Considering there have been some questions as to what jacks people use here I decided to post some info on my new toy:


Background: Id been using the typical craftsman jack for roughly 6 or 7 years prior to it giving up on me and have been waiting to get a new one. For me the issue was availability (i dont like waiting for anything), reliability, functionality, and cost.

Finding a decent jack that was available locally was going to be a pain. I could have went with another craftsman, but wanted to try something new.
After several months of having to work on cars with a scissors jack , I finally gave in and decided to purchase a proper piece of equipment.

I found this the Torin t84025 also known as the Duralast t84025.



Pricing and availability:
price ranges from 129 at autozone to 250 at sears

This model can be found at most auto parts stores, costco, walmart, and some hardware stores.


Performance and build/quality:
Well it works - not much else to it.

The thing didnt have anything to assemble aside from the handle and looked pretty solid. The jacking pad lifts off and there is even an adapter that can be added for jacking up cross members.

The handle does come with a thin padding section to help with preventing door dings - it could be a bit thicker like the sears one though.

Weight wasnt too bad compared to the all aluminum sears jack. I expected the steel/ aluminum construction to be really heavy but it was reasonable.

This unit is also much beefier or "heavy duty" compared to the craftsman one. Even the piston assembly is nicer - hopefully Ill get teh same or more use out of this one.

Overall this was a good buy for 130 bucks

 

I doubt it fits under the front without ramps, right? Looks like it fits under the rear w/out them, though. My Jeg's jack will get the rear, but I need ramps for the front.

 

nope only jacks with that kind of clearance are internet/mail order and roughly 2x as much (and up). However it does fit under the rocker panels with a decent amount of space and didnt require any pucks or wood blocks

 

NOTHING fits under the front without at least 2x6s man . Cross-member is too deep, the 'spoiler' ahead of the wheels too damn low. And if you have the front lip (I do on my GS), it's in the way of even the most shallow jack frames. Since the cross-member is so deep, you have to slide the entire jack under the car. Even my super low racing jack might not reach the cross-member with just one 2x6 without bending the crap out of the spoiler/lip. Was going to find out soon, but next time I need to lift the car, decided to lift it with 2 jacks from the front jacking pads (at the same time, to avoid twist), and just slide ramps or jack stands. The rear I lift it from the middle and put jack stands at the appropriate places right away. I was going to lift the front the same way. I wouldn't leave the car jacked up for days, but it's plenty strong for the few seconds it takes to lift the car and put jack stands or ramps. And without those contraptions some folks here use, there's plenty more clearance.

By the way, jack looks good man. I like how light my racing jack is, but they have limited use due to their low weight limit and low height (a compromise for being so low to the ground and aluminum construction). Take care.

 

Nice jack. I have one that looks similar but is aluminum. It's only a 1 1/2 ton jack so I do not use it to jack one end of the car (just one corner at a time on the side). For jacking one end, I use a 3-ton steel jack. I like a BIG safety margin having had a small jack drop a car one time(cylinder ballooned).

I also will not jack off the aluminum cross members (per the instructins in the FSM). I always use a cross-beam extender to jack off the cross-menber attachment points to the frame. This means I always have to raise the car on small ramps before jacking it up.

I bought my car used, and looking at the warranty claims, there was a claim for a new rear cross-member. I wonder why...............