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I just ordered the MGW short throw w/ chrome gripper **** for my C6 and have done a search here in the forums and have noticed that vibrations have occured and some folks have had no issues. So the question is for those of you who have this installed , are there any "oh by the ways" that you can give me before I begin to take apart the center console on my regular C6? I always know that sometimes a tool not mentioned in the install instructions can be handy or a shortcut is known by someone who has done this a few times! I expect my shifter to arrive this friday or monday...
I purchased my mgw off the forums used. the previous user said there was a vibration on hard accelration for him. I put it in mind..and no issues yet. I did put a huge glob of grease on the end. I also trimmed the stock dust boot to where it has a very tight fit. not sure if that helps..but figured it would help dampin any vibrations. The main issue from my research seems to be from the base block or whatever it is called that the shifter connects to. it's flimsy and not as stout as it should be. all short throws have a chance of rattling around. it has something to do with the dynamics of the sound and size change. or some other science bs.
I just ordered the MGW short throw w/ chrome gripper **** for my C6 and have done a search here in the forums and have noticed that vibrations have occured and some folks have had no issues. So the question is for those of you who have this installed , are there any "oh by the ways" that you can give me before I begin to take apart the center console on my regular C6? I always know that sometimes a tool not mentioned in the install instructions can be handy or a shortcut is known by someone who has done this a few times! I expect my shifter to arrive this friday or monday...
One trick I have found with pulling the console off is that you don't need to undo the cigarette lighter connector (which is a real PITA.)
Undo all the other connectors (some are not easy but are doable - be patient.) Now wrap the console in an old towel or some such - the plastic edges are sharp and will happily make cut marks in things like leather and dashboards ) so don't leave any of the thing sticking out. Once the console is protected, rotate the console piece over into the passenger side footwell using the wire to the lighter as the limiting factor. You can do all the necessary shifter work like this and never have to go nuts trying to deal with the &%#@$! lighter connection.
I purchased my mgw off the forums used. the previous user said there was a vibration on hard accelration for him. I put it in mind..and no issues yet. I did put a huge glob of grease on the end. I also trimmed the stock dust boot to where it has a very tight fit. not sure if that helps..but figured it would help dampin any vibrations. The main issue from my research seems to be from the base block or whatever it is called that the shifter connects to. it's flimsy and not as stout as it should be. all short throws have a chance of rattling around. it has something to do with the dynamics of the sound and size change. or some other science bs.
In many cases, simply replacing the factory rubber bushings between the shifter box and the torque tube will eliminate the vibration. That's what I did 2 years ago and it fixed it. It has nothing to do with any of the aftermarket shifters. I tried the solid bushings that cam with the B&M shifter and it made it worse. The early Z06 had shifter boxes that were bolted solid to the torque tube (no rubber) and they rattled badly. The only fix was to replace it with a stock shifter box that has the rubber bushings.
ZIP sells harder polyurethane bushings but if you really want to eliminate the vibration, I recommend the rubber bushings which are bigger and thicker.
You can't get the rubber bushings from GM. You have to buy replacement bushings from a number of vendors such as Corvette Central, West Coast Corvette, or flea bay.
If your car is several years old and has more than about 20K miles on it, you should go ahead and buy a new shifter box to install at the same time as you do the MGW. The shifter box rubber mount bushings as well as the rubber bushings that the shifter rod moves back and forth thru usually will shred over time due to heat cycles. This will cause slop in the box and creates vibration issues with the MGW. I had those issues with my MGW install and had to go back a few weeks later and do the install all over again, this time with a new box. A new box is only about $150 and is well woth the investment, especially since you already have spent $250 or so on the MGW. Plus, who wants to do the job twice? Call the owner of MGW and ask him if you don't believe me. He recommends changing out the box when installing the shifter.
If your car is several years old and has more than about 20K miles on it, you should go ahead and buy a new shifter box to install at the same time as you do the MGW. The shifter box rubber mount bushings as well as the rubber bushings that the shifter rod moves back and forth thru usually will shred over time due to heat cycles. This will cause slop in the box and creates vibration issues with the MGW. I had those issues with my MGW install and had to go back a few weeks later and do the install all over again, this time with a new box. A new box is only about $150 and is well woth the investment, especially since you already have spent $250 or so on the MGW. Plus, who wants to do the job twice? Call the owner of MGW and ask him if you don't believe me. He recommends changing out the box when installing the shifter.
I've only had to replace the rubber bushing between the shifter box and torque tube. The upgraded rubber bushings only cost $20 vs. $150 for the whole box that still has crappy OEM bushings. I don't see the need to replace the whole shifter box.
FYI on removing the lighter plug-in...this is actually easy & you'll just use a large paper clip. Search for a small hole in the edge of the round lighter housing (use your finger 'cuz you can't easily see it) where the tiny tab of the lighter portrudes, & you only need to depress this lightly to release it. Push on this tab w/ the paper clip (thus pushing the lighter out of the housing) & that should push the lighter out of its housing easily.
Oh here is a tip don't use a metal screw driver to try and find out what to poke to disconnect the cig lighter. I arched mine blowing the fuse... Thing is a pain to replace that fuse
tip 2: put a towel on your passanger seat. I bout poked a hole in mine trying to get that side trim off. it's sharp!
tip 3: I took coco butter Vasoline around the edges of of the dash, and any points that they dash made a connection. that cheap plastic pops, creaks, etc. The vasoline does 3 things, 1 lubricates, and 2 smells nice 3 girlfriends love you to rub their feet with it.
I've only had to replace the rubber bushing between the shifter box and torque tube. The upgraded rubber bushings only cost $20 vs. $150 for the whole box that still has crappy OEM bushings. I don't see the need to replace the whole shifter box.
You would if you saw the shredded rubber bushing inside the aft end of the box where the shift rod passes thru (as mine was) and is pretty common per owner of MGW after three or four years of use.
If your car is several years old and has more than about 20K miles on it, you should go ahead and buy a new shifter box to install at the same time as you do the MGW.
You would if you saw the shredded rubber bushing inside the aft end of the box where the shift rod passes thru (as mine was) and is pretty common per owner of MGW after three or four years of use.
I completely disassembled a few shifter boxes and the only rubber near there I noticed is the rubber seal that goes on the outside of the box that fits around the input shaft. It is way too small to do any vibration damping.
You had rubber inside the box? On the boxes I worked on, I did not see any rubber inside the box near or around the input shaft.