have for even more capacity.
PS: Can't hurt
You may get by with the one aftermarket cooler but why not use the radiator located trans cooler you already have for even more capacity. PS: Can't hurt
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Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Peoria AZ
If you want the most cooling capacity run the aftermarket cooler in series with the stock trans cooler i.e. trans fluid through stock cooler to start the cooling process than through the aftermarket cooler and back to the trans.
You may get by with the one aftermarket cooler but why not use the radiator located trans cooler you already have for even more capacity.
PS: Can't hurt
You may get by with the one aftermarket cooler but why not use the radiator located trans cooler you already have for even more capacity. PS: Can't hurt
I'd like to find a way to control it, so it would automatically hold temps in the 160-180 range. Maybe running through the radiator first will heat it enough that the Hayden won't cool it too much.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,231
Likes: 451
From: Maryland
I'm actually considering doing just the opposite. In 110 degree weather here in Phoenix, I have to drive 20 minutes in traffic with my 3600 converter just to get trans temps above 150. On the freeway with the converter locked it never gets up to working temps.
I'd like to find a way to control it, so it would automatically hold temps in the 160-180 range. Maybe running through the radiator first will heat it enough that the Hayden won't cool it too much.
I'd like to find a way to control it, so it would automatically hold temps in the 160-180 range. Maybe running through the radiator first will heat it enough that the Hayden won't cool it too much.
If you think about it, running the fluid through both coolers should help to stabilize both engine and trans temps better. Stability means reliability and/or a more consistence repeatable performance.
PS: But if the $hit ever hits the fan
you will still have more cooling capacity with two coolers than just the one to keep the temp out of the red zone. Is this a Goldy Locks story or what??? 
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; May 23, 2012 at 12:44 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,022
Likes: 2,715
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
I've also wondered about the idea of bypassing the radiator, or not (my car is totally stock now).
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
If the cooler with its own fan or not is large enough to keep the trans temp to low, say less than 150 than running it through the stock cooler will warm the fluid and "maybe" help lower the water temp/engine temp also.
If you think about it, running the fluid through both coolers should help to stabilize both engine and trans temps better. Stability means reliability and/or a more consistence repeatable performance.
PS: But if the $hit ever hits the fan you will still have more cooling capacity with two coolers than just the one to keep the temp out of the red zone.
If you think about it, running the fluid through both coolers should help to stabilize both engine and trans temps better. Stability means reliability and/or a more consistence repeatable performance.
PS: But if the $hit ever hits the fan
you will still have more cooling capacity with two coolers than just the one to keep the temp out of the red zone.
I was originally trying to take some load off the radiator, but it appears like the tranny was helping cool the engine instead of just itself. I understand why the stock arrangement works well for most circumstances, but the high stall converter heat complicates finding the new happy operating range.
I'm not using a dedicated fan on the cooler, but I do have it mounted in a non-traditional method and location.
It makes me wonder about a stacked plate design for engine coolant. Hmmm.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
From: Plano TX
I was originally trying to take some load off the radiator, but it appears like the tranny was helping cool the engine instead of just itself. I understand why the stock arrangement works well for most circumstances, but the high stall converter heat complicates finding the new happy operating range.
I'm not using a dedicated fan on the cooler, but I do have it mounted in a non-traditional method and location.
It makes me wonder about a stacked plate design for engine coolant. Hmmm.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I've also wondered about the idea of bypassing the radiator, or not (my car is totally stock now).
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
I'd like to be able to control it to remain in the 160-180 range. So far, I have no problem keeping it cool, but getting warm without being too hot is my issue. The variables of ambiant air temps, air flow, gear selection, and transmission load, make it difficult. An internal transmission thermostat would solve the problem, but at this point I'm just glad to know what temperatures exist.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
I've also wondered about the idea of bypassing the radiator, or not (my car is totally stock now).
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
Part of the problem is, we don't know what trans temp is best.
Anything over 230 is definitely warmer than desired, but what about min temp?
I'm guessing that a constant 190' would be close to optimum, and anything less than 150' is getting too cool. But those are just semi-educated guesses.
Ive been toying with the idea of running 2 z06 oil coolers (one for the engine and one for trans)and putting the trans one behind the engine oil cooler to help with warmup while having it also tied to the radiator trans "cooler"/warmer. This should help cool the trans when it gets hot, while keeping it warm in cooler climates
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
add the fan, I did not and I am going back and adding it even in 90 degree weather when I am driving 60 it will cool never over 171 even with some pulls but in stop and go traffic you will want the cooler. I run a 3500 stall and trust me I want the fan... The cooler the tranny stays the longer it will live you and always turn the fan on and off and it will be great for track days to cool it down in between runs.
Track days are a major issue. I sit in the staging lane in gear, hoping to get up to 140+ before a pass.
If you've ever gone WOT through the gears with the A6 under 130 degrees, you'll know the problem.
I'd put tape over the cooler to stop some airflow, but that creates engine coolant issues.
I'm going to try routing fluid through the radiator, both before and after the cooler to see what works best.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,022
Likes: 2,715
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
My problem is not cooling, it's not being able to get up to a normal operating temperature.
Track days are a major issue. I sit in the staging lane in gear, hoping to get up to 140+ before a pass.
If you've ever gone WOT through the gears with the A6 under 130 degrees, you'll know the problem.
I'd put tape over the cooler to stop some airflow, but that creates engine coolant issues.
I'm going to try routing fluid through the radiator, both before and after the cooler to see what works best.
Track days are a major issue. I sit in the staging lane in gear, hoping to get up to 140+ before a pass.
If you've ever gone WOT through the gears with the A6 under 130 degrees, you'll know the problem.
I'd put tape over the cooler to stop some airflow, but that creates engine coolant issues.
I'm going to try routing fluid through the radiator, both before and after the cooler to see what works best.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,022
Likes: 2,715
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
My problem is not cooling, it's not being able to get up to a normal operating temperature.
Track days are a major issue. I sit in the staging lane in gear, hoping to get up to 140+ before a pass.
If you've ever gone WOT through the gears with the A6 under 130 degrees, you'll know the problem.
I'd put tape over the cooler to stop some airflow, but that creates engine coolant issues.
I'm going to try routing fluid through the radiator, both before and after the cooler to see what works best.
Track days are a major issue. I sit in the staging lane in gear, hoping to get up to 140+ before a pass.
If you've ever gone WOT through the gears with the A6 under 130 degrees, you'll know the problem.
I'd put tape over the cooler to stop some airflow, but that creates engine coolant issues.
I'm going to try routing fluid through the radiator, both before and after the cooler to see what works best.
And your situation will be different from mine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 967
Likes: 1
I'm actually considering doing just the opposite. In 110 degree weather here in Phoenix, I have to drive 20 minutes in traffic with my 3600 converter just to get trans temps above 150. On the freeway with the converter locked it never gets up to working temps.
I'd like to find a way to control it, so it would automatically hold temps in the 160-180 range. Maybe running through the radiator first will heat it enough that the Hayden won't cool it too much.
I'd like to find a way to control it, so it would automatically hold temps in the 160-180 range. Maybe running through the radiator first will heat it enough that the Hayden won't cool it too much.
perhaps that helps